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Egyptian lotus
Egyptian lotus
Egyptian lotus
Egyptian lotus
Egyptian lotus
Egyptian lotus
Egyptian lotus
Nymphaea nouchali var. caerulea
Also known as : Blue lotus, Frog's pulpit, Blue Egyptian lotus, Sacred blue lily of the Nile, Sacred blue lily
The egyptian lotus (Nymphaea nouchali var. caerulea) is an aquatic plant native to Africa. Showy blue flowers bloom in summer amid wide, floating leaves. The roots anchor into the mud of the pond floor below. They can also be planted in backyard ponds or wide pots. Many species of fish appreciate the shade these floating plants provide.
Hardiness Zones
Hardiness Zones
4 to 9
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care guide

Care Guide for Egyptian lotus

Soil Care
Soil Care
Slightly acidic, Slightly alkaline
Details on Soil Care Soil Care
What Are the Lighting Requirements for Egyptian lotus?
What Are the Lighting Requirements for Egyptian lotus?
Full sun, Partial sun
Details on Sunlight Requirements What Are the Lighting Requirements for Egyptian lotus?
What is the Ideal Temperature Range for Egyptian lotus?
What is the Ideal Temperature Range for Egyptian lotus?
4 to 9
Details on Temperature What is the Ideal Temperature Range for Egyptian lotus?
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Egyptian lotus
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Questions About Egyptian lotus

Pruning Pruning Pruning
Sunlight Sunlight Sunlight
Temperature Temperature Temperature
Do I need to prune my Egyptian lotus?
Far from damaging the plant, regular pruning will actually encourage Egyptian lotus to produce more blooms. There are two primary forms of pruning for Egyptian lotus. The first is deadheading, which is the gardening term for removing spent flower heads once they start to wither. This concentrates the nutrients for the other flowers and allows the plant to flower better. The final process for pruning Egyptian lotus is the removal of yellow and diseased leaves, which increases plant ventilation and light penetration and facilitates plant growth. When nature runs its course, Egyptian lotus will bloom once, produce seed heads, and attempt to reproduce for the rest of the year. But, by consistently removing flower heads before they go to seed, you encourage the plant to continue producing more blooms for a longer flowering time. When the plant starts to wilt during the full, you should cut off the wilted part above the soil as well.
Read More more
When is the best time to prune my Egyptian lotus?
There are two primary forms of pruning for Egyptian lotus. The first is deadheading, which is the gardening term for removing spent flower heads once they start to wither. This concentrates the nutrients for the other flowers and allows the plant to flower better. The final process for pruning Egyptian lotus is the removal of yellow and diseased leaves, which increases plant ventilation and light penetration and facilitates plant growth. Since Egyptian lotus requires two types of pruning, you’ll be trimming your plants throughout the growing season. Pinching is most effective in the early spring before the plant develops any flower buds. Removal of yellowing or diseased leaves can be done at any time during the growing season. When nature runs its course, Egyptian lotus will bloom once, produce seed heads, and attempt to reproduce for the rest of the year. But, by consistently removing flower heads before they go to seed, you encourage the plant to continue producing more blooms for a longer flowering time. Finally, deadheading takes place as soon as the plants are producing full flower heads. Expect to take off spent blossoms from mid-summer through the first frosts of fall. When the plant starts to wilt during the full, you should cut off the wilted part above the soil as well.
Read More more
What tools should I prepare for pruning my Egyptian lotus?
Egyptian lotus doesn’t take much special equipment for pruning. A basic pair of scissors or garden shears should do the trick. It’s a good idea to ensure they are clean before use—you can soak them for thirty minutes in a solution of one part bleach diluted in nine parts water. This reduces the risk of spreading disease lingering on contaminated equipment into your flower garden. Some gardeners avoid using tools altogether and merely pinch off the blossoms with their fingertips. That can be a faster technique, but you run a larger risk of bruising the plant stems or accidentally pulling them out of the ground completely.
Read More more
Are there any instructions for pruning my Egyptian lotus?
Here’s an overview of pruning instructions for Egyptian lotus based on which of the two types you’re completing. By completing these two types of pruning over the lifespan of your Egyptian lotus, you’ll encourage them to produce bigger, better flowers for far longer than the plants would otherwise. It only takes a few minutes to complete each step of the pruning process, and you’ll reap the rewards of your efforts for weeks to come. Deadheading Deadheading is a fast, easy way to refresh your garden by removing old flowers and providing space for new ones to take their place. You can use your fingers to pop off old flower heads as soon as they look tired, although you’re less likely to damage the plant if you use shears instead. When deadheading, make sure you cut well below the flower so that you aren’t left with a long, flowerless stem sticking out in your garden bed. Instead, cut the stem to just above the point where the side stem joins the main plant. Remove yellow and diseased leaves, this increases the ventilation and light penetration of the plant and facilitates its growth. When pruning, the leaves need to be trimmed off together with the petiole. It is best to use sterilised scissors to cut them off. Note: It’s a good idea to ensure scissors or garden shears are clean before use—you can soak them for thirty minutes in a solution of one part bleach diluted in nine parts water. This reduces the risk of spreading disease lingering on contaminated equipment into your flower garden.
Read More more
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plant_info

Key Facts About Egyptian lotus

Attributes of Egyptian lotus

Lifespan
Perennial
Plant Type
Herb
Bloom Time
Spring, Summer
Plant Height
30 cm to 60 cm
Spread
50 cm to 2 m
Flower Size
15 cm to 20 cm
Flower Color
Pink
Purple
Blue
Leaf type
Semi-evergreen

Scientific Classification of Egyptian lotus

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pests

Common Pests & Diseases About Egyptian lotus

Common issues for Egyptian lotus based on 10 million real cases
Brown spot
Brown spot Brown spot
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Black spot
Black spot Black spot
Black spot
Infection by the black spot pathogen causes black spots or patches to appear on leaves.
Solutions: Some steps to take to address black spot include: Prune away any infected leaves, cleaning the pruners between plants with a 10% bleach solution so that the fungus does not spread to healthy leaves. Don't compost pruned plant parts as the spores can linger in the soil for a long period of time - instead, dispose of them in the trash. Use an approved fungicide such as Trifloxystrobin, Chlorothalonil, Maneb, or Myclobutanil. Use a spreader in the fungicide spray to ensure better coverage.
Caterpillars
Caterpillars Caterpillars
Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Solutions: Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers. For severe cases: Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects. Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans. Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps. For less severe cases: Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water. Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.
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Brown spot
plant poor
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
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Black spot
plant poor
Black spot
Infection by the black spot pathogen causes black spots or patches to appear on leaves.
Overview
Overview
Black spot is a fungus that largely attacks leaves on a variety of ornamental plants, leaving them covered in dark spots ringed with yellow, and eventually killing them. The fungus is often simply unsightly, but if it infects the whole plant it can interfere with photosynthesis by killing too many leaves. Because of this, it is important to be aware of the best methods for preventing and treating this diseases should it occur in the garden.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Here are a few of the most common symptoms of black spot:
  • The plant has developed small black spots along the leaves.
  • These spots be small, circular, and clustered together, or they may have a splotchy appearance and take up large portions of the leaves.
  • The fungus may also affect plant canes, where lesions start purple and then turn black.
  • The plant may suffer premature leaf drop.
Though most forms of black spot fungus pose little risk to a plant's overall health, many gardeners find them unsightly. Severe cases can also weaken a plant, so it becomes more susceptible to other pathogens and diseases.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Black spot is spread by various types of fungi, which differ slightly depending on whether they are in their sexual or asexual stages.
The fungal spores linger over the winter in fallen leaves and lesions on canes. In the spring, the spores are splashed up onto the leaves, causing infection within seven hours of moisture and when temperatures range between 24 to 29 ℃ with a high relative humidity.
In just two weeks, thousands of additional spores are produced, making it easy for the disease to infect nearby healthy plants as well.
There are several factors that could make a plant more likely to suffer a black spot infection. Here are some of the most common:
  • Exposure to infected plants or mulch (the fungus overwinters on dead leaves)
  • Weakening from physical damage, pest infestation or other infections.
  • Increased periods of wet, humid, warm weather – or exposure to overhead watering
  • Plants growing too close together
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Caterpillars
plant poor
Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Overview
Overview
Caterpillars can cause problems for home gardeners. If not managed, these insects can defoliate a plant in just a matter of days. However, home gardeners face a challenge because these caterpillars eventually turn into beautiful butterflies and moths, which are important for pollination and the general ecosystem.
There are thousands of different species of caterpillars and many will only target certain plants. If caterpillars are posing a problem, they can be removed by hand, or gardeners can use insect-proof netting to protect their valuable plants.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Caterpillars are the larvae of butterflies and moths. During the warmer months, butterflies and moths that visit gardens will lay their eggs on the underside of leaves.
When the tiny eggs hatch, the young larvae emerge and start feeding on the leaves of the plant. Depending on how many larvae have hatched, they can easily defoliate the plant in a very short period of time. Caterpillars will shed their skin as they grow, around 4 or 5 times during this feeding cycle.
Symptoms of caterpillars eating plants appear as holes in the leaves. The edges of the leaves may be eaten away as well, and flowers can be affected as well.
Some are easy to see, but others need to be searched for. This is because their bodies are often camouflaged to look like part of the plant. Gardeners need to look carefully along the stems of the plant as well as under the leaves. Also, look for tiny white, yellow, or brown eggs that can be found in groups on the underside of leaves.
Once the caterpillar is fully grown, it transforms into a pupa or chrysalis. Then, after a period of time that varies according to the species, a butterfly or moth will emerge from the pupa and the cycle begins again.
Solutions
Solutions
Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers.
For severe cases:
  1. Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects.
  2. Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans.
  3. Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps.
For less severe cases:
  1. Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water.
  2. Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.
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distribution

Distribution of Egyptian lotus

Habitat of Egyptian lotus

Lakes
Northern Hemisphere
South Hemisphere

Distribution Map of Egyptian lotus

distribution map
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
habit
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More Info on Egyptian Lotus Growth and Care

Basic Care Guide
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Lighting
Full sun
The egyptian lotus thrives under extensive sun exposure, crucial for its robust growth. Its native environment is abundant in sun, correlating to its sunlight preference. When sunlight is moderately present, it manages to survive too. However, too much or too little can hinder flowering and may lead to an overall unhealthy plant.
Best Sunlight Practices
Temperature
-25 38 ℃
Egyptian lotus thrives in temperate environments where temperatures average between 41 to 95 °F (5 to 35 ℃). A native to regions with moderate climates, it adjusts best with incremental temperature changes across seasons. Avoid extreme temperatures for optimal growth.
Temp for Healthy Growth
Transplant
2-3 feet
The best time to transplant egyptian lotus is during the early growth phase of S1-S3, or 'spring to early summer', as it favours root development. Choose a sunny, sheltered location and ensure the plant has ample room for growth. Start gradually, as drastic changes may stress egyptian lotus.
Transplant Techniques
Feng shui direction
North
The egyptian lotus is harmonious with the North facing direction due to its water origins. In Feng Shui, North is associated with the water element. Since this plant grows in water environments, it naturally amplifies the water energy, nurturing balance and serenity. However, each setting's unique energy should be taken into account for the best results.
Fengshui Details
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Plants Related to Egyptian lotus

Maize
Maize
Maize (Zea mays) is a well known domesticated cereal grain first domesticated in Mexico. In much of the world it is also called corn. Worldwide cultivation of maize surpasses other prominent grains like wheat and rice. Maize must be planted in the spring due to its intolerance for cold weather.
Lentil
Lentil
The lentil (*Lens culinaris*) is a bushy herbaceous plant that can grow to be 30 to 76 cm tall. Lentils are highly valued for their taste and nutritional value. This plant grows in temperate and subtropical regions throughout the world. It prefers sandy soil. Lentil crops can be harvested within 120 days of planting. It is a beneficial plant for crop rotation in farms and gardens because it is a nitrogen-fixer and will improve the soil where it is planted.
Lentil
Lentil
Lentil has pinnate leaves, small inconspicuous white flowers, and small flattened pods. Lentil contains four species of small, erect or climbing herbs.
Goldenrod
Goldenrod
Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea) is a perennial with golden yellow flowers. It is often considered a common allergen, but this plant produces almost no pollen. Goldenrod is used in landscaping for dry, full-sun locations, and to attract butterflies and bees.
Cottonwood
Cottonwood
Endemic to New Zealand, cottonwood (Ozothamnus leptophyllus) is a species of shrub that grows well in dry, open areas, where it can quickly reach a height of over 1.8 m. It has gold and green foliage and produces large clusters of fragrant flowers. Cottonwood is the host species for Homoeosoma anaspila, a species of moth that is also endemic to New Zealand.
Chinese money plant
Chinese money plant
The chinese money plant makes a striking visual display as a houseplant with its large, circular, and shiny, leaves, which can have a diameter of over 15 cm. Although the plant does produce a small white flower, the main focus is the unique and showy leaves.
Cape jasmine
Cape jasmine
Gardenia jasminoides is an evergreen shrub with unique, glossy evergreen leaves and stunning flowers. The sophisticated, matte white flowers are often used in bouquets. The exceptional beauty of this ornamental plant has made it a popular and highly appreciated plant amongst gardeners and horticulturalists.
Golden pothos
Golden pothos
The golden pothos (Epipremnum aureum) is a popular houseplant that is commonly seen in Australia, Asia, and the West Indies. It goes by many nicknames, including "devil's ivy", because it is so hard to kill and can even grow in low light conditions. Golden pothos has poisonous sap, so it should be kept away from pets and children.
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Egyptian lotus
Egyptian lotus
Egyptian lotus
Egyptian lotus
Egyptian lotus
Egyptian lotus
Egyptian lotus
Nymphaea nouchali var. caerulea
Also known as: Blue lotus, Frog's pulpit, Blue Egyptian lotus, Sacred blue lily of the Nile, Sacred blue lily
The egyptian lotus (Nymphaea nouchali var. caerulea) is an aquatic plant native to Africa. Showy blue flowers bloom in summer amid wide, floating leaves. The roots anchor into the mud of the pond floor below. They can also be planted in backyard ponds or wide pots. Many species of fish appreciate the shade these floating plants provide.
Hardiness Zones
Hardiness Zones
4 to 9
more
care guide

Care Guide for Egyptian lotus

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Questions About Egyptian lotus

Pruning Pruning Pruning
Sunlight Sunlight Sunlight
Temperature Temperature Temperature
Do I need to prune my Egyptian lotus?
more
When is the best time to prune my Egyptian lotus?
more
What tools should I prepare for pruning my Egyptian lotus?
more
Are there any instructions for pruning my Egyptian lotus?
more
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plant_info

Key Facts About Egyptian lotus

Attributes of Egyptian lotus

Lifespan
Perennial
Plant Type
Herb
Bloom Time
Spring, Summer
Plant Height
30 cm to 60 cm
Spread
50 cm to 2 m
Flower Size
15 cm to 20 cm
Flower Color
Pink
Purple
Blue
Leaf type
Semi-evergreen
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Scientific Classification of Egyptian lotus

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pests

Common Pests & Diseases About Egyptian lotus

Common issues for Egyptian lotus based on 10 million real cases
Brown spot
Brown spot Brown spot Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Learn More About the Brown spot more
Black spot
Black spot Black spot Black spot
Infection by the black spot pathogen causes black spots or patches to appear on leaves.
Solutions: Some steps to take to address black spot include: Prune away any infected leaves, cleaning the pruners between plants with a 10% bleach solution so that the fungus does not spread to healthy leaves. Don't compost pruned plant parts as the spores can linger in the soil for a long period of time - instead, dispose of them in the trash. Use an approved fungicide such as Trifloxystrobin, Chlorothalonil, Maneb, or Myclobutanil. Use a spreader in the fungicide spray to ensure better coverage.
Learn More About the Black spot more
Caterpillars
Caterpillars Caterpillars Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Solutions: Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers. For severe cases: Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects. Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans. Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps. For less severe cases: Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water. Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.
Learn More About the Caterpillars more
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Brown spot
plant poor
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
  1. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
  2. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
  3. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
  • Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
  • Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
  • Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
  • Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
  • Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
  • Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
  • Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Black spot
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Black spot
Infection by the black spot pathogen causes black spots or patches to appear on leaves.
Overview
Overview
Black spot is a fungus that largely attacks leaves on a variety of ornamental plants, leaving them covered in dark spots ringed with yellow, and eventually killing them. The fungus is often simply unsightly, but if it infects the whole plant it can interfere with photosynthesis by killing too many leaves. Because of this, it is important to be aware of the best methods for preventing and treating this diseases should it occur in the garden.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Here are a few of the most common symptoms of black spot:
  • The plant has developed small black spots along the leaves.
  • These spots be small, circular, and clustered together, or they may have a splotchy appearance and take up large portions of the leaves.
  • The fungus may also affect plant canes, where lesions start purple and then turn black.
  • The plant may suffer premature leaf drop.
Though most forms of black spot fungus pose little risk to a plant's overall health, many gardeners find them unsightly. Severe cases can also weaken a plant, so it becomes more susceptible to other pathogens and diseases.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Black spot is spread by various types of fungi, which differ slightly depending on whether they are in their sexual or asexual stages.
The fungal spores linger over the winter in fallen leaves and lesions on canes. In the spring, the spores are splashed up onto the leaves, causing infection within seven hours of moisture and when temperatures range between 24 to 29 ℃ with a high relative humidity.
In just two weeks, thousands of additional spores are produced, making it easy for the disease to infect nearby healthy plants as well.
There are several factors that could make a plant more likely to suffer a black spot infection. Here are some of the most common:
  • Exposure to infected plants or mulch (the fungus overwinters on dead leaves)
  • Weakening from physical damage, pest infestation or other infections.
  • Increased periods of wet, humid, warm weather – or exposure to overhead watering
  • Plants growing too close together
Solutions
Solutions
Some steps to take to address black spot include:
  • Prune away any infected leaves, cleaning the pruners between plants with a 10% bleach solution so that the fungus does not spread to healthy leaves.
  • Don't compost pruned plant parts as the spores can linger in the soil for a long period of time - instead, dispose of them in the trash.
  • Use an approved fungicide such as Trifloxystrobin, Chlorothalonil, Maneb, or Myclobutanil.
  • Use a spreader in the fungicide spray to ensure better coverage.
Prevention
Prevention
Here are a few tips to prevent black spot outbreaks.
  • Purchase resistant varieties: Invest in fungus-resistant plant varieties to reduce the chances for black spot diseases.
  • Remove infected plant debris: Fungi can overwinter in contaminated plant debris, so remove all fallen leaves from infected plants as soon as possible.
  • Rake and discard fallen leaves in the fall.
  • Prune regularly.
  • Water carefully: Fungal diseases spread when plants stay in moist conditions and when water droplets splash contaminated soil on plant leaves. Control these factors by only watering infected plants when the top few inches of soil are dry, and by watering at soil level to reduce splashback. Adding a layer of mulch to the soil will also reduce splashing.
  • Grow plants in an open, sunny locations so the foliage dries quickly.
  • Follow spacing guidelines when planting and avoid natural windbreaks for good air circulation.
  • Use chemical control: Regular doses of a fungicide, especially in the spring, can stop an outbreak before it begins.
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Caterpillars
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Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Overview
Overview
Caterpillars can cause problems for home gardeners. If not managed, these insects can defoliate a plant in just a matter of days. However, home gardeners face a challenge because these caterpillars eventually turn into beautiful butterflies and moths, which are important for pollination and the general ecosystem.
There are thousands of different species of caterpillars and many will only target certain plants. If caterpillars are posing a problem, they can be removed by hand, or gardeners can use insect-proof netting to protect their valuable plants.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Caterpillars are the larvae of butterflies and moths. During the warmer months, butterflies and moths that visit gardens will lay their eggs on the underside of leaves.
When the tiny eggs hatch, the young larvae emerge and start feeding on the leaves of the plant. Depending on how many larvae have hatched, they can easily defoliate the plant in a very short period of time. Caterpillars will shed their skin as they grow, around 4 or 5 times during this feeding cycle.
Symptoms of caterpillars eating plants appear as holes in the leaves. The edges of the leaves may be eaten away as well, and flowers can be affected as well.
Some are easy to see, but others need to be searched for. This is because their bodies are often camouflaged to look like part of the plant. Gardeners need to look carefully along the stems of the plant as well as under the leaves. Also, look for tiny white, yellow, or brown eggs that can be found in groups on the underside of leaves.
Once the caterpillar is fully grown, it transforms into a pupa or chrysalis. Then, after a period of time that varies according to the species, a butterfly or moth will emerge from the pupa and the cycle begins again.
Solutions
Solutions
Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers.
For severe cases:
  1. Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects.
  2. Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans.
  3. Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps.
For less severe cases:
  1. Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water.
  2. Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.
Prevention
Prevention
Prevention may require less effort than attempts to eradicate infestations that have already begun. Here are our top steps for prevention:
  1. Monitor plants. Check plants regularly for caterpillar eggs on leaves. If they do not belong to an endangered species, they should be squished.
  2. Use insect netting. Cover plants with insect netting to prevent butterflies and moths from laying eggs on plants.
  3. Apply diatomaceous earth. Apply DE to plants early in the season and reapply after rain.
  4. Encourage plant diversity. This will attract predatory insects including parasitic wasps.
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distribution

Distribution of Egyptian lotus

Habitat of Egyptian lotus

Lakes
Northern Hemisphere
South Hemisphere

Distribution Map of Egyptian lotus

distribution map
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
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More Info on Egyptian Lotus Growth and Care

Basic Care Guide
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Plants Related to Egyptian lotus

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Lighting
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Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
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Requirements
Full sun
Ideal
Above 6 hours sunlight
Partial sun
Tolerance
About 3-6 hours sunlight
Watch how sunlight gracefully moves through your garden, and choose spots that provide the perfect balance of light and shade for your plants, ensuring their happiness.
Essentials
The egyptian lotus thrives under extensive sun exposure, crucial for its robust growth. Its native environment is abundant in sun, correlating to its sunlight preference. When sunlight is moderately present, it manages to survive too. However, too much or too little can hinder flowering and may lead to an overall unhealthy plant.
Preferred
Tolerable
Unsuitable
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Artificial lighting
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
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Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
Important Symptoms
Insufficient light
Egyptian lotus is commonly grown as an aquatic plant, thriving in open and sunlit environments. However, when placed in indoor settings with insufficient light, subtle symptoms of light deficiency may arise, often going unnoticed.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Small leaves
New leaves may grow smaller in size compared to the previous ones once they have matured.
Leggy or sparse growth
The spaces between leaves or stems of your Egyptian lotus may become longer, resulting in a thin and stretched-out appearance. This can make the plant look sparse and weak, and it may easily break or lean due to its own weight.
Faster leaf drop
When plants are exposed to low light conditions, they tend to shed older leaves early to conserve resources. Within a limited time, these resources can be utilized to grow new leaves until the plant's energy reserves are depleted.
Slower or no new growth
Egyptian lotus enters a survival mode when light conditions are poor, which leads to a halt in leaf production. As a result, the plant's growth becomes delayed or stops altogether.
Lighter-colored new leaves
Insufficient sunlight can cause leaves to develop irregular color patterns or appear pale. This indicates a lack of chlorophyll and essential nutrients.
Solutions
1. To ensure optimal growth, gradually move plants to a sunnier location each week, until they receive at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Use a south-facing window and keep curtains open during the day for maximum sunlight exposure and nutrient accumulation.2. To provide additional light for your plant, consider using artificial light if it's large or not easily movable. Keep a desk or ceiling lamp on for at least 8 hours daily, or invest in professional plant grow lights for ample light.
Excessive light
Egyptian lotus thrives in full sun exposure and can tolerate intense sunlight. With their remarkable resilience, symptoms of sunburn may not be easily visible, as they rarely suffer from it.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Chlorosis
Chlorosis is a condition where the plant's leaves lose their green color and turn yellow. This is due to the breakdown of chlorophyll from excessive sunlight, which negatively affects the plant's ability to photosynthesize.
Sunscald
Sunscald occurs when the plant's leaves or stems are damaged by intense sunlight exposure. It appears as pale, bleached, or necrotic areas on the plant tissue and can reduce the plant's overall health.
Leaf Curling
Leaf curling is a symptom where leaves curl or twist under extreme sunlight conditions. This is a defense mechanism used by the plant to reduce its surface area exposed to sunlight, minimizing water loss and damage.
Wilting
Wilting occurs when a plant loses turgor pressure and its leaves and stems begin to droop. Overexposure to sunlight can cause wilting by increasing the plant's water loss through transpiration, making it difficult for the plant to maintain adequate hydration.
Leaf Scorching
Leaf scorching is a symptom characterized by the appearance of brown, dry, and crispy edges or patches on leaves due to excessive sunlight. This can lead to a reduction in photosynthetic capacity and overall plant health.
Solutions
1. Move your plant to the optimal position where it can receive abundant sunlight but also have some shade. An east-facing window is an ideal choice as the morning sunlight is gentler. This way, your plant can enjoy ample sunlight while reducing the risk of sunburn.2. It is recommended to trim off any completely dehydrated or withered parts of the plant.
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Temperature
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Indoor
Outdoor
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Requirements
Ideal
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Just like people, each plant has its own preferences. Learn about your plants' temperature needs and create a comforting environment for them to flourish. As you care for your plants, your bond with them will deepen. Trust your intuition as you learn about their temperature needs, celebrating the journey you share. Lovingly monitor the temperature around your plants and adjust their environment as needed. A thermometer can be your ally in this heartfelt endeavor. Be patient and gentle with yourself as you explore your plants' temperature needs. Cherish your successes, learn from challenges, and nurture your garden with love, creating a haven that reflects the warmth of your care.
Essentials
Egyptian lotus thrives in temperate environments where temperatures average between 41 to 95 °F (5 to 35 ℃). A native to regions with moderate climates, it adjusts best with incremental temperature changes across seasons. Avoid extreme temperatures for optimal growth.
Regional wintering strategies
Egyptian lotus has strong cold resistance, so special frost protection measures are usually not necessary during winter. However, if the winter temperatures are expected to drop below {Limit_growth_temperature}, it is still important to provide cold protection. This can be achieved by covering the plant with materials such as soil or straw. Before the first freeze in autumn, it is recommended to water the plant abundantly, ensuring the soil remains moist and enters a frozen state. This helps prevent drought and water scarcity for the plant during winter and early spring.
Important Symptoms
Low Temperature
Egyptian lotus is cold-tolerant and thrives best when the temperature is above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min}. During winter, it should be kept above {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}. When the temperature falls below {Limit_growth_temperature}, although there may not be any noticeable changes during winter, there may be a decrease in sprouting or even no sprouting during springtime.
Solutions
In spring, remove any parts that have failed to sprout.
High Temperature
During summer, Egyptian lotus should be kept below {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}. When the temperature exceeds {Tolerable_growing_temperature_max}, the leaves of the plant may become lighter in color, prone to curling, susceptible to sunburn, and in severe cases, the entire plant may wilt and become dry.
Solutions
Trim away the sunburned and dried-up parts. Move the plant to a location that provides shade from the midday and afternoon sun, or use a shade cloth to create shade. Water the plant in the morning and evening to keep the soil moist.
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Transplant
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How to Successfully Transplant Egyptian Lotus?
The best time to transplant egyptian lotus is during the early growth phase of S1-S3, or 'spring to early summer', as it favours root development. Choose a sunny, sheltered location and ensure the plant has ample room for growth. Start gradually, as drastic changes may stress egyptian lotus.
What Preparations are Needed Before Transplanting Egyptian Lotus?
What is the Ideal Time for Transplanting Egyptian Lotus?
The best time for transplanting egyptian lotus is during the late spring to early summer (S1-S3). This period provides ample warmth and light needed for successful growth. Transferring egyptian lotus during these seasons ensures efficient nutrient absorption, leading to better flower production. Remember, taking this step properly sets egyptian lotus up for a bountiful bloom.
How Much Space Should You Leave Between Egyptian Lotus Plants?
Start with creating ample space for your egyptian lotus to grow. For optimum growth, each plant needs around 2-3 feet (60-90 cm) of spacing. This'll give them room to stretch out and flourish!
What is the Best Soil Mix for Egyptian Lotus Transplanting?
Get the soil ready for your egyptian lotus. A loamy, well-drained soil works best. To give your plant a nutrient boost, mix in some slow-release fertilizer while preparing the base. Remember, good soil means a happy plant!
Where Should You Relocate Your Egyptian Lotus?
Next, pick the right spot for your egyptian lotus. They love sun exposure but also appreciate some afternoon shade. So, locate a spot where they can get approximately 6 hours of sunlight. Wherever there's a bit of sun, your egyptian lotus will do fine!
What Equipments Should You Prepare Before Transplantation Egyptian Lotus?
Gardening Gloves
To shield your hands from possible cuts and abrasions while handling the egyptian lotus and other tools.
Shovel
To dig up soil, as well as create a hole for the plant in its new location.
Pruning Shears
To trim any damaged or diseased roots from the plant prior to transplantation.
Watering Can
To water the plant before and after transferring it.
Wheelbarrow
To transport the egyptian lotus from its original site to the new one, especially if it is a large plant.
Garden Trowel
For more precise digging and transplanting tasks.
How Do You Remove Egyptian Lotus from the Soil?
From Ground: Water the root zone of the egyptian lotus until the soil around it is damp. This helps make the extraction process easier and reduces stress on the plant. Using a shovel, dig a wide trench around the plant, taking care not to injure its roots. Gently lift the root ball out of the ground using the shovel.
From Pot: Water the egyptian lotus thoroughly. Turn the pot sideways, hold gently on the stem, and tap the bottom of the pot to release. If the plant is resistant, you may need to run a knife around the inside edge of the pot to loosen the root ball.
From Seedling Tray: Gently tease out the egyptian lotus seedling by lifting it from the leaf, not the stem. Hold the root ball carefully to ensure no damage occurs during the transfer process.
Step-by-Step Guide for Transplanting Egyptian Lotus
Step1 Prepare the New Site
Dig a hole that's twice as wide and equal in depth to the egyptian lotus's root ball. This will give the plant plenty of room to establish new roots.
Step2 Prepare the Plant
Trim any damaged or diseased roots from the egyptian lotus using pruning shears. This will help the plant direct energy to creating new, healthy roots after transplantation.
Step3 Transplant
Place the egyptian lotus in the hole, making sure the top of the root ball is level with the soil surface. Backfill the hole with the original soil, firming it gently around the base of the plant.
Step4 Water
Water the plant thoroughly after planting it, ensuring the water reaches the root zone.
How Do You Care For Egyptian Lotus After Transplanting?
Mulching
Apply a layer of mulch around the egyptian lotus, but not touching the stem, to help conserve moisture and suppress weeds.
Inspecting
Regularly check the egyptian lotus's leaves for any signs of transplant stress, like wilting or yellowing, and monitor pests and disease activity around the plant. Take necessary action when required.
Pruning
Prune the egyptian lotus plant to promote healthier growth. However, avoid heavy pruning immediately after transplanting as this may cause extra stress.
Feeding
The egyptian lotus is not typically a heavy feeder, but it may need a light application of a balanced, slow-release fertilizer around its root zone once it starts new growth. This should be done in accordance with the product instructions.
Troubleshooting Common Issues with Egyptian Lotus Transplantation.
What's the best season to transplant egyptian lotus?
The most optimal seasons for transplanting egyptian lotus are early to mid-year, specifically between the first and third season.
How far apart should I plant egyptian lotus?
Aim for 2-3 feet or 60-90 centimeters apart. This ensures the egyptian lotus has ample room to grow without obstruction.
How deep should I plant egyptian lotus during transplant?
The roots of egyptian lotus should be buried about 8-10 inches (approximately 20-25 centimeters) deep in the soil.
What type of soil is best for transplanting egyptian lotus?
Egyptian lotus prefer a soil rich in organic matter. A mixed loamy soil of high fertility would be perfect.
How much sunlight does egyptian lotus require post-transplant?
Egyptian lotus grows best in full sun. After transplanting, ensure it gets at least six hours of direct sunlight daily.
How much water do I need when transplanting egyptian lotus?
Egyptian lotus loves water. After transplanting, ensure the plant gets thoroughly watered and the soil stays damp, not flooded.
What is the proper technique for transplanting egyptian lotus to avoid damaging the roots?
Handle the plant with care to prevent root damage. Hold it by the base, avoid squashing the roots during the process.
How often should I fertilize egyptian lotus after transplant?
For a healthy growth after transplant, fertilize egyptian lotus once every three to four weeks using a balanced, slow-release fertilizer.
Should I prune egyptian lotus after transplanting?
Prune only if necessary. Remove dead or wilting leaves to allow for new growth but avoid heavy pruning.
What should I do if egyptian lotus doesn't show new growth after transplant?
Patience is key. However, if after 3-4 weeks there's no new growth, assess light, water, and nutrition conditions. Adjust as necessary.
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