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Erect prickly pear
Erect prickly pear
Erect prickly pear
Erect prickly pear
Erect prickly pear
Erect prickly pear
Erect prickly pear
Opuntia dillenii
Erect prickly pear is a cactus shrub that has spread in many areas and has become invasive in Australia, Asia, and Africa. This cactus grows best in desert and dry environments. Its attractive yellow flowers and stems are pleasant ornamentals. Erect prickly pear produces edible and juicy fruits with a tang of sweetness and acidity.
Planting Time
Planting Time
Early spring
care guide

Care Guide for Erect prickly pear

Watering Care
Watering Care
Drought-tolerant. Allow the soil to dry completely between watering.
Details on Watering Care Watering Care
Fertilizing Care
Fertilizing Care
Fertilization once every 2-3 months during the growing season.
Details on Fertilizing Care Fertilizing Care
Soil Care
Soil Care
Sand, Neutral, Slightly alkaline
Details on Soil Care Soil Care
What Are the Lighting Requirements for Erect prickly pear?
What Are the Lighting Requirements for Erect prickly pear?
Full sun
Details on Sunlight Requirements What Are the Lighting Requirements for Erect prickly pear?
What is the Ideal Temperature Range for Erect prickly pear?
What is the Ideal Temperature Range for Erect prickly pear?
10 to 12
Details on Temperature What is the Ideal Temperature Range for Erect prickly pear?
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Erect prickly pear
Water
Water
Every 3 weeks
Sunlight
Sunlight
Full sun
Planting Time
Planting Time
Early spring
question

Questions About Erect prickly pear

Watering Watering Watering
Sunlight Sunlight Sunlight
Temperature Temperature Temperature
Fertilizing Fertilizing Fertilizing
What should I do if I water my Erect prickly pear too much or too little?
Underwatered Erect prickly pear
Erect prickly pear and other succulents can endure long periods without water, so it’s unusual to find one of these suffering from underwatering. But, if you somehow forgot about your plant and neglected to water it for a month or more, you’ll probably find your Erect prickly pear looking thirsty or with some damage from lack of watering.
It is very easy to identify an underwatered Erect prickly pear. Plant look lacklustre and wrinkled. Some may have dried up completely, turned brown and crispy, or dropped off the plant. And of course, the soil will be completely dried out.
If your Erect prickly pear is thirsty and underwatered, give it plenty of water as soon as possible. Submerging the pot entirely in water for about 5-10 minutes is a good way to make sure the soil and plant are rehydrated properly. When you feel a sense of moisture on the surface of the soil with your finger, it means the watering is done properly.
Overwatered Erect prickly pear
Overwatering is dangerous to Erect prickly pear and can be fatal to your plant if you don’t remedy the situation. Too much moisture over time leads to root rot, which prevents the roots from being able to absorb nutrients and water from the soil. Root rot occurs when wet conditions allow fungi and bacteria to flourish in the soil and feed on roots. When you find that it's overwatered, you'd better change the growing conditions, place it somewhere with more air ventilation and adjust water frequency, for example.
The symptoms of overwatering are yellow, swollen, and translucent organs that may even burst open from being over-full with water. If the problem continues without being treated, plant might turn brown or black, and fall off the plant at the slightest touch. Be sure to check the soil to determine if overwatering is the culprit, as some other issues can cause similar symptoms.
It’s a bit difficult (but not impossible) to save an overwatered plant. The key is catching it early before a lot of damage has occurred. If the roots become rotten, it is likely to kill the entire plant. If you suspect you have overwatered your Erect prickly pear, the first step is to remove it from its pot and check the roots and soil.
After removing the plant from its pot, gently remove wet soil from around the roots and then rinse them clean in room-temperature water. This helps with removing fungus that might be lurking in the soil and allows you to get a better sense of how healthy the roots are. If your plant has already developed root rot, you will see roots that are dark brown or black, soft, mushy, or slimy.
If the majority of the roots are already affected by root rot, it may not be possible to save the plant. In this case, it is best to remove any healthy stem and try to use these to propagate a new Erect prickly pear. If, on the other hand, only a portion of the roots have succumbed to rot and other healthy roots still remain, there is a chance it can be saved.
Use a sterilized cutting tool to remove any unhealthy-looking roots. Once you're left with only the firm, pale roots, it’s a good idea to dip them in a fungicide to kill off any remaining spores. After that you can repot your Erect prickly pear in fresh, free-draining potting soil. While this does not always work to save a succulent with root rot, in most cases this plant will be able to make a full recovery and will put out new growth starting in the next growing season.
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How often should I water my Erect prickly pear?
There’s not a hard-and-fast rule for how often to water Erect prickly pear. The best way to determine this is to check the soil and only water when it’s bone dry. You can either stick your finger in the pot or use a moisture meter to check the soil below the surface. When you plant it in a deep pot, you can do this with a stick or chopstick. If it feels even a little bit moist, wait a few days and check it again.
Most people will need to water Erect prickly pear about every two weeks in summer and once a month in winter, but there are several factors that can change the frequency. The section below lists some considerations that can help you to determine how often to water.
Read More more
What should I consider when watering my Erect prickly pear?
There are several environmental conditions that will affect how your Erect prickly pear needs to be watered, including the container size, soil type, temperature, and humidity.
First off, the container and soil you use will determine how often to water and how much water to use each time. Be sure you use a container with plenty of drainage holes in the bottom so extra water can escape the pot. A small container has less room for soil, meaning it won’t hold as much moisture, while a larger pot will stay wet longer and need to be watered less often. It’s important not to keep your Erect prickly pear in an oversized pot as this can easily lead to overwatering. When repotting, move to just one size larger than the current container. A shallow container works better than a deep one, since Erect prickly pear has shallow root systems.
Erect prickly pear will need to be watered less often in winter and more often in the active growing season in spring and autumn. During the winter, growth slows down considerably and the plant isn’t using much energy or water. There is less water lost to evaporation in cooler winter air, meaning that soil stays wet for much longer than it would in the summer.
This also applies to the general climate around your home. If you live in a humid location with a lot of rain, you will need to water less often than if you live in a dry, arid climate. Remember that conditions at the same geographic location can vary significantly with the season and the use of indoor heating and air conditioning.
Outdoor Planting
If Erect prickly pear is planted in the ground, after establishing a root system, it shouldn’t need supplemental water beyond what it receives through precipitation and dew. But if there is a long dry period, you may want to water occasionally. In other areas where Erect prickly pear can only be grown in a container, this plant can be moved outside in the spring and summer when the temperature is proper and then brought back inside when temperatures start to drop. A potted Erect prickly pear kept outside usually needs more water than the same plant kept indoors, because there is a lot more sun exposure even on a shaded porch.
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How to water Erect prickly pear?
The best way to water Erect prickly pear is to soak it thoroughly and then allow it to dry out before it gets watered again. Since this plant is somewhat drought tolerant, you can let it get quite dry before watering again. It is always better to give this type of plant too little water over too much.
When you water, make sure the soil gets thoroughly soaked throughout the whole pot. Don’t pour the water in just one spot, but rather try to go around the whole rim of the planter to be sure that it has a chance to get wet on all sides of the plant. The correct amount of water will depend on the size of your container and how much water your soil absorbs. Give your Erect prickly pear enough water that it drains out from the drainage holes and then (ideally) leave the drained water in the saucer for about 20-30 minutes to absorb into dry pockets of soil. After that, discard any excess water that’s still in the saucer to avoid the soil getting waterlogged.
Bottom-watering is also an excellent method for Erect prickly pear, as you can be sure that the soil gets thoroughly moistened. This process involves placing the pot into a saucer of water and allowing the soil to absorb moisture through the drainage holes. You will know that the soil has absorbed enough water when the top layer is moist. This takes a bit more time than top-watering, but is almost foolproof in getting an even distribution of water throughout the pot.
The original habitat of Erect prickly pear is relatively dry with little rain, but when it rains, the soil will be thoroughly moistened. So you can mimic this situation by bottom-watering your plant when the soil is totally dry. Deep soil bathing is better than frequent light watering for Erect prickly pear.
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Key Facts About Erect prickly pear

Attributes of Erect prickly pear

Lifespan
Perennial
Plant Type
Succulent
Planting Time
Early spring
Bloom Time
Spring, Early summer, Mid summer, Late winter
Harvest Time
Mid winter, Late winter, Spring, Summer, Early fall
Plant Height
1 m to 3 m
Spread
1 m
Flower Size
5 cm to 7 cm
Flower Color
Yellow
Green
Leaf type
Evergreen

Scientific Classification of Erect prickly pear

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pests

Common Pests & Diseases About Erect prickly pear

Common issues for Erect prickly pear based on 10 million real cases
Scars
Scars Scars
Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Solutions: Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Fruit Spot
Fruit Spot Fruit Spot
Fruit Spot
Pathogenic infections can cause spots (typically black or brown) to appear on the fruit.
Solutions: Prune regularly - prune as a preventative measure as well as to remove any plants and plant parts affected by fruit Spot. Improve air circulation and drainage Fertilize as needed Spray applications - there are few programs that are effective at controlling fruit Spot for home growers, but the local cooperative extension may be able to provide information regarding potential chemical treatments if the disease is severe.
Dieback
Dieback Dieback
Dieback
There are several possible causes for dieback.
Solutions: There are a few things to try when dieback becomes apparent: Fertilize and water the plants - these two steps, along with judicious pruning, can help reduce the stress on the root system and encourage renewed vigor Have an arborist check to see if plant roots are girdling Test soil pH and adjust accordingly Remove and destroy infected twigs and branches
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Scars
plant poor
Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Scars form when the plant repairs wounds. They can be the result of people or pets passing by and scraping the plant. Once the underlying issue is resolved, the plant will heal but a scar may remain.
Pests and pathogens can also cause scarring. Insects may attack the plant for a meal, resulting in extensive scarring when a few invaders turn into an infestation. Diseases such as fungus and bacteria can weaken the plant, causing brown spots, mushy areas, or blisters that lead to scars.
Scars occur on stems when a leaf or bud has been lost and the plant has healed. The harder tissue is like a scab that protects a wound.
On other occasions, scars can signal problems from environmental conditions, such as overexposure to sunlight or heat. It might surprise you to know that plants can suffer from sunburn, even desert dwellers like cactus!
Solutions
Solutions
Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover.
  1. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes.
  2. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray.
  3. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs.
  4. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Prevention
Prevention
Preventing some sources of scarring is easier than others, but all start with careful attention to your plants once you decide to bring them home.
  1. Review specific guidelines for your plant, including soil drainage, watering, and fertilizer requirements.
  2. Inspect plants before planting and use sterile pots and fresh potting soil or media to limit transfer of fungi or bacteria.
  3. Once established, check your plants regularly for signs of scarring or the presence of pests, as it is better to catch problems as early as possible.
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Fruit Spot
plant poor
Fruit Spot
Pathogenic infections can cause spots (typically black or brown) to appear on the fruit.
Overview
Overview
If there are brown or black spots on the unripened fruits of plants, there is a good chance that fruit Spot could be to blame. This is an informal term used to describe several types of diseases that all cause these same symptoms: unattractive spots on fruits and vegetables.
There are a few different culprits behind fruit Spot, including bacterial spot, bacterial speck, and other related diseases (like early blight). Here are some symptoms and potential solutions to consider.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The symptoms of fruit Spot vary depending on which type of plant is affected as well as by which specific pathogen is to blame. Just about every type of plant can be affected by fruit Spot, including tomatoes, pears, plums, onions, strawberries, celery, peaches, and more.
Here are some examples of potential symptoms:
Small Fruit Spot
Small spots are most commonly associated with bacterial speck.
  • Spots may appear on fruits as well as leaves and other aboveground areas of the plant
  • Small black specks appear on infected fruits (spots are less than 1/16” in diameter)
  • Spots are raised with distinct margins, developing into sunken pits as the fruit matures
  • Fruit tissue near the spot stays green longer than the rest of the fruit
  • Spots are dark brown to black in color, with nearby spots often growing together
Large Fruit Spot
Large spots are often seen on plants suffering from bacterial spot, early blight, and related diseases.
  • Spots are large, sometimes larger than 1.3 cm
  • Some spots may look like targets with a brown to greyish coloration
  • Older spots are black and raised with lobed borders
  • Spots are superficial only, not penetrating into the seed cavity
  • Spots may turn into sunken pits, turning into craters as they get older
  • The skin of the fruit can be cracked and produce a water-soaked border
  • Some spots may ooze a gelatinous substance
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
There are a few culprits behind the fruit Spot. These depend on the pathogen as well as the type of plant. Bacterial speck and bacterial spot are both common diseases that can affect tomatoes, ground cherries, and other plants.
Bacterial speck is caused by Pseudomonas syringae. First discovered in the United States in 1933, it is most common in tomatoes and nearby weeds but can affect other kinds of plants and their fruits, too. It is more prevalent in low temperatures (less than 24 ℃) and high moisture.
Bacterial spot is caused by Xanthomonas campestris pv. Vesicatoria. First discovered in Texas in 1912, this disease is more common in warm weather and conditions of high moisture.
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Dieback
plant poor
Dieback
There are several possible causes for dieback.
Overview
Overview
Dealing with dieback in plants can be tricky, in part because this is both the name of a disease itself and a common symptom of many other types of diseases. Dieback can be characterized by the progressive, gradual death of shoots, twigs, roots, and branches, generally starting first at the tips.
In many cases, dieback is caused by fungi or bacteria. These pathogens can produce cankers, wilts, stem or root rots, and even anthracnose, but the most common symptom, of course, is that various plant parts (or the entire plant) will begin to die back.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The symptoms of dieback can be gradual or slightly more abrupt. Usually, however, they are slow in developing and tend to be uniform among the various parts of a plant.
Some plants may have more localized symptoms, with all twigs affected or all branches affected but not the rest of the plant. Some potential symptoms include:
  • Dead or dying branches and twigs
  • Dieback that starts in the top of a plant and progresses downward (though it can start lower, especially for conifers)
  • A delayed flush of growth in the spring
  • Leaf margins become scorched
  • Pale green or yellow leaves
  • Leaves that are small or otherwise distorted
  • Early leaf drop
  • Reduced growth of twigs and stems
  • Thinning of crown foliage
  • Production of suckers on trunk and branches
  • Premature fall coloration (in tree species like birch, sweetgum, maple, oak, ash, etc)
The symptoms of dieback can occur within just one season or become worse each and every year.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
There are several types of dieback, each of which has a different cause with which it is associated.
"dieback" as a standalone issue, including the condition known as Staghead, is caused by fungal or bacterial infections. Staghead is a slow dieback that occurs on the upper branches of a tree, named as such because the dead limbs look much like the head of a stag.
Other causes of dieback symptoms include:
  • Cankers or wilts
  • Stem or root rots
  • Nematodes
  • Stem or root boring insects
  • Pavement being placed over root systems
  • Winter injury from cold
  • Salt damage
  • Lack of moisture (or excess of moisture)
  • Lack of an essential nutrient or element
Trees and shrubs that are attacked by insects, exposed to extremely high or low temperatures, or experience severe and frequent fluctuations in soil moisture are the most likely to suffer from dieback. These stress factors alone or in combination with each other can reduce leaf and shoot growth, and progress into death of twigs and branches.
Although any of these issues can lead to dieback, the most serious consequences tend to occur when the roots of a plant are damaged. Similarly, trees and shrubs that are planted improperly or in unfavorable locations are more likely to develop this condition.
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distribution

Distribution of Erect prickly pear

Habitat of Erect prickly pear

Open woodlands, rangelands, grasslands, pastures, creekbanks, roadsides, railways lines, coastal environs, gardens, disturbed sites, waste areas
Northern Hemisphere
South Hemisphere

Distribution Map of Erect prickly pear

distribution map
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
habit
care_scenes

More Info on Erect Prickly Pear Growth and Care

Basic Care Guide
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Lighting
Full sun
The erect prickly pear thrives when exposed to plentiful amounts of sunlight each day, promoting healthy growth. Originating from environments with substantial sun exposure, it thrives in such conditions. However, too much or too little light can affect its growth and overall health.
Best Sunlight Practices
Temperature
5 43 ℃
Erect prickly pear is native to warmer environments, ideally flourishing in a temperature range between 68 to 100 °F (20 to 38 ℃). Year-round temperature regulation based on these levels, with possible slight adjustments for seasonal variances, can maximize the plant's health and growth.
Temp for Healthy Growth
Transplant
5-6 feet
Erect prickly pear thrives best when transplanted during the warm, favorable conditions from late spring to early summer (S5-S7). Choose a sunny location with well-draining soil. Handle with care due to its prickly nature to ensure a successful transplantation.
Transplant Techniques
Feng shui direction
Northeast
The erect prickly pear holds symbolic potential in Feng Shui, particularly in promoting both protective and healing energies. Its compatibility with the Northeast direction might be due to this area being linked to personal growth and self-cultivation in Feng Shui, harmonising well with the plant's resilience.
Fengshui Details
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Plants Related to Erect prickly pear

Egyptian grass
Egyptian grass
Egyptian grass is native to Africa and can function to anchor loose soil or sand. Because it always shows up on barren land and grows quickly, it is considered an invasive species in the United States and some other regions.
Desert date
Desert date
The desert date (Balanites aegyptiaca) is an important shrub in Africa because it provides edible fruit that grows in many conditions, from arid to flooded climates and in very poor soils. The plant is also used as wood for furniture, tools, and fuel. This tree is truly multipurpose since its sticky gum is also an effective glue.
Delta maidenhair fern
Delta maidenhair fern
Delta maidenhair fern (Adiantum raddianum) is a popular houseplant. Its leaves have the ability to shed water without becoming wet. That's why the entire genus of Adiantum got its scientific name, which was derived from Greek and means "unwetted."
Darwin's barberry
Darwin's barberry
Charles Darwin discovered this barberry (Berberis darwinii) in 1835 on his second voyage on the Beagle. Coming from the harsher climatic regions of Chile and Argentina, it is hardy, easy to grow, and wind-resistant. Its dark green leaves, golden flowers on red stalks, and purple-blue berries add color to a winter garden, but garden escapees can become a nuisance.
Common chicory
Common chicory
Common chicory is used in a variety of culinary applications around the world, most commonly with coffee. It is occasionally also added during the beer-brewing process to inject a coffee-like flavor. The leaves can be boiled or eaten raw in salad or with pasta. Common chicory is also a simple livestock fodder. In European folklore, the small blue flowers could be used to magically open locked doors.
Common barberry
Common barberry
Common barberry is a shrub with unpleasant-smelling flowers and red berries. The flowers can be used to create yellow dye while the berries have culinary and medicinal uses in Iran and medicinal use in China that dates back 3,000 years. Despite this, common barberry can be a host to wheat rust that is highly damaging to grain crops in America.
Poison ivy
Poison ivy
In pop culture, poison ivy is a symbol of an obnoxious weed because, despite its unthreatening looks, it gives a highly unpleasant contact rash to the unfortunate person who touches it. Still, it is commonly eaten by many animals, and the seeds are a favorite with birds. The leaves turn bright red in fall. Its sister species, Western poison ivy (Toxicodendron rydbergii), is not considered to be invasive in the United States, but is noxious in Australia and New Zealand.
Pokeweed
Pokeweed
Although its berries look juicy and tempting, the fruits and the root of pokeweed are toxic and should not be eaten. Pokeweed is considered a pest species by farmers but is nevertheless often grown as an ornamental plant. Its berries can be made into pokeberry ink as well.
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Related Plants
Erect prickly pear
Erect prickly pear
Erect prickly pear
Erect prickly pear
Erect prickly pear
Erect prickly pear
Erect prickly pear
Opuntia dillenii
Erect prickly pear is a cactus shrub that has spread in many areas and has become invasive in Australia, Asia, and Africa. This cactus grows best in desert and dry environments. Its attractive yellow flowers and stems are pleasant ornamentals. Erect prickly pear produces edible and juicy fruits with a tang of sweetness and acidity.
Planting Time
Planting Time
Early spring
question

Questions About Erect prickly pear

Watering Watering Watering
Sunlight Sunlight Sunlight
Temperature Temperature Temperature
Fertilizing Fertilizing Fertilizing
What should I do if I water my Erect prickly pear too much or too little?
more
How often should I water my Erect prickly pear?
more
What should I consider when watering my Erect prickly pear?
more
How to water Erect prickly pear?
more
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plant_info

Key Facts About Erect prickly pear

Attributes of Erect prickly pear

Lifespan
Perennial
Plant Type
Succulent
Planting Time
Early spring
Bloom Time
Spring, Early summer, Mid summer, Late winter
Harvest Time
Mid winter, Late winter, Spring, Summer, Early fall
Plant Height
1 m to 3 m
Spread
1 m
Flower Size
5 cm to 7 cm
Flower Color
Yellow
Green
Leaf type
Evergreen
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Scientific Classification of Erect prickly pear

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pests

Common Pests & Diseases About Erect prickly pear

Common issues for Erect prickly pear based on 10 million real cases
Scars
Scars Scars Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Solutions: Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Learn More About the Scars more
Fruit Spot
Fruit Spot Fruit Spot Fruit Spot
Pathogenic infections can cause spots (typically black or brown) to appear on the fruit.
Solutions: Prune regularly - prune as a preventative measure as well as to remove any plants and plant parts affected by fruit Spot. Improve air circulation and drainage Fertilize as needed Spray applications - there are few programs that are effective at controlling fruit Spot for home growers, but the local cooperative extension may be able to provide information regarding potential chemical treatments if the disease is severe.
Learn More About the Fruit Spot more
Dieback
Dieback Dieback Dieback
There are several possible causes for dieback.
Solutions: There are a few things to try when dieback becomes apparent: Fertilize and water the plants - these two steps, along with judicious pruning, can help reduce the stress on the root system and encourage renewed vigor Have an arborist check to see if plant roots are girdling Test soil pH and adjust accordingly Remove and destroy infected twigs and branches
Learn More About the Dieback more
icon
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close
Scars
plant poor
Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Scars form when the plant repairs wounds. They can be the result of people or pets passing by and scraping the plant. Once the underlying issue is resolved, the plant will heal but a scar may remain.
Pests and pathogens can also cause scarring. Insects may attack the plant for a meal, resulting in extensive scarring when a few invaders turn into an infestation. Diseases such as fungus and bacteria can weaken the plant, causing brown spots, mushy areas, or blisters that lead to scars.
Scars occur on stems when a leaf or bud has been lost and the plant has healed. The harder tissue is like a scab that protects a wound.
On other occasions, scars can signal problems from environmental conditions, such as overexposure to sunlight or heat. It might surprise you to know that plants can suffer from sunburn, even desert dwellers like cactus!
Solutions
Solutions
Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover.
  1. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes.
  2. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray.
  3. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs.
  4. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Prevention
Prevention
Preventing some sources of scarring is easier than others, but all start with careful attention to your plants once you decide to bring them home.
  1. Review specific guidelines for your plant, including soil drainage, watering, and fertilizer requirements.
  2. Inspect plants before planting and use sterile pots and fresh potting soil or media to limit transfer of fungi or bacteria.
  3. Once established, check your plants regularly for signs of scarring or the presence of pests, as it is better to catch problems as early as possible.
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Fruit Spot
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Fruit Spot
Pathogenic infections can cause spots (typically black or brown) to appear on the fruit.
Overview
Overview
If there are brown or black spots on the unripened fruits of plants, there is a good chance that fruit Spot could be to blame. This is an informal term used to describe several types of diseases that all cause these same symptoms: unattractive spots on fruits and vegetables.
There are a few different culprits behind fruit Spot, including bacterial spot, bacterial speck, and other related diseases (like early blight). Here are some symptoms and potential solutions to consider.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The symptoms of fruit Spot vary depending on which type of plant is affected as well as by which specific pathogen is to blame. Just about every type of plant can be affected by fruit Spot, including tomatoes, pears, plums, onions, strawberries, celery, peaches, and more.
Here are some examples of potential symptoms:
Small Fruit Spot
Small spots are most commonly associated with bacterial speck.
  • Spots may appear on fruits as well as leaves and other aboveground areas of the plant
  • Small black specks appear on infected fruits (spots are less than 1/16” in diameter)
  • Spots are raised with distinct margins, developing into sunken pits as the fruit matures
  • Fruit tissue near the spot stays green longer than the rest of the fruit
  • Spots are dark brown to black in color, with nearby spots often growing together
Large Fruit Spot
Large spots are often seen on plants suffering from bacterial spot, early blight, and related diseases.
  • Spots are large, sometimes larger than 1.3 cm
  • Some spots may look like targets with a brown to greyish coloration
  • Older spots are black and raised with lobed borders
  • Spots are superficial only, not penetrating into the seed cavity
  • Spots may turn into sunken pits, turning into craters as they get older
  • The skin of the fruit can be cracked and produce a water-soaked border
  • Some spots may ooze a gelatinous substance
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
There are a few culprits behind the fruit Spot. These depend on the pathogen as well as the type of plant. Bacterial speck and bacterial spot are both common diseases that can affect tomatoes, ground cherries, and other plants.
Bacterial speck is caused by Pseudomonas syringae. First discovered in the United States in 1933, it is most common in tomatoes and nearby weeds but can affect other kinds of plants and their fruits, too. It is more prevalent in low temperatures (less than 24 ℃) and high moisture.
Bacterial spot is caused by Xanthomonas campestris pv. Vesicatoria. First discovered in Texas in 1912, this disease is more common in warm weather and conditions of high moisture.
Solutions
Solutions
  • Prune regularly - prune as a preventative measure as well as to remove any plants and plant parts affected by fruit Spot.
  • Improve air circulation and drainage
  • Fertilize as needed
  • Spray applications - there are few programs that are effective at controlling fruit Spot for home growers, but the local cooperative extension may be able to provide information regarding potential chemical treatments if the disease is severe.
Prevention
Prevention
There are several ways to prevent both types of fruit Spot from affecting yields and harvests:
  • Rotate crops - do not plant the same kind of plant in the same spot each year, instead switching out locations every two to three years
  • Use disease-free seeds and transplants - using a hot water treatment to sterilize seeds before planting can also be effective
  • Irrigate early in the day to give plants time to dry off before nightfall
  • Avoid working around plants when they are wet
  • Control weeds
  • Remove debris or plow it under at the end of the growing season
  • Fertilize with higher amounts of nitrogen and use less calcium
  • Plant resistant cultivars when available
  • Do not clip plants when transplanting
  • Dispose of affected plant parts immediately (do not compost)
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Dieback
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Dieback
There are several possible causes for dieback.
Overview
Overview
Dealing with dieback in plants can be tricky, in part because this is both the name of a disease itself and a common symptom of many other types of diseases. Dieback can be characterized by the progressive, gradual death of shoots, twigs, roots, and branches, generally starting first at the tips.
In many cases, dieback is caused by fungi or bacteria. These pathogens can produce cankers, wilts, stem or root rots, and even anthracnose, but the most common symptom, of course, is that various plant parts (or the entire plant) will begin to die back.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The symptoms of dieback can be gradual or slightly more abrupt. Usually, however, they are slow in developing and tend to be uniform among the various parts of a plant.
Some plants may have more localized symptoms, with all twigs affected or all branches affected but not the rest of the plant. Some potential symptoms include:
  • Dead or dying branches and twigs
  • Dieback that starts in the top of a plant and progresses downward (though it can start lower, especially for conifers)
  • A delayed flush of growth in the spring
  • Leaf margins become scorched
  • Pale green or yellow leaves
  • Leaves that are small or otherwise distorted
  • Early leaf drop
  • Reduced growth of twigs and stems
  • Thinning of crown foliage
  • Production of suckers on trunk and branches
  • Premature fall coloration (in tree species like birch, sweetgum, maple, oak, ash, etc)
The symptoms of dieback can occur within just one season or become worse each and every year.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
There are several types of dieback, each of which has a different cause with which it is associated.
"dieback" as a standalone issue, including the condition known as Staghead, is caused by fungal or bacterial infections. Staghead is a slow dieback that occurs on the upper branches of a tree, named as such because the dead limbs look much like the head of a stag.
Other causes of dieback symptoms include:
  • Cankers or wilts
  • Stem or root rots
  • Nematodes
  • Stem or root boring insects
  • Pavement being placed over root systems
  • Winter injury from cold
  • Salt damage
  • Lack of moisture (or excess of moisture)
  • Lack of an essential nutrient or element
Trees and shrubs that are attacked by insects, exposed to extremely high or low temperatures, or experience severe and frequent fluctuations in soil moisture are the most likely to suffer from dieback. These stress factors alone or in combination with each other can reduce leaf and shoot growth, and progress into death of twigs and branches.
Although any of these issues can lead to dieback, the most serious consequences tend to occur when the roots of a plant are damaged. Similarly, trees and shrubs that are planted improperly or in unfavorable locations are more likely to develop this condition.
Solutions
Solutions
There are a few things to try when dieback becomes apparent:
  • Fertilize and water the plants - these two steps, along with judicious pruning, can help reduce the stress on the root system and encourage renewed vigor
  • Have an arborist check to see if plant roots are girdling
  • Test soil pH and adjust accordingly
  • Remove and destroy infected twigs and branches
Prevention
Prevention
The best way to prevent dieback is to match the plant to the site. Make sure the conditions provided for a new planting match its needs.
  • Plant properly in deep, fertile well-draining soil
  • Make sure plant roots won’t be confined when the plant reaches its mature size
  • Avoid changes to the growing site
  • If soil compaction might be an issue, apply a few inches of wood chips and eliminate traffic over the root area
  • Fertilize and water appropriately
It is also important to avoid potential infection with pathogens that can cause dieback:
  • Avoid binding or wounding the roots and trunk whenever possible
  • Avoid excessive pruning
  • Disinfect all tools before working with plants to reduce the spread of disease
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distribution

Distribution of Erect prickly pear

Habitat of Erect prickly pear

Open woodlands, rangelands, grasslands, pastures, creekbanks, roadsides, railways lines, coastal environs, gardens, disturbed sites, waste areas
Northern Hemisphere
South Hemisphere

Distribution Map of Erect prickly pear

distribution map
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
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More Info on Erect Prickly Pear Growth and Care

Basic Care Guide
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Plants Related to Erect prickly pear

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Lighting
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Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
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Requirements
Full sun
Ideal
Above 6 hours sunlight
Watch how sunlight gracefully moves through your garden, and choose spots that provide the perfect balance of light and shade for your plants, ensuring their happiness.
Essentials
The erect prickly pear thrives when exposed to plentiful amounts of sunlight each day, promoting healthy growth. Originating from environments with substantial sun exposure, it thrives in such conditions. However, too much or too little light can affect its growth and overall health.
Preferred
Tolerable
Unsuitable
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Artificial lighting
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
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Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
Important Symptoms
Insufficient light
Erect prickly pear is a beloved choice for indoor gardening, and they require strong light to thrive. However, when placed in rooms with suboptimal lighting, they may develop symptoms of light deficiency.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Small leaves
New leaves may grow smaller in size compared to the previous ones once they have matured.
Leggy or sparse growth
The spaces between leaves or stems of your Erect prickly pear may become longer, resulting in a thin and stretched-out appearance. This can make the plant look sparse and weak, and it may easily break or lean due to its own weight.
Faster leaf drop
When plants are exposed to low light conditions, they tend to shed older leaves early to conserve resources. Within a limited time, these resources can be utilized to grow new leaves until the plant's energy reserves are depleted.
Slower or no new growth
Erect prickly pear enters a survival mode when light conditions are poor, which leads to a halt in leaf production. As a result, the plant's growth becomes delayed or stops altogether.
Lighter-colored new leaves
Insufficient sunlight can cause leaves to develop irregular color patterns or appear pale. This indicates a lack of chlorophyll and essential nutrients.
Solutions
1. To ensure optimal growth, gradually move plants to a sunnier location each week, until they receive at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Use a south-facing window and keep curtains open during the day for maximum sunlight exposure and nutrient accumulation.2. To provide additional light for your plant, consider using artificial light if it's large or not easily movable. Keep a desk or ceiling lamp on for at least 8 hours daily, or invest in professional plant grow lights for ample light.
Excessive light
Erect prickly pear require strong light to thrive, and some are remarkably resilient to sun exposure, rarely suffering from sunburn.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Chlorosis
Chlorosis is a condition where the plant's leaves lose their green color and turn yellow. This is due to the breakdown of chlorophyll from excessive sunlight, which negatively affects the plant's ability to photosynthesize.
Sunscald
Sunscald occurs when the plant's leaves or stems are damaged by intense sunlight exposure. It appears as pale, bleached, or necrotic areas on the plant tissue and can reduce the plant's overall health.
Leaf Curling
Leaf curling is a symptom where leaves curl or twist under extreme sunlight conditions. This is a defense mechanism used by the plant to reduce its surface area exposed to sunlight, minimizing water loss and damage.
Wilting
Wilting occurs when a plant loses turgor pressure and its leaves and stems begin to droop. Overexposure to sunlight can cause wilting by increasing the plant's water loss through transpiration, making it difficult for the plant to maintain adequate hydration.
Leaf Scorching
Leaf scorching is a symptom characterized by the appearance of brown, dry, and crispy edges or patches on leaves due to excessive sunlight. This can lead to a reduction in photosynthetic capacity and overall plant health.
Solutions
1. Move your plant to the optimal position where it can receive abundant sunlight but also have some shade. An east-facing window is an ideal choice as the morning sunlight is gentler. This way, your plant can enjoy ample sunlight while reducing the risk of sunburn.2. It is recommended to trim off any completely dehydrated or withered parts of the plant.
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Temperature
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Indoor
Outdoor
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Requirements
Ideal
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Just like people, each plant has its own preferences. Learn about your plants' temperature needs and create a comforting environment for them to flourish. As you care for your plants, your bond with them will deepen. Trust your intuition as you learn about their temperature needs, celebrating the journey you share. Lovingly monitor the temperature around your plants and adjust their environment as needed. A thermometer can be your ally in this heartfelt endeavor. Be patient and gentle with yourself as you explore your plants' temperature needs. Cherish your successes, learn from challenges, and nurture your garden with love, creating a haven that reflects the warmth of your care.
Essentials
Erect prickly pear is native to warmer environments, ideally flourishing in a temperature range between 68 to 100 °F (20 to 38 ℃). Year-round temperature regulation based on these levels, with possible slight adjustments for seasonal variances, can maximize the plant's health and growth.
Regional wintering strategies
Erect prickly pear is a heat-loving plant that gradually stops growing and enters a dormant state during the winter. When the outdoor temperature drops below {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}, it should be moved indoors for cultivation. Choose a location near a south-facing window to provide as much sunlight as possible. If there is insufficient natural light, supplemental lighting can be used. When the temperature falls below {Suitable_growth_temperature_min}, the plant's growth slows down, and watering should be reduced or stopped to prevent root rot. For Erect prickly pear grown outdoors, watering should be completely halted during low temperatures. If feasible, you can set up a temporary greenhouse for insulation or use materials such as plastic film or fabric to wrap the plant during cold temperatures.
Important Symptoms
Low Temperature
Erect prickly pear thrives in high temperatures and is not tolerant of low temperatures. It grows best when the temperature is above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min}. During winter, it should be kept above {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}. When the temperature falls below {Limit_growth_temperature}, the plant may become weak, wilt, and be prone to root rot. In cases of mild frost damage, there may not be any initial symptoms, but after a week, the plant will gradually wither.
Solutions
Trim off the frostbitten areas, paying attention to whether the roots have rotted. If the roots have rotted, they need to be cut off, and the plant can be propagated through cuttings. Immediately move indoors to a warm environment and place the plant near a south-facing window to ensure ample sunlight. If there is insufficient light, you can use supplemental lighting.
High Temperature
During summer, Erect prickly pear should be kept below {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}. When the temperature exceeds {Tolerable_growing_temperature_max}, the plant's growth will cease, it will experience water loss, wilting, and becomes more susceptible to sunburn.
Solutions
Remove the sunburned and rotten parts. Shield the plant from afternoon sunlight until it recovers and starts growing again. For plants with root rot, stop watering until new roots begin to emerge.
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Transplant
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How to Successfully Transplant Erect Prickly Pear?
Erect prickly pear thrives best when transplanted during the warm, favorable conditions from late spring to early summer (S5-S7). Choose a sunny location with well-draining soil. Handle with care due to its prickly nature to ensure a successful transplantation.
What Preparations are Needed Before Transplanting Erect Prickly Pear?
What is the Ideal Time for Transplanting Erect Prickly Pear?
The prime season to relocate erect prickly pear ideally falls between late spring and early summer (S5-S7) because these warmer months stimulate successful root development. Transplanting erect prickly pear during this period offers the advantage of its stronger growth and bloom. By doing so, you're ensuring that erect prickly pear flourishes more heartily and has a better chance to enhance your garden's aesthetic beauty. Please remember, proper planting preparation leads to thriving erect prickly pear plants.
How Much Space Should You Leave Between Erect Prickly Pear Plants?
When considering the space for erect prickly pear, maintain a distance of about 5-6 feet (approximately 1.5-1.8 meters). This ensures it has enough room to grow without competing for resources. This step is crucial to give your young plant a healthy start!
What is the Best Soil Mix for Erect Prickly Pear Transplanting?
For erect prickly pear, a soil mix of sand, loam and well-rotted compost works wonders. Before transplanting, prepare the base fertilizer by amending the soil with an all-purpose slow-release plant food. This will provide the necessary nutrients for optimal growth.
Where Should You Relocate Your Erect Prickly Pear?
It's vital to pick a location for erect prickly pear that receives plenty of sunlight throughout the day. They love the sun, so a sunny spot in your garden or an area that gets at least 6 hours of sunlight is ideal.
What Equipments Should You Prepare Before Transplantation Erect Prickly Pear?
Gardening Gloves
To protect your hands from the prickly spines of the erect prickly pear.
Shovel or Spade
To dig up the plant from its original location or to dig the hole for transplanting in the new spot.
Gardening Trowel
Handy for digging up small plants or prying loose roots.
Gardening Fork
To help loosen the soil around roots and keeping them intact while transplanting.
Watering Can
To hydrate the plant before and after transplanting.
Gardening Shears
To trim off any dead or overgrown parts of the erect prickly pear before transplanting.
Wheelbarrow or Pot
To safely transport the plant from one location to another without damaging it.
How Do You Remove Erect Prickly Pear from the Soil?
From Ground: Begin by watering the erect prickly pear plant to dampen the soil. This makes it easier to dig and minimizes stress on the plant. Then, use a shovel or spade to cautiously dig a wide trench around the plant, ensuring the plant's root ball remains intact. Gradually work the spade under the plant to lift it out.
From Pot: If the erect prickly pear is in a pot, you’ll want to water it well ahead of time. Turn the pot sideways, hold gently near the base of the plant, and shake it loose. If it’s stubborn, you might need to tap the bottom of the pot or roll it a bit to persuade the plant to come out.
From Seedling Tray: If the erect prickly pear is young and in a seedling tray, use a gardening trowel to carefully scoop the plant — including the roots — and avoid damaging the delicate stem.
Step-by-Step Guide for Transplanting Erect Prickly Pear
Step1 Site Preparation
Choose a location that fulfills the sunlight and space requirements of the erect prickly pear. Dig a hole that is twice the size of the root ball of your plant. Loosen the soil in and around the hole.
Step2 Plant Placement
Place your erect prickly pear in the hole, ensuring that the top of the root ball is level with the surrounding soil. Adjust the soil beneath the plant to achieve the right height if necessary.
Step3 Back-filling
Gently back-fill the hole, firming the soil lightly as you go along to ensure it wraps around the roots reducing air pockets.
Step4 Watering
Once your erect prickly pear is planted, water it thoroughly. This will settle the soil and create a good contact between the roots and the new soil.
Step5 Monitor
Observe the erect prickly pear over the next few days to ensure it is stable and adapting well to the new location.
How Do You Care For Erect Prickly Pear After Transplanting?
Watering
While the erect prickly pear is relatively drought-tolerant, watering it deeply a few days after the transplant will help settle the soil and lets you know if any soil/roots have been exposed.
Pruning
Prune any part of the erect prickly pear that appears damaged or wilting after the transplant. This allows the plant to direct its energy towards new growth.
Disease and Pest Monitoring
Keep an eye out for any pests or signs of disease. Early detection is key to preventing any potential outbreaks.
Potted erect prickly pear
If your erect prickly pear is in a pot, make sure that it isn't standing in water as this may cause root rot. Ensure the pot has sufficient drainage.
Troubleshooting Common Issues with Erect Prickly Pear Transplantation.
What is the ideal time to transplant erect prickly pear?
The best time to transplant erect prickly pear is during the S5-S7 season. This ensures the plant will have the most favorable conditions for healthy growth and establishment.
How far apart should erect prickly pear plants be spaced?
Erect prickly pear plants grow best when spaced 5-6 feet (1.5-1.8 meters) apart. This gives each plant enough room to grow and flourish.
Why is my transplanted erect prickly pear wilting?
Overwatering or under-watering could cause your erect prickly pear to wilt. After transplanting, maintain a consistent balance of moisture. Too much water can drown roots while too little can dehydrate them.
Why are the leaves on my erect prickly pear turning yellow after transplant?
This may indicate a lack of nutrients. After transplanting, ensure you're providing your erect prickly pear with a balanced, slow-release fertilizer to give it the needed nutrients.
Why are the leaves of my erect prickly pear look shriveled after transplanting?
Shriveled leaves could be a sign of underwatering or sunburn. Maintain a consistent watering schedule and protect your erect prickly pear from extreme sunlight especially during the afternoon hours.
What to do if my erect prickly pear is not growing after transplanting?
Ensure that the erect prickly pear is getting adequate sunlight, water, and nutrients. Also, make sure it's planted in well-drained soil and you've given it the recommended spacing.
What soil is best for transplanting my erect prickly pear?
Erect prickly pear favors a well-draining soil. A mix of sand, loam, and a little bit of compost works best. Improving soil composition creates conditions ideal for root development.
How deep should the hole be when transplanting erect prickly pear?
The hole should be just deep enough to cover the roots of the erect prickly pear, around 10 inches (25 cm). This allows the roots to establish quickly.
How often should I water my erect prickly pear after transplanting?
Water erect prickly pear thoroughly immediately after transplanting, then moderate the watering to once a week or whenever the soil is dry to touch. Overwatering can cause root rot.
What size pot should I use when transplanting erect prickly pear?
A pot with a diameter of around 18-24 inches (45-60 cm) is ideal for erect prickly pear. This size provides enough room for the root system to expand and flourish.
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