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Add to My Garden Pygmy date palm
Phoenix roebelenii
Also known as: Dwarf date palm, Robellini
Pygmy date palm (Phoenix roebelenii) is a palm species native to China, Laos, and Vietnam. Pygmy date palm is commonly cultivated as an indoor houseplant. This plant requires direct sunlight for optimal growth. In nature, it grows alongside rivers.
Water
Every 1-2 weeks
Sunlight
Full sun
Care Guide for Pygmy date palm
Pygmy date palm prefers moist and well-drained soil. Gardeners should water plants deeply at a depth of 2 feet to maintain moisture. During its growth season, gardeners should keep the soil moist but not sodden. Excessive water with poor drainage can cause Pygmy date palm to suffer from root rot.
Pygmy date palm can be fertilized prior to its growth cycle and a month before the first frost. Fertilization can promote leaf growth and help avoid mineral deficiencies. It can be treated with a palm tree fertilizer.
Trim the diseased, withered leaves once a month.
Sand, Loam, Clay, Chalky, Acidic, Neutral, Alkaline
Needs excellent drainage in pots.
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Pygmy date palm
Water
Every 1-2 weeks
Sunlight
Full sun
Hardiness Zones
10 to 12
Planting Time
Spring, Fall
Download and print this plant care card and attach it to your plants
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Pygmy date palm
Water
Every 1-2 weeks
Sunlight
Full sun
Hardiness Zones
10 to 12
Planting Time
Spring, Fall
Download
Pygmy date palm
Water
Every 1-2 weeks
Sunlight
Full sun
Hardiness Zones
10 to 12
Planting Time
Spring, Fall
Download
Questions About Pygmy date palm
Watering 
Pruning 
Sunlight 
Temperature 
Fertilizing What is the best way to water my Pygmy date palm?
When you keep your Pygmy date palm indoors, the best way to water this plant is to apply water directly to the top layer of soil in the container. The water you use should be rainwater or distilled water and should be at or around room temperature. The best way to tell if your Pygmy date palm needs water is to poke your finger into the soil. If you notice that the first few inches of soil are dry, you should add enough water to moisten those layers and cause excess water to drain through the bottom of your plant’s container. When in doubt, it is always safer to underwater your Pygmy date palm, as overwatering is far more likely to cause fatal complications such as root rot. When growing the Pygmy date palm outdoors, the rainfall alone may provide all the water it needs. However, if you receive rain less than once per week during the growing season, you will likely need to provide some supplemental water to the soil as well. Again, rainwater or distilled water will work best for this plant whether it grows indoors or outdoors.
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What should I do if I water Pygmy date palm too much/too little?
Some signs that the plants are not getting enough water are the brown tips on the plant.
Due to lack of water, the leaves become wilted and drooping, appearing lifeless at the very beginning. The leaves can become brown, crispy, and start to dry out if the water shortage is severe. When this happens, water as soon as possible.
Another thing about overwatering is that if this happens, then root rot can begin to set in. You need to remove all the damaged roots from the soil, especially if they appear mushy, fragile, and black. To help with these issues, it's important to cut off a larger part of the root.
Overwatering can also leave the leaves looking brown and ready to fall off. This can happen very early, so you should drain the excess water and wait for the soil to dry before watering to help the plant recover.
Throw away the soil from the pot if there are signs of root rot. Clean everything thoroughly and make sure to put in the pebbles so it will help with proper drainage. Discard any excess water at the base of the pot if you notice tan rings or reddish-brown spots on the leaves. Check the plant's environment and make sure it is in a well-ventilated location so that the soil dries faster to prevent it from rotting again later.
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What should I do if I water my Pygmy date palm too much or too little?
Overwatering is the main issue to look out for when watering the Pygmy date palm, and there are several sure signs that will indicate when this problem has arrived. The Pygmy date palm that receives too much water will begin to develop brown, drooping leaves. The stems of the plant may also become mush and could produce a foul odor. Overwatering also leads to the common issue of root rot which can be fatal when unchecked. If you catch overwatering early enough, you may be able to resolve the issue by simply reducing your watering rate or by adding sand to the container to help improve soil drainage. In more severe overwatering cases, you will need to remove your Pygmy date palm from its container, remove any rotten roots, and repot it in a new container. You should use a similar method if you grow your Pygmy date palm outdoors and find that it is consistently receiving too much water. Again, soil drainage may be the cause, which is why you should consider transplanting your Pygmy date palm to a different outdoor growing location, preferably one with looser soils. Underwatered Pygmy date palm will exhibit drooping leaves as well, but they are more likely to be yellow than brown. You’ll also notice slower growth in the Pygmy date palm that does not receive enough water. If you see such signs, you’ll need to increase the frequency with which you water your Pygmy date palm.
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How often should I water my Pygmy date palm?
Typically, you will need to water your Pygmy date palm about once per week during the growing season, which takes place throughout spring, summer, and early fall. The specific conditions of your growing environment may alter the rate at which the soil in your plant’s container dries out. As such, it helps to know how to monitor the soil for moisture to determine the watering frequency, rather than relying on a strict once-per-week rule. At times, this can mean you may need to water multiple times per week or water about once every ten days during the growing season.
The same guidelines apply when you grow the Pygmy date palm outdoors. The only difference is that rainfall could affect your watering frequency. For example, if you receive about an inch or rainfall during the week, you should not add additional water as this could cause overwatering. You’ll also need to reduce your watering frequency during the winter when this plant is not putting forth as much active growth. In winter, you should allow the soil to dry out a bit more between waterings. Often this means watering your Pygmy date palm about once every other week or once every three to four weeks.
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How should I water my Pygmy date palm differently if I grow it indoors?
Since most gardeners grow Pygmy date palm indoors, they must be well prepared to alter their indoor growing environment to meet the needs of Pygmy date palm. The main issue with an indoor location is that it is likely not as humid as the Pygmy date palm would like. The quickest remedy for this is to run a humidifier in the room where your Pygmy date palm grows. You can also place this plant in your bathroom, a room that tends to be more humid than others, so long as there is enough light that reaches it. You should also monitor the effect of air conditioners and heating units in your indoor growing location, as those elements can cause the soil in the container of your Pygmy date palm to dry out more quickly, which will lead you to water it more often than you normally would. If you want to grow your Pygmy date palm outdoors, you should first ensure that you region provides the warmth and humidity that your Pygmy date palm needs. You should also be prepared to anticipate the natural rainfall, as weekly rain can be enough for your Pygmy date palm to survive.
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What should I consider when watering my Pygmy date palm in different seasons and growth periods?
The rate at which you supply water for your Pygmy date palm will change depending on the current season. During spring and summer, when this plant is in its most active growth stage, you should plan to give it water about once per week, altering that rate slightly in the case of extreme heat. During the late fall and winter, the growth of your Pygmy date palm will slow, which means it will need less water. In winter, you can give this plant water about once every two weeks or less. For outdoor plants, you probably won't need to water at all during the late fall and winter, as any natural rainfall will likely meet the lower water needs of your Pygmy date palm during this time. The Pygmy date palm typically does not offer a large display of flowers or fruits, and it also tends to maintain the same moderate to slow growth rate throughout its life, which means that its watering needs will remain relatively the same regardless of the plant’s age.
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More About How-Tos
Explore 5 of plant how-tos on Feng shui direction, Water, Lighting, Temperature, Transplant spacing, etc.
Feng shui direction
Northeast
The pygmy date palm aligns aptly with the Feng Shui philosophy owing to its soft fronds and harmonious growth pattern. Particularly when placed in the Northeast direction, it aids in enhancing personal growth and self-cultivation, adhering to Feng Shui's Earth element symbolism. This unique synchrony, however, is largely interpretive and may vary on an individual basis.
Water
Every 1-2 weeks
The pygmy date palm prefers moderately moist soil, but can tolerate short periods of drought. It benefits from regular watering, mimicking its native habitat of humid rainforest understory. Avoid overwatering and adapt watering to seasonal changes, reducing it during cooler months to prevent root rot.
Lighting
Full sun
The pygmy date palm thrives under intense sunlight exposure and sustains healthy growth, a characteristic traced to its original growing environment. Sunlight plays an integral role in shaping its growth throughout different stages. However, it can manage in areas with limited sun exposure. Insufficient or excessive light exposure may affect plant health adversely.
Temperature
10 to 35 ℃
The pygmy date palm grows natively in tropical regions and requires temperatures between 68 to 100 ℉ (20 to 38 ℃) for optimal growth. It prefers warm temperatures but can tolerate temperatures slightly below 68 ℉ (20 ℃) for short periods. During colder seasons, it's recommended to adjust indoor temperatures to a range of 64 to 74 ℉ (18 to 23 ℃) to maintain a healthy growth.
Transplant spacing
6-10 feet
The ideal season for transplanting pygmy date palm is early spring to mid-spring or late fall to late winter, as these cooler months support root establishment. Transplant pygmy date palm in a well-draining, sunny location for optimal growth. Remember to be gentle and supportive during the relocation process for a successful transplant.
Common Pests & Diseases
Common issues for Pygmy date palm based on 10 million real cases
Leaf scorch
Leaf blight causes leaves to dry out and turn brown starting at their tips.
Solutions: The solution to leaf scorch will depend on the cause, however, in general all cultural care methods that improve plant health and root functionality will reduce symptoms. Mulching the root zone (preferably with wood chip mulch) helps retain moisture, reduce evaporation, and promotes a healthy, functional root environment that is critical for water movement to the leaves. Check the root collar for girdling or circling roots that strangle the trunk and limit water and nutrient movement. Protect trees from severe root damage of nearby construction and excavation. If fertilizer burn is to blame, irrigate the soil deeply to flush out excess fertilizer salts. However, keep in mind that fertilizer runoff is an environmental pollutant. Avoiding excess fertilization in the first place is the best approach. If soil testing has revealed a potassium deficiency, apply a potassium fertilizer and water well. Even if you have enough potassium in the soil, plants will not be able to take it up if the soil is consistently too dry. Severely affected twigs may be removed using a pair of sharp and sanitized pruning shears, as weakened branches are susceptible to secondary infections. If your plant has bacterial leaf scorch, there is no cure. Antibiotic injections applied by a professional can reduce symptoms for a season, however, the above cultural management methods are the best options to reduce symptoms and prolong life. An infected plant will likely die within ten years.
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Fruit withering
Fungal infection or normal ripening can cause the fruit to dry out.
Solutions: There are a number of appropriate solutions to control fruit withering: Remove any fruit as soon as it shows any signs of infection. Do not compost. Use a fungicide prior to leaf bud and then as per manufacturers instructions throughout the season.
Leaf tips withering
Low air humidity can cause the edges of the leaves to dry out.
Solutions: If your plant has only a few dried tips, complete the following: Increase humidity. Increase the humidity around your plant by misting it with a spray bottle daily. Alternatively, you can use a humidifier. Water plant. If your soil is dry, water until the soil is moist but not damp. Water again when soil dries out. If a large portion of the leaves is suffering from dry tips, complete the following: Prune away affected tissue. Using sharp and clean pruning shears, remove the dried out tips using clean cuts to avoid harming healthy tissue. Plant tissue will heal on its own, but you can apply a pruning seal for extra protection.
Nutrient deficiencies
A lack of nutrients will cause a widespread yellowing of the leaves. The yellowing may begin at the base or top of the plant.
Solutions: There are several easy ways to remedy the nutrient deficiencies in soils. Use a water-soluble fertilizer. Fertilizers will include most or all of the macro and micro-nutrients the plants need to thrive. Adding some fertilizer to the soil will make those nutrients available and can combat deficiencies. Regularly apply organic fertilizer pellets. Organic fertilizers such as animal manures and bonemeal can supply plants with all the nutrients that they need to grow strong and healthy. Apply compost. Though not as finely tuned as artificial fertilizer, compost can nevertheless be rich in important nutrients and should be applied to the soil regularly. Apply nutrients via foliar application. In addition to supplementing the soil with nutrients, foliar fertilizer can be applied directly to the plant's leaves. Nutrients offered via foliar application are often taken up even quicker than those put in the soil, so the foliar application can be great for swiftly addressing specific deficiencies.
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Leaf scorch
Leaf blight causes leaves to dry out and turn brown starting at their tips.
Overview
Leaf scorch refers to two general conditions: physiological leaf scorch and bacterial leaf scorch. It causes leaves to discolor starting along the margins, and eventually die.
Leaf scorch development is most common in the hot, dry season, becoming most noticeable in late summer. However, it can occur at other times of the year. It most often affects young trees and shrubs, but it can also affect flowers, vegetables, and other plants.
Leaf scorch can get progressively worse over multiple seasons. If the root causes are not addressed, leaf scorch can lead to plant death.
While you cannot reverse the damage caused by physiological leaf scorch, you can prevent further damage. With proper management, plants will fully recover. However, there is no cure for bacterial leaf scorch, which is a systemic infection.
Symptom Analysis
- Yellow, brown, or blackened leaves starting with the leaf margins
- Dying twig tips on trees and shrubs as leaves die and fall
- Often there is a bright yellow border line between the dead and living leaf tissue
Disease Cause
There are numerous contributing causes of leaf scorch.
Bacterial leaf scorch is caused by the bacterium Xylella fastidiosa. The bacteria block the xylem vessels, preventing water movement. Symptoms may vary across species.
Physiological leaf scorch most commonly occurs when a plant cannot take up enough water. Numerous conditions can lead to this issue, particularly an unhealthy root system. Some causes of an unhealthy root system include overly-compacted soil, recent tillage, root compaction and severing due to pavement or other construction, drought, and overly-saturated soils.
Potassium deficiency can contribute to leaf scorch. Since plants need potassium to move water, they cannot properly move water when there is a lack of potassium.
Too much fertilizer can also cause leaf scorch symptoms. The accumulation of salts (including nutrient salts from fertilizers, as well as salt water) accumulate at the leaf margins and may build up to concentrations that burn the tissues.
Solutions
The solution to leaf scorch will depend on the cause, however, in general all cultural care methods that improve plant health and root functionality will reduce symptoms.
- Mulching the root zone (preferably with wood chip mulch) helps retain moisture, reduce evaporation, and promotes a healthy, functional root environment that is critical for water movement to the leaves.
- Check the root collar for girdling or circling roots that strangle the trunk and limit water and nutrient movement.
- Protect trees from severe root damage of nearby construction and excavation.
- If fertilizer burn is to blame, irrigate the soil deeply to flush out excess fertilizer salts. However, keep in mind that fertilizer runoff is an environmental pollutant. Avoiding excess fertilization in the first place is the best approach.
- If soil testing has revealed a potassium deficiency, apply a potassium fertilizer and water well. Even if you have enough potassium in the soil, plants will not be able to take it up if the soil is consistently too dry.
- Severely affected twigs may be removed using a pair of sharp and sanitized pruning shears, as weakened branches are susceptible to secondary infections.
- If your plant has bacterial leaf scorch, there is no cure. Antibiotic injections applied by a professional can reduce symptoms for a season, however, the above cultural management methods are the best options to reduce symptoms and prolong life. An infected plant will likely die within ten years.
Prevention
- Physiological leaf scorch is best avoided by making sure your plants have a healthy, functional root system and access to enough water. Water regularly, especially on the mornings of excessively hot, sunny days. Deep, infrequent irrigation is better than shallow, frequent irrigation.
- Have your soil tested and apply the proper nutrients. Be sure to not over-apply fertilizers.
- Make sure your plants’ roots have room to expand. Avoid compacted soil as well and avoid paving areas above the root zone. Do not till or disturb the soil where plant roots are growing.
- Plant new trees and shrubs in the fall, so that they have the maximum amount of time to become established before the environmental stresses of the next summer.
- Remove any dead or dying plant tissue that may harbor secondary infections.
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
- Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
- Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
- May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
- Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
- Leaf margins may turn yellow.
- Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
- Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
- The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
- Partial or complete premature defoliation
- Reduced growth
- Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
- Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
- Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
- Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
- Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
- Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
- Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
- Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
- Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
- Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
- Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.
Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.
Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.
Solutions
If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Prevention
Unfortunately, there is no way to prevent plants from dying of “old age.” To help prolong their life, and put off symptoms of aged yellow and dry for as long as possible, take care of them by giving them enough water, fertilizing them appropriately, and making sure they get enough sunlight.
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Fruit withering
Fungal infection or normal ripening can cause the fruit to dry out.
Overview
Fruit withering is common on many tree fruits, including apples, pears, peaches, cherries, and plums, as well as fruiting shrubs. It is caused by a fungal pathogen and will result in wrinkled and desiccated fruit.
Symptom Analysis
Here are the most common symptoms in the order that they are likely to occur.
- Both leaves and blossom on the tips of branches will go brown and wither.
- Gray powdery patches will appear on infected leaves and flowers, and this will be most apparent after rain.
- Any fruit that does appear will turn wrinkled and fail to develop.
- Branch tips begin to die, progressing back to larger branches, causing general deterioration of the tree or plant.
Disease Cause
The withering is caused by one of two fungal pathogens, one called Monilina laxa and the other called M. fructigen. The spores overwinter on infected plant material and are then spread the following spring by wind, rain, or animal vectors. The problem will start to become noticeable in mid-spring, but will increase in severity as summer progresses and the fungus grows. If not addressed, the disease will intensify and spread to other plants in the vicinity.
Solutions
There are a number of appropriate solutions to control fruit withering:
- Remove any fruit as soon as it shows any signs of infection. Do not compost.
- Use a fungicide prior to leaf bud and then as per manufacturers instructions throughout the season.
Prevention
Preventative measures include:
- Ensuring adequate spacing between plants or trees.
- Staking plants that are prone to tumbling to prevent moisture or humidity build up.
- Prune correctly so that there is adequate air movement and remove any dead or diseased branches that may carry spores.
- Practice good plant hygiene by removing fallen material and destroying it as soon as possible.
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Leaf tips withering
Low air humidity can cause the edges of the leaves to dry out.
Symptom Analysis
The tips and the edges of the plants’ leaves are dried out and brown. They may be crunchy when touched. This is caused by low humidity and/or a lack of water.
Solutions
If your plant has only a few dried tips, complete the following:
- Increase humidity. Increase the humidity around your plant by misting it with a spray bottle daily. Alternatively, you can use a humidifier.
- Water plant. If your soil is dry, water until the soil is moist but not damp. Water again when soil dries out.
If a large portion of the leaves is suffering from dry tips, complete the following:
- Prune away affected tissue. Using sharp and clean pruning shears, remove the dried out tips using clean cuts to avoid harming healthy tissue. Plant tissue will heal on its own, but you can apply a pruning seal for extra protection.
Prevention
Many houseplants come from moist tropical areas with high humidity.
To prevent dry and brown tips, you should complete the following:
- Water regularly. Water when soil is dry.
- Keep humidity high. Keep moisture high by regularly misting the air or using a humidifier.
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Nutrient deficiencies
A lack of nutrients will cause a widespread yellowing of the leaves. The yellowing may begin at the base or top of the plant.
Overview
Nutrient deficiencies can be seen in many different ways on plants. Basically, the lack of nutrients will inhibit plant growth, produce weak stems and leaves, and leave plants open to infection from pests and diseases. Plants use the nutrients from the soil to help them with photosynthesis. This, in turn, produces healthy plant growth. Plants that lack adequate amounts of nutrients will look lackluster and unhealthy. Eventually, if this is not addressed, it will cause the plants to die. The most important nutrients that plants need are nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, and sulfur. Additionally, plants require small amounts of micronutrients such as iron, boron, manganese, zinc, copper, and molybdenum.
Symptom Analysis
A common sign that plants are experiencing nutrient deficiencies is the yellowing of leaves. This may be an overall yellowing or leaves that are yellow but still have green veins. These leaves will eventually brown off and die.
Another sign is the loss of plant vigor. The plants may not be growing as well as they should or their growth may be stunted.
Below are some common symptoms that appear when plants are lacking in nutrients.
Nitrogen (N): Inner, older leaves yellow first. If the deficiency is severe, yellowing progresses outward to newer growth.
Potassium (K): Leaf edges may turn brown and crinkly, with a yellowing layer forming just inside of the edge. Older leaves tend to be impacted first.
Phosphorus (P): Lack of vigorous growth. Plants will appear stunted.
Zinc (Zn): Yellowing tends to occur first at the base of the leaf.
Copper (Cu): Newer leaves begin to yellow first, with older leaves yellowing only if the deficiency becomes severe.
Boron (B): Newer leaves are impacted first. Foliage may also become particularly brittle in cases of boron deficiency.
Disease Cause
There are several factors that can lead to nutrient deficiencies, a situation where plants are not receiving the nutrients that they need. This could be because they are planted in nutrient-deficient soils, or that the soil's pH is too high or low. Incorrect soil pH can lock up certain nutrients, thus making them unavailable to plants. Lack of soil moisture can also be a problem, because plants need water to be able to absorb the nutrients from the soil.
Solutions
There are several easy ways to remedy the nutrient deficiencies in soils.
- Use a water-soluble fertilizer. Fertilizers will include most or all of the macro and micro-nutrients the plants need to thrive. Adding some fertilizer to the soil will make those nutrients available and can combat deficiencies.
- Regularly apply organic fertilizer pellets. Organic fertilizers such as animal manures and bonemeal can supply plants with all the nutrients that they need to grow strong and healthy.
- Apply compost. Though not as finely tuned as artificial fertilizer, compost can nevertheless be rich in important nutrients and should be applied to the soil regularly.
- Apply nutrients via foliar application. In addition to supplementing the soil with nutrients, foliar fertilizer can be applied directly to the plant's leaves. Nutrients offered via foliar application are often taken up even quicker than those put in the soil, so the foliar application can be great for swiftly addressing specific deficiencies.
Prevention
There are several easy ways to prevent nutrient deficiencies in plants.
- Regular fertilizing. Regular addition of fertilizer to the soil is one of the simplest and most effective ways to prevent deficiencies.
- Proper watering. Both over and under watering can adversely impact a plant's roots, which in turn makes it harder for them to properly take up nutrients.
- Testing the soil's pH. A soil's acidity or alkalinity will impact the degree to which certain nutrients are available to be taken up by plants. Knowing the soil's pH means it can be amended to suit the needs of the individual plants.
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Distribution Map
Habitat
Gardens in tropical and subtropical climate areas
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
More Info
Plant Type
Palm
Flower Color
Yellow
Cream
Bloom Time
Summer
Leaf Color
Green
Name story
Pygmy date palm||Dwarf date palm
This plant is known as a date palm due to its often sweet, sugary fruit pulp found in some species of Arecaceae. Since it is shorter in height than the regular date palm, it is called Pygmy date palm or dwarf date palm.
Symbolism
Life and fertility, freedom, righteousness, victory, reward, and resurrection, also longevity, good luck
Usages
Garden Use
Pygmy date palm is a popular tree prized for its short stature and green drooping fronds. It is commonly used as a focal point in landscaping and is an essential plant in tropical gardens. Plant it with foxtail fern for texture or add color with pentas, bromeliads, dwarf oysters, and other shade-loving plants.
Scientific Classification
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Bloom Time
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Garden Usage
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Bloom Time
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Add to My Garden Pygmy date palm
Phoenix roebelenii
Also known as: Dwarf date palm, Robellini
Pygmy date palm (Phoenix roebelenii) is a palm species native to China, Laos, and Vietnam. Pygmy date palm is commonly cultivated as an indoor houseplant. This plant requires direct sunlight for optimal growth. In nature, it grows alongside rivers.
Water
Every 1-2 weeks
Sunlight
Full sun
Care Guide for Pygmy date palm
Water
Pygmy date palm prefers moist and well-drained soil. Gardeners should water plants deeply at a depth of 2 feet to maintain moisture. During its growth season, gardeners should keep the soil moist but not sodden. Excessive water with poor drainage can cause Pygmy date palm to suffer from root rot.
Fertilization
Pygmy date palm can be fertilized prior to its growth cycle and a month before the first frost. Fertilization can promote leaf growth and help avoid mineral deficiencies. It can be treated with a palm tree fertilizer.
Pruning
Trim the diseased, withered leaves once a month.
Soil
Sand, Loam, Clay, Chalky, Acidic, Neutral, Alkaline
Potting Suggestions
Needs excellent drainage in pots.
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Questions About Pygmy date palm
Watering Pruning Sunlight Temperature Fertilizing What is the best way to water my Pygmy date palm?
What should I do if I water Pygmy date palm too much/too little?
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How should I water my Pygmy date palm differently if I grow it indoors?
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Common Pests & Diseases
Common issues for Pygmy date palm based on 10 million real cases
Leaf scorch
Leaf blight causes leaves to dry out and turn brown starting at their tips.
Solutions: The solution to leaf scorch will depend on the cause, however, in general all cultural care methods that improve plant health and root functionality will reduce symptoms. Mulching the root zone (preferably with wood chip mulch) helps retain moisture, reduce evaporation, and promotes a healthy, functional root environment that is critical for water movement to the leaves. Check the root collar for girdling or circling roots that strangle the trunk and limit water and nutrient movement. Protect trees from severe root damage of nearby construction and excavation. If fertilizer burn is to blame, irrigate the soil deeply to flush out excess fertilizer salts. However, keep in mind that fertilizer runoff is an environmental pollutant. Avoiding excess fertilization in the first place is the best approach. If soil testing has revealed a potassium deficiency, apply a potassium fertilizer and water well. Even if you have enough potassium in the soil, plants will not be able to take it up if the soil is consistently too dry. Severely affected twigs may be removed using a pair of sharp and sanitized pruning shears, as weakened branches are susceptible to secondary infections. If your plant has bacterial leaf scorch, there is no cure. Antibiotic injections applied by a professional can reduce symptoms for a season, however, the above cultural management methods are the best options to reduce symptoms and prolong life. An infected plant will likely die within ten years.
Learn More ![more]()
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Learn More ![more]()
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Learn More ![more]()
Fruit withering
Fungal infection or normal ripening can cause the fruit to dry out.
Solutions: There are a number of appropriate solutions to control fruit withering: Remove any fruit as soon as it shows any signs of infection. Do not compost. Use a fungicide prior to leaf bud and then as per manufacturers instructions throughout the season.
Learn More ![more]()
Leaf tips withering
Low air humidity can cause the edges of the leaves to dry out.
Solutions: If your plant has only a few dried tips, complete the following: Increase humidity. Increase the humidity around your plant by misting it with a spray bottle daily. Alternatively, you can use a humidifier. Water plant. If your soil is dry, water until the soil is moist but not damp. Water again when soil dries out. If a large portion of the leaves is suffering from dry tips, complete the following: Prune away affected tissue. Using sharp and clean pruning shears, remove the dried out tips using clean cuts to avoid harming healthy tissue. Plant tissue will heal on its own, but you can apply a pruning seal for extra protection.
Learn More ![more]()
Nutrient deficiencies
A lack of nutrients will cause a widespread yellowing of the leaves. The yellowing may begin at the base or top of the plant.
Solutions: There are several easy ways to remedy the nutrient deficiencies in soils. Use a water-soluble fertilizer. Fertilizers will include most or all of the macro and micro-nutrients the plants need to thrive. Adding some fertilizer to the soil will make those nutrients available and can combat deficiencies. Regularly apply organic fertilizer pellets. Organic fertilizers such as animal manures and bonemeal can supply plants with all the nutrients that they need to grow strong and healthy. Apply compost. Though not as finely tuned as artificial fertilizer, compost can nevertheless be rich in important nutrients and should be applied to the soil regularly. Apply nutrients via foliar application. In addition to supplementing the soil with nutrients, foliar fertilizer can be applied directly to the plant's leaves. Nutrients offered via foliar application are often taken up even quicker than those put in the soil, so the foliar application can be great for swiftly addressing specific deficiencies.
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Leaf scorch
Leaf blight causes leaves to dry out and turn brown starting at their tips.
Overview
Leaf scorch refers to two general conditions: physiological leaf scorch and bacterial leaf scorch. It causes leaves to discolor starting along the margins, and eventually die.
Leaf scorch development is most common in the hot, dry season, becoming most noticeable in late summer. However, it can occur at other times of the year. It most often affects young trees and shrubs, but it can also affect flowers, vegetables, and other plants.
Leaf scorch can get progressively worse over multiple seasons. If the root causes are not addressed, leaf scorch can lead to plant death.
While you cannot reverse the damage caused by physiological leaf scorch, you can prevent further damage. With proper management, plants will fully recover. However, there is no cure for bacterial leaf scorch, which is a systemic infection.
Symptom Analysis
- Yellow, brown, or blackened leaves starting with the leaf margins
- Dying twig tips on trees and shrubs as leaves die and fall
- Often there is a bright yellow border line between the dead and living leaf tissue
Disease Cause
There are numerous contributing causes of leaf scorch.
Bacterial leaf scorch is caused by the bacterium Xylella fastidiosa. The bacteria block the xylem vessels, preventing water movement. Symptoms may vary across species.
Physiological leaf scorch most commonly occurs when a plant cannot take up enough water. Numerous conditions can lead to this issue, particularly an unhealthy root system. Some causes of an unhealthy root system include overly-compacted soil, recent tillage, root compaction and severing due to pavement or other construction, drought, and overly-saturated soils.
Potassium deficiency can contribute to leaf scorch. Since plants need potassium to move water, they cannot properly move water when there is a lack of potassium.
Too much fertilizer can also cause leaf scorch symptoms. The accumulation of salts (including nutrient salts from fertilizers, as well as salt water) accumulate at the leaf margins and may build up to concentrations that burn the tissues.
Solutions
The solution to leaf scorch will depend on the cause, however, in general all cultural care methods that improve plant health and root functionality will reduce symptoms.
- Mulching the root zone (preferably with wood chip mulch) helps retain moisture, reduce evaporation, and promotes a healthy, functional root environment that is critical for water movement to the leaves.
- Check the root collar for girdling or circling roots that strangle the trunk and limit water and nutrient movement.
- Protect trees from severe root damage of nearby construction and excavation.
- If fertilizer burn is to blame, irrigate the soil deeply to flush out excess fertilizer salts. However, keep in mind that fertilizer runoff is an environmental pollutant. Avoiding excess fertilization in the first place is the best approach.
- If soil testing has revealed a potassium deficiency, apply a potassium fertilizer and water well. Even if you have enough potassium in the soil, plants will not be able to take it up if the soil is consistently too dry.
- Severely affected twigs may be removed using a pair of sharp and sanitized pruning shears, as weakened branches are susceptible to secondary infections.
- If your plant has bacterial leaf scorch, there is no cure. Antibiotic injections applied by a professional can reduce symptoms for a season, however, the above cultural management methods are the best options to reduce symptoms and prolong life. An infected plant will likely die within ten years.
Prevention
- Physiological leaf scorch is best avoided by making sure your plants have a healthy, functional root system and access to enough water. Water regularly, especially on the mornings of excessively hot, sunny days. Deep, infrequent irrigation is better than shallow, frequent irrigation.
- Have your soil tested and apply the proper nutrients. Be sure to not over-apply fertilizers.
- Make sure your plants’ roots have room to expand. Avoid compacted soil as well and avoid paving areas above the root zone. Do not till or disturb the soil where plant roots are growing.
- Plant new trees and shrubs in the fall, so that they have the maximum amount of time to become established before the environmental stresses of the next summer.
- Remove any dead or dying plant tissue that may harbor secondary infections.
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
- Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
- Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
- May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
- Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
- Leaf margins may turn yellow.
- Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
- Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
- The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
- Partial or complete premature defoliation
- Reduced growth
- Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
- Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
- Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
- Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
- Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
- Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
- Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
- Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
- Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
- Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
- Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.
Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.
Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.
Solutions
If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Prevention
Unfortunately, there is no way to prevent plants from dying of “old age.” To help prolong their life, and put off symptoms of aged yellow and dry for as long as possible, take care of them by giving them enough water, fertilizing them appropriately, and making sure they get enough sunlight.
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Fruit withering
Fungal infection or normal ripening can cause the fruit to dry out.
Overview
Fruit withering is common on many tree fruits, including apples, pears, peaches, cherries, and plums, as well as fruiting shrubs. It is caused by a fungal pathogen and will result in wrinkled and desiccated fruit.
Symptom Analysis
Here are the most common symptoms in the order that they are likely to occur.
- Both leaves and blossom on the tips of branches will go brown and wither.
- Gray powdery patches will appear on infected leaves and flowers, and this will be most apparent after rain.
- Any fruit that does appear will turn wrinkled and fail to develop.
- Branch tips begin to die, progressing back to larger branches, causing general deterioration of the tree or plant.
Disease Cause
The withering is caused by one of two fungal pathogens, one called Monilina laxa and the other called M. fructigen. The spores overwinter on infected plant material and are then spread the following spring by wind, rain, or animal vectors. The problem will start to become noticeable in mid-spring, but will increase in severity as summer progresses and the fungus grows. If not addressed, the disease will intensify and spread to other plants in the vicinity.
Solutions
There are a number of appropriate solutions to control fruit withering:
- Remove any fruit as soon as it shows any signs of infection. Do not compost.
- Use a fungicide prior to leaf bud and then as per manufacturers instructions throughout the season.
Prevention
Preventative measures include:
- Ensuring adequate spacing between plants or trees.
- Staking plants that are prone to tumbling to prevent moisture or humidity build up.
- Prune correctly so that there is adequate air movement and remove any dead or diseased branches that may carry spores.
- Practice good plant hygiene by removing fallen material and destroying it as soon as possible.
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Leaf tips withering
Low air humidity can cause the edges of the leaves to dry out.
Symptom Analysis
The tips and the edges of the plants’ leaves are dried out and brown. They may be crunchy when touched. This is caused by low humidity and/or a lack of water.
Solutions
If your plant has only a few dried tips, complete the following:
- Increase humidity. Increase the humidity around your plant by misting it with a spray bottle daily. Alternatively, you can use a humidifier.
- Water plant. If your soil is dry, water until the soil is moist but not damp. Water again when soil dries out.
If a large portion of the leaves is suffering from dry tips, complete the following:
- Prune away affected tissue. Using sharp and clean pruning shears, remove the dried out tips using clean cuts to avoid harming healthy tissue. Plant tissue will heal on its own, but you can apply a pruning seal for extra protection.
Prevention
Many houseplants come from moist tropical areas with high humidity.
To prevent dry and brown tips, you should complete the following:
- Water regularly. Water when soil is dry.
- Keep humidity high. Keep moisture high by regularly misting the air or using a humidifier.
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Nutrient deficiencies
A lack of nutrients will cause a widespread yellowing of the leaves. The yellowing may begin at the base or top of the plant.
Overview
Nutrient deficiencies can be seen in many different ways on plants. Basically, the lack of nutrients will inhibit plant growth, produce weak stems and leaves, and leave plants open to infection from pests and diseases. Plants use the nutrients from the soil to help them with photosynthesis. This, in turn, produces healthy plant growth. Plants that lack adequate amounts of nutrients will look lackluster and unhealthy. Eventually, if this is not addressed, it will cause the plants to die. The most important nutrients that plants need are nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, and sulfur. Additionally, plants require small amounts of micronutrients such as iron, boron, manganese, zinc, copper, and molybdenum.
Symptom Analysis
A common sign that plants are experiencing nutrient deficiencies is the yellowing of leaves. This may be an overall yellowing or leaves that are yellow but still have green veins. These leaves will eventually brown off and die.
Another sign is the loss of plant vigor. The plants may not be growing as well as they should or their growth may be stunted.
Below are some common symptoms that appear when plants are lacking in nutrients.
Nitrogen (N): Inner, older leaves yellow first. If the deficiency is severe, yellowing progresses outward to newer growth.
Potassium (K): Leaf edges may turn brown and crinkly, with a yellowing layer forming just inside of the edge. Older leaves tend to be impacted first.
Phosphorus (P): Lack of vigorous growth. Plants will appear stunted.
Zinc (Zn): Yellowing tends to occur first at the base of the leaf.
Copper (Cu): Newer leaves begin to yellow first, with older leaves yellowing only if the deficiency becomes severe.
Boron (B): Newer leaves are impacted first. Foliage may also become particularly brittle in cases of boron deficiency.
Disease Cause
There are several factors that can lead to nutrient deficiencies, a situation where plants are not receiving the nutrients that they need. This could be because they are planted in nutrient-deficient soils, or that the soil's pH is too high or low. Incorrect soil pH can lock up certain nutrients, thus making them unavailable to plants. Lack of soil moisture can also be a problem, because plants need water to be able to absorb the nutrients from the soil.
Solutions
There are several easy ways to remedy the nutrient deficiencies in soils.
- Use a water-soluble fertilizer. Fertilizers will include most or all of the macro and micro-nutrients the plants need to thrive. Adding some fertilizer to the soil will make those nutrients available and can combat deficiencies.
- Regularly apply organic fertilizer pellets. Organic fertilizers such as animal manures and bonemeal can supply plants with all the nutrients that they need to grow strong and healthy.
- Apply compost. Though not as finely tuned as artificial fertilizer, compost can nevertheless be rich in important nutrients and should be applied to the soil regularly.
- Apply nutrients via foliar application. In addition to supplementing the soil with nutrients, foliar fertilizer can be applied directly to the plant's leaves. Nutrients offered via foliar application are often taken up even quicker than those put in the soil, so the foliar application can be great for swiftly addressing specific deficiencies.
Prevention
There are several easy ways to prevent nutrient deficiencies in plants.
- Regular fertilizing. Regular addition of fertilizer to the soil is one of the simplest and most effective ways to prevent deficiencies.
- Proper watering. Both over and under watering can adversely impact a plant's roots, which in turn makes it harder for them to properly take up nutrients.
- Testing the soil's pH. A soil's acidity or alkalinity will impact the degree to which certain nutrients are available to be taken up by plants. Knowing the soil's pH means it can be amended to suit the needs of the individual plants.
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Distribution Map
Habitat
Gardens in tropical and subtropical climate areas
Map
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
More Info
Plant Type
Palm
Flower Color
Yellow
Cream
Bloom Time
Summer
Leaf Color
Green
Name story
Pygmy date palm||Dwarf date palm
This plant is known as a date palm due to its often sweet, sugary fruit pulp found in some species of Arecaceae. Since it is shorter in height than the regular date palm, it is called Pygmy date palm or dwarf date palm.
Symbolism
Life and fertility, freedom, righteousness, victory, reward, and resurrection, also longevity, good luck
Usages
Garden Use
Pygmy date palm is a popular tree prized for its short stature and green drooping fronds. It is commonly used as a focal point in landscaping and is an essential plant in tropical gardens. Plant it with foxtail fern for texture or add color with pentas, bromeliads, dwarf oysters, and other shade-loving plants.
Scientific Classification
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Water
Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor potted
In the ground
Choose a site here for personalized care tips. Essentials
The pygmy date palm prefers moderately moist soil, but can tolerate short periods of drought. It benefits from regular watering, mimicking its native habitat of humid rainforest understory. Avoid overwatering and adapt watering to seasonal changes, reducing it during cooler months to prevent root rot.
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Spring
Summer
Autumn
Winter
Morning
Noonday
Evening
Morning watering can reduce the risk of fungal growth. Requirements
Every 1-2 weeks
Watering Frequency
Smart Seasonal Watering
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Just like people, each plant has its own preferences and needs. Devote time to understanding your plants so you can nurture them properly. Observe your plants attentively, learning from their growth patterns, and becoming more in tune with their needs as you grow together. Keep a watchful eye on new plants and seedlings, as they are sensitive to both overwatering and underwatering. Shower them with gentle love and attention, fostering their growth and strength. Let the rhythm of your local climate guide your watering habits, adapting your schedule to the changing weather and the needs of your plants. Amount and Approach
Watering from the soil
1. Gradually pour water to the soil from above.
2. Stop watering your plant once water begins to flow out of the drainage holes in the pot.
3. Allow it to rest for 1 minute, then discard any water remaining in the tray, making sure your plant is not sitting in the water.
Avoid watering the leaves or flowers. Use a watering can with a long spout when watering to reduce bending and exertion, and ease your fatigue. Watering from the bottom
1. Fill the tray with water, ensure that the soil makes contact with the water.
2. Let it rest for 10 minutes.
3. Drain excess water from the tray if the soil is uniformly damp.
4. Watering more to the tray if the soil remains dry.
5. Allow it to sit for an additional 20 minutes before draining any excess water.
Avoid watering the leaves or flowers. Use a watering can with a long spout when watering to reduce bending and exertion, and ease your fatigue. Soaking the water
1. Select a location for soaking your plants, such as a tray or bathtub.
2. Pour a few centimeters of fresh water into the bottom of your chosen container.
3. Soaking your plant pots within the water, allowing them to absorb moisture for 1 hour.
4. Remove the plants from the water and let them dry.
Avoid watering the leaves or flowers. Use a watering can with a long spout when watering to reduce bending and exertion, and ease your fatigue. For Pygmy date palm, outdoor watering can be done using a sprinkler head. This involves using a sprinkler or hose nozzle to evenly spray water over the surface of the plant's soil. The sprinkler head can be adjusted to control the flow of water and the spray range, catering to the watering needs of different-sized plants. Keep them running for 10-20 minutes to ensure that water adequately penetrates the soil.
Important Symptoms
Overwatering
Pygmy date palm is more susceptible to developing disease symptoms when overwatered because it prefers a soil environment with moderate humidity. Symptoms of overwatering include yellowing leaves, brown or black spots, root rot...
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Yellowing leaves
When plants receive too much water, the roots become oxygen deprived and the bottom leaves of the plant gradually turn yellow.
Brown or black spots
Excessive watering can damage the plant's root system, making it vulnerable to fungal infections. The plant may develop dark brown to black spots that spread upwards from the lower leaves which are usually the first to be affected.
Root rot
Excess water in the soil can lead to the growth of harmful fungi and bacteria, causing the roots to rot and eventually kill the plant.
Stunted growth
Overwatering can reduce nutrient uptake and hinder plant growth, causing it to become stunted as the roots struggle to absorb the necessary nutrients.
Increased susceptibility diseases
Overwatering plants may become more susceptible and diseases as their overall health declines, weakening their natural defenses.
Solutions
1. Adjust watering frequency based on seasons and soil dryness. Wait for soil to dry before watering.2. Increase soil aeration by loosening surface and gently stirring with a wooden stick or chopstick.3. Optimize environment with good ventilation and warmth to enhance water evaporation and prevent overwatering.
Underwatering
Pygmy date palm is more susceptible to plant health issues when lacking watering, as it can only tolerate short periods of drought. Symptoms of dehydration include wilting, leaf curling, yellowing leaves...
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Wilting
Due to the dry soil and insufficient water absorption by the roots, the leaves of the plant will appear limp, droopy, and lose vitality.
Yellowing leaves
The leaves may begin to yellow or develop dry tips as a result of water stress and reduced nutrient uptake.
Loss of turgor pressure
When plants are underwatered, their cells lose water, causing a loss of turgor pressure. This can result in the plant appearing limp or deflated.
Root damage
Prolonged underwatering can cause root damage, making it difficult for the plant to absorb water even when it is available.
Dying plant
If underwatering continues for an extended period, the plant may ultimately die as a result of severe water stress and an inability to carry out essential functions.
Solutions
1. Thoroughly saturate soil with slow ring watering to ensure uniform and sufficient moisture for plants. 2. Increase air humidity with water trays or misting to slow leaf water evaporation. 3. Watering according to the recommended frequency.Adjust watering frequency based on seasons and soil dryness.
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Lighting
Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
Choose a site here for personalized care tips. Requirements
Full sun
Ideal
Above 6 hours sunlight
Partial sun
Tolerance
About 3-6 hours sunlight
Watch how sunlight gracefully moves through your garden, and choose spots that provide the perfect balance of light and shade for your plants, ensuring their happiness. Essentials
The pygmy date palm thrives under intense sunlight exposure and sustains healthy growth, a characteristic traced to its original growing environment. Sunlight plays an integral role in shaping its growth throughout different stages. However, it can manage in areas with limited sun exposure. Insufficient or excessive light exposure may affect plant health adversely.
Preferred
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Artificial lighting
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
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Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
Important Symptoms
Insufficient light
Pygmy date palm thrives in full sunlight but can tolerate partial shade. However, when cultivated indoors during winter, it's often placed in rooms with insufficient lighting, leading to easily noticeable symptoms of light deficiency.
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Slower or no new growth
Pygmy date palm enters a survival mode when light conditions are poor, which leads to a halt in leaf production. As a result, the plant's growth becomes delayed or stops altogether.
Lighter-colored new leaves
Insufficient sunlight can cause leaves to develop irregular color patterns or appear pale. This indicates a lack of chlorophyll and essential nutrients.
Faster leaf drop
When plants are exposed to low light conditions, they tend to shed older leaves early to conserve resources. Within a limited time, these resources can be utilized to grow new leaves until the plant's energy reserves are depleted.
Solutions
1. To ensure optimal growth, gradually move plants to a sunnier location each week, until they receive at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Use a south-facing window and keep curtains open during the day for maximum sunlight exposure and nutrient accumulation.2. To provide additional light for your plant, consider using artificial light if it's large or not easily movable. Keep a desk or ceiling lamp on for at least 8 hours daily, or invest in professional plant grow lights for ample light.
Excessive light
Pygmy date palm thrives in full sun exposure but can also tolerate partial shade. They have a remarkable resilience to intense sunlight, and symptoms of sunburn may not be easily visible.
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Chlorosis
Chlorosis is a condition where the plant's leaves lose their green color and turn yellow. This is due to the breakdown of chlorophyll from excessive sunlight, which negatively affects the plant's ability to photosynthesize.
Sunscald
Sunscald occurs when the plant's leaves or stems are damaged by intense sunlight exposure. It appears as pale, bleached, or necrotic areas on the plant tissue and can reduce the plant's overall health.
Leaf Curling
Leaf curling is a symptom where leaves curl or twist under extreme sunlight conditions. This is a defense mechanism used by the plant to reduce its surface area exposed to sunlight, minimizing water loss and damage.
Wilting
Wilting occurs when a plant loses turgor pressure and its leaves and stems begin to droop. Overexposure to sunlight can cause wilting by increasing the plant's water loss through transpiration, making it difficult for the plant to maintain adequate hydration.
Leaf Scorching
Leaf scorching is a symptom characterized by the appearance of brown, dry, and crispy edges or patches on leaves due to excessive sunlight. This can lead to a reduction in photosynthetic capacity and overall plant health.
Solutions
1. Move your plant to the optimal position where it can receive abundant sunlight but also have some shade. An east-facing window is an ideal choice as the morning sunlight is gentler. This way, your plant can enjoy ample sunlight while reducing the risk of sunburn.2. It is recommended to trim off any completely dehydrated or withered parts of the plant.
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Temperature
Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
Choose a site here for personalized care tips. Requirements
Ideal
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Just like people, each plant has its own preferences. Learn about your plants' temperature needs and create a comforting environment for them to flourish. As you care for your plants, your bond with them will deepen. Trust your intuition as you learn about their temperature needs, celebrating the journey you share. Lovingly monitor the temperature around your plants and adjust their environment as needed. A thermometer can be your ally in this heartfelt endeavor. Be patient and gentle with yourself as you explore your plants' temperature needs. Cherish your successes, learn from challenges, and nurture your garden with love, creating a haven that reflects the warmth of your care. Essentials
The pygmy date palm grows natively in tropical regions and requires temperatures between 68 to 100 ℉ (20 to 38 ℃) for optimal growth. It prefers warm temperatures but can tolerate temperatures slightly below 68 ℉ (20 ℃) for short periods. During colder seasons, it's recommended to adjust indoor temperatures to a range of 64 to 74 ℉ (18 to 23 ℃) to maintain a healthy growth.
Regional wintering strategies
Pygmy date palm is extremely heat-loving, and any cold temperatures can cause harm to it. In the autumn, it is recommended to bring outdoor-grown Pygmy date palm indoors and place it near a bright window, but it should be kept at a certain distance from heaters. Maintaining temperatures above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min} during winter is beneficial for plant growth. Any temperatures approaching {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min} are detrimental to the plant.
Important Symptoms
Low Temperature
Pygmy date palm prefers warm temperatures and is not tolerant of low temperatures. It thrives best when the temperature is above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min}. During winter, it should be kept above {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}. When the temperature falls below {Limit_growth_temperature}, the leaves may lighten in color. After frost damage, the color gradually turns brown or black, and symptoms such as wilting and drooping may occur.
Solutions
Trim off the frost-damaged parts. Immediately move indoors to a warm environment for cold protection. Choose a spot near a south-facing window to place the plant, ensuring ample sunlight. Additionally, avoid placing the plant near heaters or air conditioning vents to prevent excessive dryness in the air.
High Temperature
During summer, Pygmy date palm should be kept below {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}. When the temperature exceeds {Tolerable_growing_temperature_max}, the color of the leaves becomes lighter, and the plant becomes more susceptible to sunburn.
Solutions
Trim away the sunburned and dried-up parts. Move the plant to a location that provides shade from the midday and afternoon sun. Water the plant in the morning and evening to keep the soil moist.
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Transplant spacing
How to Successfully Transplant Pygmy date palm?
The ideal season for transplanting pygmy date palm is early spring to mid-spring or late fall to late winter, as these cooler months support root establishment. Transplant pygmy date palm in a well-draining, sunny location for optimal growth. Remember to be gentle and supportive during the relocation process for a successful transplant.
What Preparations are Needed Before Transplanting Pygmy date palm?
What is the Ideal Time for Transplanting Pygmy date palm?
Transplanting our dear pygmy date palm would be most opportune from the onset of spring to its mid-point or from late fall to winter’s end. The significant value of choosing these periods lies in their cooler temperatures that minimize plant stress, optimizing pygmy date palm's root development and overall growth.
How Much Space Should You Leave Between Pygmy date palm Plants?
For transplanting pygmy date palm, it's best to give them plenty of room to grow - ideally, about 6-10 ft (1.8-3 m) apart. This will ensure that they have enough space to spread out and mature properly.
What is the Best Soil Mix for Pygmy date palm Transplanting?
When preparing the soil for pygmy date palm, use a well-draining soil mix with a slightly acidic to neutral base (pH 6.0-7.0), such as peat moss or topsoil. Incorporate a balanced slow-release fertilizer into the soil to provide nutrients for the plant's growth.
Where Should You Relocate Your Pygmy date palm?
For the best growth of pygmy date palm, choose a location that receives at least 6 hours of sunlight daily. It thrives in full sun to partial shade. Make sure the area is protected from strong winds, as pygmy date palm can be sensitive to wind damage.
What Equipments Should You Prepare Before Transplantation Pygmy date palm?
Gardening Gloves
To protect your hands while working with the soil and pygmy date palm.
Shovel or Spade
To dig the planting hole and to remove the plant from its original location.
Wheelbarrow
To transport the plant and the soil mix without causing any damage.
Soil Mix
To amend the native soil with the right nutrients and drainage that pygmy date palm needs.
Mulch
To retain soil moisture and regulate temperature.
Watering Can or Hose
To water the pygmy date palm plant after transplanting.
Root Pruning Shears
To trim damaged or overgrown roots during the transplanting process.
Stakes and Twine
To provide support and stability to the pygmy date palm if needed.
How Do You Remove Pygmy date palm from the Soil?
Choose a location with appropriate sunlight and space for your pygmy date palm to grow to its mature size.
Dig a hole twice as wide and slightly deeper than the root ball of the pygmy date palm plant using a shovel or spade.
Mix the freshly dug soil with a soil mix rich in organic matter to provide the proper nutrients for pygmy date palm.
Place the pygmy date palm in the hole, ensuring the top of the root ball is level with the ground. Spread the roots gently without damaging them.
Fill the hole with the amended soil, packing it gently around the pygmy date palm to remove air pockets.
Water the transplanted pygmy date palm thoroughly and slowly to ensure the moisture reaches the root zone.
Apply a layer of mulch around the pygmy date palm plant to retain moisture, regulate temperature, and suppress weed growth.
If the pygmy date palm needs additional support, secure it with stakes and twine, ensuring the ties aren't too tight and are left with some slack.
Step-by-Step Guide for Transplanting Pygmy date palm
Step1 Site Selection
Choose a location with appropriate sunlight and space for your pygmy date palm to grow to its mature size.
Step2 Digging
Dig a hole twice as wide and slightly deeper than the root ball of the pygmy date palm plant using a shovel or spade.
Step3 Soil Amendment
Mix the freshly dug soil with a soil mix rich in organic matter to provide the proper nutrients for pygmy date palm.
Step4 Placing the Plant
Place the pygmy date palm in the hole, ensuring the top of the root ball is level with the ground. Spread the roots gently without damaging them.
Step5 Backfilling
Fill the hole with the amended soil, packing it gently around the pygmy date palm to remove air pockets.
Step6 Watering
Water the transplanted pygmy date palm thoroughly and slowly to ensure the moisture reaches the root zone.
Step7 Mulching
Apply a layer of mulch around the pygmy date palm plant to retain moisture, regulate temperature, and suppress weed growth.
Step8 Staking (if needed)
If the pygmy date palm needs additional support, secure it with stakes and twine, ensuring the ties aren't too tight and are left with some slack.
How Do You Care For Pygmy date palm After Transplanting?
Watering
Keep the soil around the pygmy date palm consistently moist, but not soggy, for the first few weeks after transplanting to help establish strong roots.
Fertilizing
Wait several weeks before applying slow-release fertilizer to the pygmy date palm to avoid root burn or stress on the plant.
Pruning
To maintain the pygmy date palm's shape and size, prune dead fronds as needed. Avoid removing green or upright fronds as they provide vital energy to the plant.
Monitoring
Keep an eye on the pygmy date palm for any signs of nutrient deficiency, pests, or diseases, and address them promptly.
Support
Remove the stakes and twine once the pygmy date palm has established a strong root system and can stand on its own without support.
Troubleshooting Common Issues with Pygmy date palm Transplantation.
What's the ideal period to transplant pygmy date palm?
The best time to transplant pygmy date palm spans from early to mid-spring and late fall to the heart of winter.
How much spacing is required for pygmy date palm to thrive best?
For pygmy date palm to flourish properly, ensure to space them about 6-10 ft (1.8-3m) apart.
How do I prepare the soil before transplanting pygmy date palm?
Loosen the soil well by tilling. Enrich it with compost or well-rotted manure to ensure it's healthy enough for pygmy date palm.
What should the pot size be when transplanting pygmy date palm?
Choose a pot that's larger enough to accommodate pygmy date palm's root ball comfortably. A 10 inches (25 cm) diameter pot should work fine.
What is the proper depth for planting pygmy date palm?
Pygmy date palm should be planted at the same depth it was growing before. Make sure the topmost roots are at surface level.
What care should be taken when removing pygmy date palm from the previous location?
Be gentle when uprooting pygmy date palm, avoid breaking the roots. Keep as much soil around the roots as possible during the transition.
How much should I water pygmy date palm after transplanting?
Thoroughly water pygmy date palm right after transplanting, ensuring the soil is completely wet. Then maintain moderate watering as pygmy date palm establishes.
What's the best location to transplant pygmy date palm?
Pygmy date palm prefers a sunny or semi-shady location. Ensure the site you choose also offers protection from winds.
Can I fertilize pygmy date palm immediately after transplanting?
Hold off fertilizing pygmy date palm immediately after transplanting. Allow it to establish first, then start on a balanced, slow-release fertilizer.
Should I prune pygmy date palm during the transplanting process?
Only prune pygmy date palm if necessary to remove dead or damaged fronds. Healthy fronds help pygmy date palm establish quickly after transplanting.
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