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Add to My Garden Angel's-wings
Opuntia microdasys
Also known as: Cinnamon Cactus, Polka Dot Cactus, Polka-dot cactus
Angel's-wings (Opuntia microdasys) is a flowering cactus species native to Mexico. Angel's-wings is closely related to Opuntia rufida, which can be differentiated from Opuntia microdasys by its reddish color. Some scientists consider the two cacti to be the same species. This species is also known as the bunny ears cactus, the bunny cactus, or the polka-dot cactus. It is sometimes planted as an ornamental on borders and in gardens.
Every 3 weeks
Water
Full sun
Sunlight
Care Guide for Angel's-wings
Water Angel's-wings once every two to three weeks, letting the soil dry out between waterings. During its first season, however, keep the soil slightly moist to help the root system establish well. Stop watering entirely during winter.
Fertilize angel's-wings once monthly with a balanced (such as 20-20-20) or low-nitrogen plant food. Stop fertilizer in late fall, and resume in early spring.
Shape the plant every 2 months during the growing season.
Sand, Loam, Acidic, Neutral, Alkaline
Needs excellent drainage in pots
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Angel's-wings
Water
Every 3 weeks
Sunlight
Full sun
Hardiness Zones
9 to 12
Planting Time
Spring
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Angel's-wings
Water
Every 3 weeks
Sunlight
Full sun
Hardiness Zones
9 to 12
Planting Time
Spring
Download
Angel's-wings
Water
Every 3 weeks
Sunlight
Full sun
Hardiness Zones
9 to 12
Planting Time
Spring
Download
Questions About Angel's-wings
Watering 
Sunlight 
Temperature 
Fertilizing What should I do if I water my Angel's-wings too much or too little?
Underwatered Angel's-wings
Angel's-wings and other succulents can endure long periods without water, so it’s unusual to find one of these suffering from underwatering. But, if you somehow forgot about your plant and neglected to water it for a month or more, you’ll probably find your Angel's-wings looking thirsty or with some leaf damage from lack of watering.
It is very easy to identify an underwatered Angel's-wings. The leaves will look shriveled, dry, and flat. Some may have dried up completely, turned brown and crispy, or dropped off the plant, starting with the lower leaves and moving upward as the dry conditions continue. And of course, the soil will be completely dried out.
If your Angel's-wings is thirsty and underwatered, give it plenty of water as soon as possible. Submerging the pot entirely in water for about 5-10 minutes is a good way to make sure the soil and plant are rehydrated properly. When you feel a sense of moisture on the surface of the soil with your finger, it means the watering is done properly. If there are dried out leaves still attached, go ahead and pluck them off to make room for new growth.
Overwatered Angel's-wings
Overwatering is dangerous to Angel's-wings and can be fatal to your plant if you don’t remedy the situation. Too much moisture over time leads to root rot, which prevents the roots from being able to absorb nutrients and water from the soil. Root rot occurs when wet conditions allow fungi and bacteria to flourish in the soil and feed on roots. When you find that it's overwatered, you'd better change the growing conditions, place it somewhere with more air ventilation and adjust water frequency, for example.
The symptoms of overwatering are yellow, swollen, and translucent leaves that may even burst open from being over-full with water. If the problem continues without being treated, leaves might turn brown or black, and fall off the plant at the slightest touch. Be sure to check the soil to determine if overwatering is the culprit, as some other issues can cause similar symptoms.
It’s a bit difficult (but not impossible) to save an overwatered plant. The key is catching it early before a lot of damage has occurred. If the roots become rotten, it is likely to kill the entire plant. If you suspect you have overwatered your Angel's-wings, the first step is to remove it from its pot and check the roots and soil.
After removing the plant from its pot, gently remove wet soil from around the roots and then rinse them clean in room-temperature water. This helps with removing fungus that might be lurking in the soil and allows you to get a better sense of how healthy the roots are. If your plant has already developed root rot, you will see roots that are dark brown or black, soft, mushy, or slimy.
If the majority of the roots are already affected by root rot, it may not be possible to save the plant. In this case, it is best to remove any healthy leaves and try to use these to propagate a new Angel's-wings. Luckily, this plant is easy to propagate even from a single leaf. If, on the other hand, only a portion of the roots have succumbed to rot and other healthy roots still remain, there is a chance it can be saved.
Use a sterilized cutting tool to remove any unhealthy-looking roots. Once you're left with only the firm, pale roots, it’s a good idea to dip them in a fungicide to kill off any remaining spores. After that you can repot your Angel's-wings in fresh, free-draining potting soil. While this does not always work to save a succulent with root rot, in most cases this plant will be able to make a full recovery and will put out new growth starting in the next growing season.
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How often should I water my Angel's-wings?
There’s not a hard-and-fast rule for how often to water Angel's-wings. The best way to determine this is to check the soil and only water when it’s bone dry. You can either stick your finger in the pot or use a moisture meter to check the soil below the surface. When you plant it in a deep pot, you can do this with a stick or chopstick. If it feels even a little bit moist, wait a few days and check it again.
Most people will need to water Angel's-wings about every two weeks in summer and once a month in winter, but there are several factors that can change the frequency. The section below lists some considerations that can help you to determine how often to water.
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What should I consider when watering my Angel's-wings?
There are several environmental conditions that will affect how your Angel's-wings needs to be watered, including the container size, soil type, temperature, and humidity.
First off, the container and soil you use will determine how often to water and how much water to use each time. Be sure you use a container with plenty of drainage holes in the bottom so extra water can escape the pot. A small container has less room for soil, meaning it won’t hold as much moisture, while a larger pot will stay wet longer and need to be watered less often. It’s important not to keep your Angel's-wings in an oversized pot as this can easily lead to overwatering. When repotting, move to just one size larger than the current container. A shallow container works better than a deep one, since Angel's-wings has shallow root systems.
Angel's-wings will need to be watered less often in winter and more often in the active growing season in spring and autumn. During the winter, growth slows down considerably and the plant isn’t using much energy or water. There is less water lost to evaporation in cooler winter air, meaning that soil stays wet for much longer than it would in the summer.
This also applies to the general climate around your home. If you live in a humid location with a lot of rain, you will need to water less often than if you live in a dry, arid climate. Remember that conditions at the same geographic location can vary significantly with the season and the use of indoor heating and air conditioning.
Outdoor Planting
If Angel's-wings is planted in the ground, after establishing a root system, it shouldn’t need supplemental water beyond what it receives through precipitation and dew. But if there is a long dry period, you may want to water occasionally. In other areas where Angel's-wings can only be grown in a container, this plant can be moved outside in the spring and summer when the temperature is proper and then brought back inside when temperatures start to drop. A potted Angel's-wings kept outside usually needs more water than the same plant kept indoors, because there is a lot more sun exposure even on a shaded porch.
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How to water Angel's-wings?
The best way to water Angel's-wings is to soak it thoroughly and then allow it to dry out before it gets watered again. Since this plant is somewhat drought tolerant, you can let it get quite dry before watering again. It is always better to give this type of plant too little water over too much.
When you water, make sure the soil gets thoroughly soaked throughout the whole pot. Don’t pour the water in just one spot, but rather try to go around the whole rim of the planter to be sure that it has a chance to get wet on all sides of the plant. The correct amount of water will depend on the size of your container and how much water your soil absorbs. Give your Angel's-wings enough water that it drains out from the drainage holes and then (ideally) leave the drained water in the saucer for about 20-30 minutes to absorb into dry pockets of soil. After that, discard any excess water that’s still in the saucer to avoid the soil getting waterlogged.
Bottom-watering is also an excellent method for the Angel's-wings, as you can be sure that the soil gets thoroughly moistened. This process involves placing the pot into a saucer of water and allowing the soil to absorb moisture through the drainage holes. You will know that the soil has absorbed enough water when the top layer is moist. This takes a bit more time than top-watering, but is almost foolproof in getting an even distribution of water throughout the pot.
The original habitat of Angel's-wings is relatively dry with little rain, but when it rains, the soil will be thoroughly moistened. So you can mimic this situation by bottom-watering your plant when the soil is totally dry. Deep soil bathing is better than frequent light watering for Angel's-wings.
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Common Pests & Diseases
Common issues for Angel's-wings based on 10 million real cases
Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Solutions: Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Stem rot
Bacterial infection can cause the stems to become soft and rotten.
Solutions: If the plant is only infected a little, it can sometimes be saved. This mainly applies to houseplants that are grown in pots. Here's what to do. Remove the plant from the pot and gently shake off as much soil as possible. Using pruning tools that have been disinfected, remove any diseased foliage and roots. Be sure the new pot has good drainage holes and wash it with one part bleach and nine parts water to ensure that it is completely clean and sanitized. Dip the plant's roots in fungicide to kill off any remaining fungal spores before potting into the clean growing medium. Only water the plant when the top inch of the soil is dry and never let the plant sit in water. For plants that are grown in the ground, it's best just to remove the infected plants and destroy them. Do not plant in the same spot until the soil has been allowed to dry out and has been treated with a fungicide.
Low light
A lack of sunlight will cause the stems and leaves to elongate and appear lighter in color.
Solutions: Low light can only be addressed by increasing light availability, and these measures will only stop further etoliation; current distortion cannot be reversed. Move plant to a position where it receives more light. Check the requirements for specific species, as too much sunlight can cause a plant to burn. Introduce appropriate artificial lighting. Some people choose to prune the longest stems so the plant can concentrate on healthy new growth under the improved lighting.
Fruit Spot
Pathogenic infections can cause spots (typically black or brown) to appear on the fruit.
Solutions: Prune regularly - prune as a preventative measure as well as to remove any plants and plant parts affected by fruit Spot. Improve air circulation and drainage Fertilize as needed Spray applications - there are few programs that are effective at controlling fruit Spot for home growers, but the local cooperative extension may be able to provide information regarding potential chemical treatments if the disease is severe.
Dieback
There are several possible causes for dieback.
Solutions: There are a few things to try when dieback becomes apparent: Fertilize and water the plants - these two steps, along with judicious pruning, can help reduce the stress on the root system and encourage renewed vigor Have an arborist check to see if plant roots are girdling Test soil pH and adjust accordingly Remove and destroy infected twigs and branches
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Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Symptom Analysis
Scars form when the plant repairs wounds. They can be the result of people or pets passing by and scraping the plant. Once the underlying issue is resolved, the plant will heal but a scar may remain.
Pests and pathogens can also cause scarring. Insects may attack the plant for a meal, resulting in extensive scarring when a few invaders turn into an infestation. Diseases such as fungus and bacteria can weaken the plant, causing brown spots, mushy areas, or blisters that lead to scars.
Scars occur on stems when a leaf or bud has been lost and the plant has healed. The harder tissue is like a scab that protects a wound.
On other occasions, scars can signal problems from environmental conditions, such as overexposure to sunlight or heat. It might surprise you to know that plants can suffer from sunburn, even desert dwellers like cactus!
Solutions
Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover.
- Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes.
- If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray.
- Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs.
- Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Prevention
Preventing some sources of scarring is easier than others, but all start with careful attention to your plants once you decide to bring them home.
- Review specific guidelines for your plant, including soil drainage, watering, and fertilizer requirements.
- Inspect plants before planting and use sterile pots and fresh potting soil or media to limit transfer of fungi or bacteria.
- Once established, check your plants regularly for signs of scarring or the presence of pests, as it is better to catch problems as early as possible.
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Stem rot
Bacterial infection can cause the stems to become soft and rotten.
Overview
Stem rot is a serious disease and can affect many different types of plants. it can be particularly prevalent when the temperature of the soil is over 16 ℃ and there's a lot of moisture in the soil. This could be from unusually heavy rainfalls or too much irrigation. Once stem rot sets in, it's very difficult to get rid of the disease and most affected plants will have to be discarded. This is especially the case for vegetables, herbs, and other herbaceous plants that have soft stems. This is why it's important to ensure that the soil used for growing these plants is well-drained and that overwatering is avoided. Using good cultural practices also help in curbing these types of fungal diseases.
Symptom Analysis
Plants that have been affected by stem rot will first display a yellowing of the lower leaves. This is followed by obvious wilting and stunted growth.
If the stem of the affected plant is examined closely, there will be some dark discolorations starting near the base and moving upward. If the roots of affected plants are examined, they will appear dark and mushy instead of white and healthy-looking. Eventually, the entire plant will wilt and die.
Disease Cause
Stem rot is caused by a variety of soil-borne fungus pathogens. The type of fungus depends on the species of plant that is affected. Two fungi responsible for stem rot are Rhizoctonia and Fusarium. These fungal pathogens live in soil and migrate to the plant when conditions are optimum. This includes warm, humid weather and excessive soil moisture. Commonly, vegetable seedlings are affected by these fungi.
Sclerotinia sclerotiorum is another fungus that causes stem rot in plants. This fungus has a host range of over 350 different species of plants. Plants most susceptible to this fungus include many vegetable varieties such as cucumbers, beans, cilantro, carrots, cabbage, melons, lettuce, peas, onions, tomatoes, pumpkins, and squash. This fungus can produce different symptoms in different species. In some cases, the fungus causes irregular spots on stems and other plant material that appear water-soaked. On other plant species, the fungus appears as dry lesions that grow and girdle the stem of the plant.
The third type of fungus that causes stem rot is Phytophthora capsici. Plants that belong to the cucumber family are most susceptible to this fungal infection. This fungus manifests as water-soaked lesions on the stems that then turn brown and girdle the stem.
All of these fungal pathogens are transmitted to the plant by water splashing from the soil up onto the plant. That's because the fungal spores live in the soil where they wait for the right conditions to infect the plants.
Solutions
If the plant is only infected a little, it can sometimes be saved. This mainly applies to houseplants that are grown in pots. Here's what to do.
- Remove the plant from the pot and gently shake off as much soil as possible.
- Using pruning tools that have been disinfected, remove any diseased foliage and roots.
- Be sure the new pot has good drainage holes and wash it with one part bleach and nine parts water to ensure that it is completely clean and sanitized.
- Dip the plant's roots in fungicide to kill off any remaining fungal spores before potting into the clean growing medium.
- Only water the plant when the top inch of the soil is dry and never let the plant sit in water.
For plants that are grown in the ground, it's best just to remove the infected plants and destroy them. Do not plant in the same spot until the soil has been allowed to dry out and has been treated with a fungicide.
Prevention
For outdoor gardens:
- Raking the garden thoroughly in the springtime will help to cut down on pathogens that may be living in the soil.
- Using a copper fungicide on plants in the springtime will cut down on fungal growth and prevent the spread of infection.
- Placing a heavy layer of mulch on top of the soil will also prevent pathogens from splashing up onto the stems of plants.
- Place plants at the recommended spacing to encourage better air flow between them.
- Water plants at the base instead of overhead to prevent excessive moisture on foliage.
For indoor plants:
- Avoid overwatering houseplants and ensure the roots do not sit in water.
- Make sure that indoor plants receive adequate air circulation and light.
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Low light
A lack of sunlight will cause the stems and leaves to elongate and appear lighter in color.
Overview
All plants require light, and if they do not receive it in the quantities that they require this distorts their growth in a process known as etiolation. In essence, etiolated plants are diverting all of their energy to growing taller in a desperate attempt to reach a position where they can meet their light requirements. Many other growth factors are harmed by this, and so light-deprived plants can become weak and distorted until they are almost unrecognizable. Low light symptoms are most commonly seen in houseplants, but outdoor specimens can also be affected.
Symptom Analysis
Although symptoms will vary in different plants, the general symptoms of low light are easy to spot.
- Plant stems grow tall and lanky.
- There are less leaves, and both leaves and stems tend to be pale and insipid looking. This is due to a shortage of chlorophyll.
- All plant parts become weakened and may droop, as energy is diverted toward too-fast growth as the plant stretches itself toward any source of light.
Disease Cause
Plants need sunlight in varying amounts for photosynthesis – a process that produces energy for growth and fruit and flower production. Low light causes a plant to divert all energy to upward (apical) growth in order to find better light. Plant hormones called auxins are transported from the actively-growing tip of the plant downwards, to suppress lateral growth. A drop in cellular pH triggers expansins, nonenzymatic cell wall proteins, to loosen cell walls and allow them to elongate. This elongation results in the abnormal lengthening of stems, especially internodes, or plant "legginess" which is observed in etoliated plants.
Solutions
Low light can only be addressed by increasing light availability, and these measures will only stop further etoliation; current distortion cannot be reversed.
- Move plant to a position where it receives more light. Check the requirements for specific species, as too much sunlight can cause a plant to burn.
- Introduce appropriate artificial lighting.
- Some people choose to prune the longest stems so the plant can concentrate on healthy new growth under the improved lighting.
Prevention
To avoid etiolation, provide an adequate amount of light from the beginning.
- Choose a location that matches each plant's ideal light needs. Many indoor plants do best in or near a south-facing window, which will provide the longest hours of sunlight. Flowering plants and those with colored leaves typically need more light than purely-green plants, as photosynthesis occurs in the green portions of leaves.
- Select plants with light needs that match a location's conditions. Some cultivars and varieties require less light than others.
- Use a grow light. Darker locations may require artificial illumination. A grow light may also become more necessary during winter, when sunlit hours are at their shortest.
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Fruit Spot
Pathogenic infections can cause spots (typically black or brown) to appear on the fruit.
Overview
If there are brown or black spots on the unripened fruits of plants, there is a good chance that fruit Spot could be to blame. This is an informal term used to describe several types of diseases that all cause these same symptoms: unattractive spots on fruits and vegetables.
There are a few different culprits behind fruit Spot, including bacterial spot, bacterial speck, and other related diseases (like early blight). Here are some symptoms and potential solutions to consider.
Symptom Analysis
The symptoms of fruit Spot vary depending on which type of plant is affected as well as by which specific pathogen is to blame. Just about every type of plant can be affected by fruit Spot, including tomatoes, pears, plums, onions, strawberries, celery, peaches, and more.
Here are some examples of potential symptoms:
Small Fruit Spot
Small spots are most commonly associated with bacterial speck.
- Spots may appear on fruits as well as leaves and other aboveground areas of the plant
- Small black specks appear on infected fruits (spots are less than 1/16” in diameter)
- Spots are raised with distinct margins, developing into sunken pits as the fruit matures
- Fruit tissue near the spot stays green longer than the rest of the fruit
- Spots are dark brown to black in color, with nearby spots often growing together
Large Fruit Spot
Large spots are often seen on plants suffering from bacterial spot, early blight, and related diseases.
- Spots are large, sometimes larger than 1.3 cm
- Some spots may look like targets with a brown to greyish coloration
- Older spots are black and raised with lobed borders
- Spots are superficial only, not penetrating into the seed cavity
- Spots may turn into sunken pits, turning into craters as they get older
- The skin of the fruit can be cracked and produce a water-soaked border
- Some spots may ooze a gelatinous substance
Disease Cause
There are a few culprits behind the fruit Spot. These depend on the pathogen as well as the type of plant. Bacterial speck and bacterial spot are both common diseases that can affect tomatoes, ground cherries, and other plants.
Bacterial speck is caused by Pseudomonas syringae. First discovered in the United States in 1933, it is most common in tomatoes and nearby weeds but can affect other kinds of plants and their fruits, too. It is more prevalent in low temperatures (less than 24 ℃) and high moisture.
Bacterial spot is caused by Xanthomonas campestris pv. Vesicatoria. First discovered in Texas in 1912, this disease is more common in warm weather and conditions of high moisture.
Solutions
- Prune regularly - prune as a preventative measure as well as to remove any plants and plant parts affected by fruit Spot.
- Improve air circulation and drainage
- Fertilize as needed
- Spray applications - there are few programs that are effective at controlling fruit Spot for home growers, but the local cooperative extension may be able to provide information regarding potential chemical treatments if the disease is severe.
Prevention
There are several ways to prevent both types of fruit Spot from affecting yields and harvests:
- Rotate crops - do not plant the same kind of plant in the same spot each year, instead switching out locations every two to three years
- Use disease-free seeds and transplants - using a hot water treatment to sterilize seeds before planting can also be effective
- Irrigate early in the day to give plants time to dry off before nightfall
- Avoid working around plants when they are wet
- Control weeds
- Remove debris or plow it under at the end of the growing season
- Fertilize with higher amounts of nitrogen and use less calcium
- Plant resistant cultivars when available
- Do not clip plants when transplanting
- Dispose of affected plant parts immediately (do not compost)
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Dieback
There are several possible causes for dieback.
Overview
Dealing with dieback in plants can be tricky, in part because this is both the name of a disease itself and a common symptom of many other types of diseases. Dieback can be characterized by the progressive, gradual death of shoots, twigs, roots, and branches, generally starting first at the tips.
In many cases, dieback is caused by fungi or bacteria. These pathogens can produce cankers, wilts, stem or root rots, and even anthracnose, but the most common symptom, of course, is that various plant parts (or the entire plant) will begin to die back.
Symptom Analysis
The symptoms of dieback can be gradual or slightly more abrupt. Usually, however, they are slow in developing and tend to be uniform among the various parts of a plant.
Some plants may have more localized symptoms, with all twigs affected or all branches affected but not the rest of the plant. Some potential symptoms include:
- Dead or dying branches and twigs
- Dieback that starts in the top of a plant and progresses downward (though it can start lower, especially for conifers)
- A delayed flush of growth in the spring
- Leaf margins become scorched
- Pale green or yellow leaves
- Leaves that are small or otherwise distorted
- Early leaf drop
- Reduced growth of twigs and stems
- Thinning of crown foliage
- Production of suckers on trunk and branches
- Premature fall coloration (in tree species like birch, sweetgum, maple, oak, ash, etc)
The symptoms of dieback can occur within just one season or become worse each and every year.
Disease Cause
There are several types of dieback, each of which has a different cause with which it is associated.
"dieback" as a standalone issue, including the condition known as Staghead, is caused by fungal or bacterial infections. Staghead is a slow dieback that occurs on the upper branches of a tree, named as such because the dead limbs look much like the head of a stag.
Other causes of dieback symptoms include:
- Cankers or wilts
- Stem or root rots
- Nematodes
- Stem or root boring insects
- Pavement being placed over root systems
- Winter injury from cold
- Salt damage
- Lack of moisture (or excess of moisture)
- Lack of an essential nutrient or element
Trees and shrubs that are attacked by insects, exposed to extremely high or low temperatures, or experience severe and frequent fluctuations in soil moisture are the most likely to suffer from dieback. These stress factors alone or in combination with each other can reduce leaf and shoot growth, and progress into death of twigs and branches.
Although any of these issues can lead to dieback, the most serious consequences tend to occur when the roots of a plant are damaged. Similarly, trees and shrubs that are planted improperly or in unfavorable locations are more likely to develop this condition.
Solutions
There are a few things to try when dieback becomes apparent:
- Fertilize and water the plants - these two steps, along with judicious pruning, can help reduce the stress on the root system and encourage renewed vigor
- Have an arborist check to see if plant roots are girdling
- Test soil pH and adjust accordingly
- Remove and destroy infected twigs and branches
Prevention
The best way to prevent dieback is to match the plant to the site. Make sure the conditions provided for a new planting match its needs.
- Plant properly in deep, fertile well-draining soil
- Make sure plant roots won’t be confined when the plant reaches its mature size
- Avoid changes to the growing site
- If soil compaction might be an issue, apply a few inches of wood chips and eliminate traffic over the root area
- Fertilize and water appropriately
It is also important to avoid potential infection with pathogens that can cause dieback:
- Avoid binding or wounding the roots and trunk whenever possible
- Avoid excessive pruning
- Disinfect all tools before working with plants to reduce the spread of disease
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Weed Control
Weeds
Angel's-wings is considered invasive in Australia, where people are forbidden from propagating it for sale in markets, nurseries, or on the internet. These cacti are considered invasive due to their ability to damage agricultural land, harbor dangerous species, and cause cattle blindness. Their ability to form complex, large root structures when allowed to grow in the ground causes them to outcompete native species and spread widely. In other countries like Mexico and the United States, this plant is propagated as a houseplant and grown in pots. Care should be taken not to let this species escape and invade nearby soils.
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Distribution Map
Habitat
Desert hills, uplands
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
More Info
Plant Type
Succulent, Shrub
Flower Color
Yellow
Bloom Time
Early summer, Mid summer
Leaf Color
Green
Name story
Bunny ears cactus
It has become a popular houseplant because it is easy to take care of the plant and it has a cute appearance with great blooms. However, yellow flowers appear rarely. Despite this, it is very popular in cultivation because of the comical resemblance to a rabbit's head. Therefore, it is called bunny ears cactus.
Symbolism
Hope
Usages
Garden Use
Angel's-wings adds visual interest and periodic splashes of color when planted in the soil of rock gardens. The yellow flowers, which rarely appear when they are planted in containers, turn into elongated red-purple fruits. They pair well with succulents like Aloe or Agave.
Scientific Classification
Phylum
Vascular plants Class
Dicotyledons Order
Pinks, cacti, and allies Family
Cactuses Genus
Prickly pear Species
Angel's-wings Related Plants
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Swedish ivy (Plectranthus verticillatus) is a plant species that is also referred to as whorled Plectranthus, creeping Charlie, and Swedish Begonia. The common name swedish ivy is a misnomer because this plant is not native to Sweden, is not a true ivy plant, and does not grow along walls.
Bloom Time
Summer
Tea rose
The first tea rose was created in 1867 by Jean-Baptiste Andred Guillot, who operated his father's nursery in Lyon from the age of 14. The tea rose did not become popular until the Soleil d'Or was cultivated at the beginning of the 1900s in France.
Bloom Time
Spring
Garden Usage
Roses are world-famous ornamental flowers with bright colors and fragrant scents. They are very often used for garden decorations as a parterre or flower border, or are simply cut and placed in a vase for appreciation. Most roses are shrubs with indispensable value in landscaping. They can climb around a pergola in various forms and be shaped into small shrubby plants. In addition to many plant forms, they also bloom flowers in a variety of colors. Rose is one of the most popular and well-known species.
Wingpod purslane
Wingpod purslane (Portulaca umbraticola) is a succulent annual plant or short-lived perennial that will grow to 15 cm tall and 61 cm wide. Its flowers vary in color from orange to red to pink. Flowers attract butterflies, bees and moths. Thrives in full sun with regular moisture and well-drained soil. Trim back when it becomes untidy to encourage new growth and flowers.
Bloom Time
Summer, Autumn
Garden Usage
Wingpod purslane is often found indoors as an ornamental potted plant. In summer, it blooms in a variety of bright colors. It can also be grown as a ground cover plant. It's quite adaptable and not hard to grow, provided with ample sunlight and a little moisture in a warm environment. Sufficient sunlight is a must.
Queen's wreath
Queen's wreath (Petrea volubilis) is an evergreen flowering vine that is native to Central America and is grown in gardens around the world for its ornamental properties. In late spring and early summer, it produces star-like purple flowers. The scientific genus name honors Lord Robert James Petre, a 17th-century British horticulturist.
Bloom Time
Summer
Moss rose
Moss rose is an ornamental flowering semi-succulent plant native to South America. Gardeners can cultivate this easy-to-grow plant in annual flowerbeds, in containers, or in hanging baskets because of its trailing habit. Different cultivars have been selected and propagated for achieving striking variations in color, shape, and petal number of the flowers.
Bloom Time
Spring, Summer, Autumn
Garden Usage
Moss rose is often found indoors as an ornamental potted plant. In summer, it blooms in a variety of bright colors. It can also be grown as a ground cover plant. It's quite adaptable and not hard to grow, provided with ample sunlight and a little moisture in a warm environment. Sufficient sunlight is a must.
Sulfur cosmos
Sulfur cosmos (Cosmos sulphureus) is an annual flowering plant native to Mexico, Central America, and South America. Though widely used as an ornamental plant, sulfur cosmos is considered an invasive species in the United States. It attracts bees and butterflies, including the notable monarch butterfly.
Bloom Time
Summer, autumn
Garden Usage
Sulfur cosmos can be planted purely or mixed with other flowers in the garden. It is easy to care for and once sown at the right time, they will bloom and bear seeds with little or even no care. The flowers of sulfur cosmos are large and very stunning, with many colors such as white, yellow, orange, pink, purple and bicolor. WIth large blooms with slender stems, sulfur cosmos can attract birds, bees and butterflies, which brings energy and vibrancy to your garden.
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Plant Collection Most Common Succulent Aloe vera See More Aloe vera is an evergreen succulent species native to the Arabian Peninsula. The thick leaves are filled with gooey flesh that stores water for survival in its native desert territories. Aloe vera has become a popular houseplant and is also incorporated into a wide range ofContinue reading “Most Common Succulent”
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Plant Collection Suggested Plants to Build a Garden That Blooms All the Year Round White mulberry See More BloomTime:Spring A unique and easy-to-grow edible landscaping plant, the White mulberry is prized for its tasty fruits as well as its exquisite ornamental appeal. Originally native to China, this plant was valued for its role in silkContinue reading “Suggested Plants to Build a Garden That Blooms All the Year Round”
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Add to My Garden Angel's-wings
Opuntia microdasys
Also known as: Cinnamon Cactus, Polka Dot Cactus, Polka-dot cactus
Every 3 weeks
Water
Full sun
Sunlight
Care Guide for Angel's-wings
Water
Water Angel's-wings once every two to three weeks, letting the soil dry out between waterings. During its first season, however, keep the soil slightly moist to help the root system establish well. Stop watering entirely during winter.
Fertilization
Fertilize angel's-wings once monthly with a balanced (such as 20-20-20) or low-nitrogen plant food. Stop fertilizer in late fall, and resume in early spring.
Pruning
Shape the plant every 2 months during the growing season.
Soil
Sand, Loam, Acidic, Neutral, Alkaline
Potting Suggestions
Needs excellent drainage in pots
Tips, advice, and instructions for over 13,000 species that you will find nowhere else
Angel's-wings
Opuntia microdasys
Water
Every 3 weeks
Sunlight
Full sun
Hardiness Zones
9 to 12
Planting Time
Spring
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Common Pests & Diseases
Common issues for Angel's-wings based on 10 million real cases
Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Solutions: Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
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Stem rot
Bacterial infection can cause the stems to become soft and rotten.
Solutions: If the plant is only infected a little, it can sometimes be saved. This mainly applies to houseplants that are grown in pots. Here's what to do. Remove the plant from the pot and gently shake off as much soil as possible. Using pruning tools that have been disinfected, remove any diseased foliage and roots. Be sure the new pot has good drainage holes and wash it with one part bleach and nine parts water to ensure that it is completely clean and sanitized. Dip the plant's roots in fungicide to kill off any remaining fungal spores before potting into the clean growing medium. Only water the plant when the top inch of the soil is dry and never let the plant sit in water. For plants that are grown in the ground, it's best just to remove the infected plants and destroy them. Do not plant in the same spot until the soil has been allowed to dry out and has been treated with a fungicide.
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Low light
A lack of sunlight will cause the stems and leaves to elongate and appear lighter in color.
Solutions: Low light can only be addressed by increasing light availability, and these measures will only stop further etoliation; current distortion cannot be reversed. Move plant to a position where it receives more light. Check the requirements for specific species, as too much sunlight can cause a plant to burn. Introduce appropriate artificial lighting. Some people choose to prune the longest stems so the plant can concentrate on healthy new growth under the improved lighting.
Learn More ![more]()
Fruit Spot
Pathogenic infections can cause spots (typically black or brown) to appear on the fruit.
Solutions: Prune regularly - prune as a preventative measure as well as to remove any plants and plant parts affected by fruit Spot. Improve air circulation and drainage Fertilize as needed Spray applications - there are few programs that are effective at controlling fruit Spot for home growers, but the local cooperative extension may be able to provide information regarding potential chemical treatments if the disease is severe.
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Dieback
There are several possible causes for dieback.
Solutions: There are a few things to try when dieback becomes apparent: Fertilize and water the plants - these two steps, along with judicious pruning, can help reduce the stress on the root system and encourage renewed vigor Have an arborist check to see if plant roots are girdling Test soil pH and adjust accordingly Remove and destroy infected twigs and branches
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Keep your leafy friends healthy and happy.
Diagnose your plant, and learn how to prevent and treat plant diseases.
Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Symptom Analysis
Scars form when the plant repairs wounds. They can be the result of people or pets passing by and scraping the plant. Once the underlying issue is resolved, the plant will heal but a scar may remain.
Pests and pathogens can also cause scarring. Insects may attack the plant for a meal, resulting in extensive scarring when a few invaders turn into an infestation. Diseases such as fungus and bacteria can weaken the plant, causing brown spots, mushy areas, or blisters that lead to scars.
Scars occur on stems when a leaf or bud has been lost and the plant has healed. The harder tissue is like a scab that protects a wound.
On other occasions, scars can signal problems from environmental conditions, such as overexposure to sunlight or heat. It might surprise you to know that plants can suffer from sunburn, even desert dwellers like cactus!
Solutions
Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover.
- Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes.
- If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray.
- Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs.
- Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Prevention
Preventing some sources of scarring is easier than others, but all start with careful attention to your plants once you decide to bring them home.
- Review specific guidelines for your plant, including soil drainage, watering, and fertilizer requirements.
- Inspect plants before planting and use sterile pots and fresh potting soil or media to limit transfer of fungi or bacteria.
- Once established, check your plants regularly for signs of scarring or the presence of pests, as it is better to catch problems as early as possible.
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Stem rot
Bacterial infection can cause the stems to become soft and rotten.
Overview
Stem rot is a serious disease and can affect many different types of plants. it can be particularly prevalent when the temperature of the soil is over 16 ℃ and there's a lot of moisture in the soil. This could be from unusually heavy rainfalls or too much irrigation. Once stem rot sets in, it's very difficult to get rid of the disease and most affected plants will have to be discarded. This is especially the case for vegetables, herbs, and other herbaceous plants that have soft stems. This is why it's important to ensure that the soil used for growing these plants is well-drained and that overwatering is avoided. Using good cultural practices also help in curbing these types of fungal diseases.
Symptom Analysis
Plants that have been affected by stem rot will first display a yellowing of the lower leaves. This is followed by obvious wilting and stunted growth.
If the stem of the affected plant is examined closely, there will be some dark discolorations starting near the base and moving upward. If the roots of affected plants are examined, they will appear dark and mushy instead of white and healthy-looking. Eventually, the entire plant will wilt and die.
Disease Cause
Stem rot is caused by a variety of soil-borne fungus pathogens. The type of fungus depends on the species of plant that is affected. Two fungi responsible for stem rot are Rhizoctonia and Fusarium. These fungal pathogens live in soil and migrate to the plant when conditions are optimum. This includes warm, humid weather and excessive soil moisture. Commonly, vegetable seedlings are affected by these fungi.
Sclerotinia sclerotiorum is another fungus that causes stem rot in plants. This fungus has a host range of over 350 different species of plants. Plants most susceptible to this fungus include many vegetable varieties such as cucumbers, beans, cilantro, carrots, cabbage, melons, lettuce, peas, onions, tomatoes, pumpkins, and squash. This fungus can produce different symptoms in different species. In some cases, the fungus causes irregular spots on stems and other plant material that appear water-soaked. On other plant species, the fungus appears as dry lesions that grow and girdle the stem of the plant.
The third type of fungus that causes stem rot is Phytophthora capsici. Plants that belong to the cucumber family are most susceptible to this fungal infection. This fungus manifests as water-soaked lesions on the stems that then turn brown and girdle the stem.
All of these fungal pathogens are transmitted to the plant by water splashing from the soil up onto the plant. That's because the fungal spores live in the soil where they wait for the right conditions to infect the plants.
Solutions
If the plant is only infected a little, it can sometimes be saved. This mainly applies to houseplants that are grown in pots. Here's what to do.
- Remove the plant from the pot and gently shake off as much soil as possible.
- Using pruning tools that have been disinfected, remove any diseased foliage and roots.
- Be sure the new pot has good drainage holes and wash it with one part bleach and nine parts water to ensure that it is completely clean and sanitized.
- Dip the plant's roots in fungicide to kill off any remaining fungal spores before potting into the clean growing medium.
- Only water the plant when the top inch of the soil is dry and never let the plant sit in water.
For plants that are grown in the ground, it's best just to remove the infected plants and destroy them. Do not plant in the same spot until the soil has been allowed to dry out and has been treated with a fungicide.
Prevention
For outdoor gardens:
- Raking the garden thoroughly in the springtime will help to cut down on pathogens that may be living in the soil.
- Using a copper fungicide on plants in the springtime will cut down on fungal growth and prevent the spread of infection.
- Placing a heavy layer of mulch on top of the soil will also prevent pathogens from splashing up onto the stems of plants.
- Place plants at the recommended spacing to encourage better air flow between them.
- Water plants at the base instead of overhead to prevent excessive moisture on foliage.
For indoor plants:
- Avoid overwatering houseplants and ensure the roots do not sit in water.
- Make sure that indoor plants receive adequate air circulation and light.
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Low light
A lack of sunlight will cause the stems and leaves to elongate and appear lighter in color.
Overview
All plants require light, and if they do not receive it in the quantities that they require this distorts their growth in a process known as etiolation. In essence, etiolated plants are diverting all of their energy to growing taller in a desperate attempt to reach a position where they can meet their light requirements. Many other growth factors are harmed by this, and so light-deprived plants can become weak and distorted until they are almost unrecognizable. Low light symptoms are most commonly seen in houseplants, but outdoor specimens can also be affected.
Symptom Analysis
Although symptoms will vary in different plants, the general symptoms of low light are easy to spot.
- Plant stems grow tall and lanky.
- There are less leaves, and both leaves and stems tend to be pale and insipid looking. This is due to a shortage of chlorophyll.
- All plant parts become weakened and may droop, as energy is diverted toward too-fast growth as the plant stretches itself toward any source of light.
Disease Cause
Plants need sunlight in varying amounts for photosynthesis – a process that produces energy for growth and fruit and flower production. Low light causes a plant to divert all energy to upward (apical) growth in order to find better light. Plant hormones called auxins are transported from the actively-growing tip of the plant downwards, to suppress lateral growth. A drop in cellular pH triggers expansins, nonenzymatic cell wall proteins, to loosen cell walls and allow them to elongate. This elongation results in the abnormal lengthening of stems, especially internodes, or plant "legginess" which is observed in etoliated plants.
Solutions
Low light can only be addressed by increasing light availability, and these measures will only stop further etoliation; current distortion cannot be reversed.
- Move plant to a position where it receives more light. Check the requirements for specific species, as too much sunlight can cause a plant to burn.
- Introduce appropriate artificial lighting.
- Some people choose to prune the longest stems so the plant can concentrate on healthy new growth under the improved lighting.
Prevention
To avoid etiolation, provide an adequate amount of light from the beginning.
- Choose a location that matches each plant's ideal light needs. Many indoor plants do best in or near a south-facing window, which will provide the longest hours of sunlight. Flowering plants and those with colored leaves typically need more light than purely-green plants, as photosynthesis occurs in the green portions of leaves.
- Select plants with light needs that match a location's conditions. Some cultivars and varieties require less light than others.
- Use a grow light. Darker locations may require artificial illumination. A grow light may also become more necessary during winter, when sunlit hours are at their shortest.
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Fruit Spot
Pathogenic infections can cause spots (typically black or brown) to appear on the fruit.
Overview
If there are brown or black spots on the unripened fruits of plants, there is a good chance that fruit Spot could be to blame. This is an informal term used to describe several types of diseases that all cause these same symptoms: unattractive spots on fruits and vegetables.
There are a few different culprits behind fruit Spot, including bacterial spot, bacterial speck, and other related diseases (like early blight). Here are some symptoms and potential solutions to consider.
Symptom Analysis
The symptoms of fruit Spot vary depending on which type of plant is affected as well as by which specific pathogen is to blame. Just about every type of plant can be affected by fruit Spot, including tomatoes, pears, plums, onions, strawberries, celery, peaches, and more.
Here are some examples of potential symptoms:
Small Fruit Spot
Small spots are most commonly associated with bacterial speck.
- Spots may appear on fruits as well as leaves and other aboveground areas of the plant
- Small black specks appear on infected fruits (spots are less than 1/16” in diameter)
- Spots are raised with distinct margins, developing into sunken pits as the fruit matures
- Fruit tissue near the spot stays green longer than the rest of the fruit
- Spots are dark brown to black in color, with nearby spots often growing together
Large Fruit Spot
Large spots are often seen on plants suffering from bacterial spot, early blight, and related diseases.
- Spots are large, sometimes larger than 1.3 cm
- Some spots may look like targets with a brown to greyish coloration
- Older spots are black and raised with lobed borders
- Spots are superficial only, not penetrating into the seed cavity
- Spots may turn into sunken pits, turning into craters as they get older
- The skin of the fruit can be cracked and produce a water-soaked border
- Some spots may ooze a gelatinous substance
Disease Cause
There are a few culprits behind the fruit Spot. These depend on the pathogen as well as the type of plant. Bacterial speck and bacterial spot are both common diseases that can affect tomatoes, ground cherries, and other plants.
Bacterial speck is caused by Pseudomonas syringae. First discovered in the United States in 1933, it is most common in tomatoes and nearby weeds but can affect other kinds of plants and their fruits, too. It is more prevalent in low temperatures (less than 24 ℃) and high moisture.
Bacterial spot is caused by Xanthomonas campestris pv. Vesicatoria. First discovered in Texas in 1912, this disease is more common in warm weather and conditions of high moisture.
Solutions
- Prune regularly - prune as a preventative measure as well as to remove any plants and plant parts affected by fruit Spot.
- Improve air circulation and drainage
- Fertilize as needed
- Spray applications - there are few programs that are effective at controlling fruit Spot for home growers, but the local cooperative extension may be able to provide information regarding potential chemical treatments if the disease is severe.
Prevention
There are several ways to prevent both types of fruit Spot from affecting yields and harvests:
- Rotate crops - do not plant the same kind of plant in the same spot each year, instead switching out locations every two to three years
- Use disease-free seeds and transplants - using a hot water treatment to sterilize seeds before planting can also be effective
- Irrigate early in the day to give plants time to dry off before nightfall
- Avoid working around plants when they are wet
- Control weeds
- Remove debris or plow it under at the end of the growing season
- Fertilize with higher amounts of nitrogen and use less calcium
- Plant resistant cultivars when available
- Do not clip plants when transplanting
- Dispose of affected plant parts immediately (do not compost)
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Dieback
There are several possible causes for dieback.
Overview
Dealing with dieback in plants can be tricky, in part because this is both the name of a disease itself and a common symptom of many other types of diseases. Dieback can be characterized by the progressive, gradual death of shoots, twigs, roots, and branches, generally starting first at the tips.
In many cases, dieback is caused by fungi or bacteria. These pathogens can produce cankers, wilts, stem or root rots, and even anthracnose, but the most common symptom, of course, is that various plant parts (or the entire plant) will begin to die back.
Symptom Analysis
The symptoms of dieback can be gradual or slightly more abrupt. Usually, however, they are slow in developing and tend to be uniform among the various parts of a plant.
Some plants may have more localized symptoms, with all twigs affected or all branches affected but not the rest of the plant. Some potential symptoms include:
- Dead or dying branches and twigs
- Dieback that starts in the top of a plant and progresses downward (though it can start lower, especially for conifers)
- A delayed flush of growth in the spring
- Leaf margins become scorched
- Pale green or yellow leaves
- Leaves that are small or otherwise distorted
- Early leaf drop
- Reduced growth of twigs and stems
- Thinning of crown foliage
- Production of suckers on trunk and branches
- Premature fall coloration (in tree species like birch, sweetgum, maple, oak, ash, etc)
The symptoms of dieback can occur within just one season or become worse each and every year.
Disease Cause
There are several types of dieback, each of which has a different cause with which it is associated.
"dieback" as a standalone issue, including the condition known as Staghead, is caused by fungal or bacterial infections. Staghead is a slow dieback that occurs on the upper branches of a tree, named as such because the dead limbs look much like the head of a stag.
Other causes of dieback symptoms include:
- Cankers or wilts
- Stem or root rots
- Nematodes
- Stem or root boring insects
- Pavement being placed over root systems
- Winter injury from cold
- Salt damage
- Lack of moisture (or excess of moisture)
- Lack of an essential nutrient or element
Trees and shrubs that are attacked by insects, exposed to extremely high or low temperatures, or experience severe and frequent fluctuations in soil moisture are the most likely to suffer from dieback. These stress factors alone or in combination with each other can reduce leaf and shoot growth, and progress into death of twigs and branches.
Although any of these issues can lead to dieback, the most serious consequences tend to occur when the roots of a plant are damaged. Similarly, trees and shrubs that are planted improperly or in unfavorable locations are more likely to develop this condition.
Solutions
There are a few things to try when dieback becomes apparent:
- Fertilize and water the plants - these two steps, along with judicious pruning, can help reduce the stress on the root system and encourage renewed vigor
- Have an arborist check to see if plant roots are girdling
- Test soil pH and adjust accordingly
- Remove and destroy infected twigs and branches
Prevention
The best way to prevent dieback is to match the plant to the site. Make sure the conditions provided for a new planting match its needs.
- Plant properly in deep, fertile well-draining soil
- Make sure plant roots won’t be confined when the plant reaches its mature size
- Avoid changes to the growing site
- If soil compaction might be an issue, apply a few inches of wood chips and eliminate traffic over the root area
- Fertilize and water appropriately
It is also important to avoid potential infection with pathogens that can cause dieback:
- Avoid binding or wounding the roots and trunk whenever possible
- Avoid excessive pruning
- Disinfect all tools before working with plants to reduce the spread of disease
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Weed Control
Weeds
Angel's-wings is considered invasive in Australia, where people are forbidden from propagating it for sale in markets, nurseries, or on the internet. These cacti are considered invasive due to their ability to damage agricultural land, harbor dangerous species, and cause cattle blindness. Their ability to form complex, large root structures when allowed to grow in the ground causes them to outcompete native species and spread widely. In other countries like Mexico and the United States, this plant is propagated as a houseplant and grown in pots. Care should be taken not to let this species escape and invade nearby soils.
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Distribution Map
Habitat
Desert hills, uplands
Map
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
More Info
Plant Type
Succulent, Shrub
Flower Color
Yellow
Bloom Time
Early summer, Mid summer
Leaf Color
Green
Name story
Bunny ears cactus
It has become a popular houseplant because it is easy to take care of the plant and it has a cute appearance with great blooms. However, yellow flowers appear rarely. Despite this, it is very popular in cultivation because of the comical resemblance to a rabbit's head. Therefore, it is called bunny ears cactus.
Symbolism
Hope
Usages
Garden Use
Angel's-wings adds visual interest and periodic splashes of color when planted in the soil of rock gardens. The yellow flowers, which rarely appear when they are planted in containers, turn into elongated red-purple fruits. They pair well with succulents like Aloe or Agave.
Scientific Classification
Phylum
Vascular plants Class
Dicotyledons Order
Pinks, cacti, and allies Family
Cactuses Genus
Prickly pear Species
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