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Blue fescue
Blue fescue
Blue fescue
Festuca glauca
Blue fescue (*Festuca glauca*) is a clump-forming ornamental grass that is an evergreen perennial. Blue fescue is often planted for ornamental groundcover, but can become a weed if not carefully controlled. The Latin name Festuca glauca means "pale blue-grey."
Planting Time
Planting Time
Spring
care guide

Care Guide for Blue fescue

Watering Care
Watering Care
Blue fescue has average watering requirements. It needs to be watered regularly, whenever the top few inches of soil start drying out. During hot spells and prolonged periods of drought, water the plant more frequently. The plant can withstand short periods of drought but will grow best when given adequate moisture.
Details on Watering Care Watering Care
Fertilizing Care
Fertilizing Care
Blue fescue isn't demanding when it comes to fertilization. The best way to give the plant its needed nutrients is to apply a layer of mulch, or mix in some garden compost or well-rotted manure. Do this once in spring and the plant will have enough food for the entire growing season.
Details on Fertilizing Care Fertilizing Care
Pruning
Pruning
Trim the diseased, withered leaves once a month.
Details on Pruning Pruning
Soil Care
Soil Care
Sand, Chalky, Clay, Loam, Acidic, Neutral
Details on Soil Care Soil Care
What Are the Lighting Requirements for Blue fescue?
What Are the Lighting Requirements for Blue fescue?
Full sun, Partial sun
Details on Sunlight Requirements What Are the Lighting Requirements for Blue fescue?
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Blue fescue
Water
Water
Every week
Sunlight
Sunlight
Full sun
Planting Time
Planting Time
Spring
question

Questions About Blue fescue

Watering Watering Watering
Pruning Pruning Pruning
Sunlight Sunlight Sunlight
Temperature Temperature Temperature
Fertilizing Fertilizing Fertilizing
What should I do if I water my Blue fescue too much or too little?
Without proper watering, this beautiful ornamental grass will underperform. In the ground, watering issues can be solved, but In a container, too much or too little water will kill Blue fescue in short order. When Blue fescue isn't receiving the right amount of water, it may stop growing. In the case of overwatering, it will begin to display yellow leaves with brown tips. Underwatering can produce drooping leaves, weak seed head production, and browned leaves. If you suspect your Blue fescue has been improperly watered, the first thing to do is figure out if the problem is too much or too little. If your Blue fescue is getting too much water, stop watering it immediately. Sometimes it can take weeks for heavy soils to dry out, so be patient. At the first sign of new growth, test the soil for moisture and decide whether it needs more water or not. The solution for Blue fescue receiving too little water is even simpler: give the grasses a nice, deep drink and see if it perks up.
Bearing all of this in mind, remember that a long, deep watering is always better than a lot of shallow, frequent waterings. The reason for this is that deep watering encourages grasses to grow deep roots, which makes them more drought resistant and less prone to problems from watering.
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How often should I water my Blue fescue?
The watering needs of Blue fescue will vary depending on where it is planted. Generally, you should water this grass every week. In hot climates, once or twice a week watering in the summer may be necessary. In moderate climates, watering once every seven days or more may be enough. Grass in containers almost always need more frequent watering than grasses in the ground. But with a species such as this that can thrive in full sun or part shade, the location also matters. Shaded grasses need to be watered less frequently than in-ground grasses.
Blue fescue should only be watered when the soil is dry. If you’re unsure when to water, there are a few key signs you can use as your cue. Pressing your finger a couple of inches into the soil will tell you if the soil is dry. For a potted grass, you can weigh the grass with a portable scale to see how light it is, but you can also quickly feel when the pot is light from lack of water. Like many types of grass, the blades may appear folded along their centers and thinner than usual when the roots lack sufficient water. Despite its drought tolerance, regular, deep waterings will reward you with a beautiful color.
In the wild, Blue fescue grows in open scrubland, where it would be subject to extreme heat, loads of bright sun, and intermittent rain. Because this grass is drought resistant, you might expect never to need to water it. But don’t let its hardiness fool you, Blue fescue still needs care and attention. Even though this hardy grass can handle harsh, dry conditions, gardeners agree that it thrives best with consistent water.
When first planted, Blue fescue will need more frequent water until it has established deep roots. For Blue fescue in pots, the soil will dry out quickly, especially if the pot is in hot, direct sun for a large part of the day. Test the soil every 3 to 4 days and water only when it feels dry. Blue fescueed in the ground generally needs less watering, but that depends on the soil it is grown in. Heavy clay soil holds water for a long time and may feel dry at the surface while still retaining plenty of moisture below the ground. Sandy soils that drain quickly will need to be watered more often.
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What should I be careful with when I water my Blue fescue in different seasons, climates, or during different growing?
You can often tell if you are watering enough by the rate of growth of your grasses. Blue fescue during the hottest months of the year and has been known to double in size in a year’s time. If the weather is hot and the grass is not growing vigorously, you may need to adjust your watering schedule. In winter, you might be able to get away with watering only once a month, but you will still want to touch the soil to test for moisture.
During a growth cycle (in the warmest months), the grass will need more water than usual. But during winter and cooler months, the need for water will be dramatically reduced. The most important thing to remember about Blue fescue is that the soil it is planted in should always be allowed to dry out completely before adding water.
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plant_info

Key Facts About Blue fescue

Attributes of Blue fescue

Lifespan
Perennial
Plant Type
Grass
Planting Time
Spring
Bloom Time
Summer, Fall
Plant Height
14 cm to 18 cm
Spread
45 cm
Leaf Color
Green
Blue
Flower Size
15 cm
Flower Color
Green
Purple
Yellow
Blue
Brown
Dormancy
Winter dormancy
Leaf type
Evergreen
Growth Season
Spring, Summer

Usages

Garden Use
Blue fescue is a drought-proof ornamental grass with needle-like silver-blue rigid foliage that can add a great color accent to gravel and rock gardens, providing contrast with other plantings. Growing in compact mounds, it makes a good ground cover, looks great in beds and edging, and is suitable as a container plant.

Scientific Classification of Blue fescue

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pests

Common Pests & Diseases About Blue fescue

Common issues for Blue fescue based on 10 million real cases
Plant dried up
Plant dried up Plant dried up
Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.
Solutions: The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method. Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly. Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems. Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species. Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil. Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.
Flower withering
Flower withering Flower withering
Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Solutions: If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible. For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface. In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well. If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.
Leaf scorch
Leaf scorch Leaf scorch
Leaf scorch
Leaf blight causes leaves to dry out and turn brown starting at their tips.
Solutions: The solution to leaf scorch will depend on the cause, however, in general all cultural care methods that improve plant health and root functionality will reduce symptoms. Mulching the root zone (preferably with wood chip mulch) helps retain moisture, reduce evaporation, and promotes a healthy, functional root environment that is critical for water movement to the leaves. Check the root collar for girdling or circling roots that strangle the trunk and limit water and nutrient movement. Protect trees from severe root damage of nearby construction and excavation. If fertilizer burn is to blame, irrigate the soil deeply to flush out excess fertilizer salts. However, keep in mind that fertilizer runoff is an environmental pollutant. Avoiding excess fertilization in the first place is the best approach. If soil testing has revealed a potassium deficiency, apply a potassium fertilizer and water well. Even if you have enough potassium in the soil, plants will not be able to take it up if the soil is consistently too dry. Severely affected twigs may be removed using a pair of sharp and sanitized pruning shears, as weakened branches are susceptible to secondary infections. If your plant has bacterial leaf scorch, there is no cure. Antibiotic injections applied by a professional can reduce symptoms for a season, however, the above cultural management methods are the best options to reduce symptoms and prolong life. An infected plant will likely die within ten years.
Lace bugs
Lace bugs Lace bugs
Lace bugs
Lace bugs are 3 to 5 mm translucent flying insects that suck sap from the plant.
Solutions: Lace bugs can be controlled in various ways. For severe cases: Introduce beneficial insects that eat lace bugs, such as parasitoid wasps, assassin bugs, and lady beetles. Avoid spraying unnecessary pesticides so as not to reduce the populations of these helpful predators. Spray plants with insecticidal soap or neem oil under all leaves of the affected and surrounding plants. Make sure the soap hits the insects. Spray in the morning, evening, or on a cloudy day to avoid damaging plant tissue. Trim and burn heavily infected plant limbs. As a last resort use an insecticide containing pyrethroids to kill the lace bugs. Remember that these products will also likely kill beneficial insects such as bees. For less severe cases: Rub off lace bugs from under the leaves using a damp cloth. Use the strong stream of a hose to spray these pests off plants. This washes the nymphs off and onto the ground where they cannot return to the leaves of the plant. Large trees generally do not need to be treated for lace bugs, since they don't damage their overall health.
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Plant dried up
plant poor
Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Your plant has dried out and turned brown. It might be starting to wilt, with no noticeable green around the stems and leaves. Touch the leaves, and they may crinkle under your fingers.
Possible causes of a dried out plant include:
  1. Not enough water. A lack of water will lead to dry plant tissue.
  2. Too much water. Watering too much can lead to root rot which makes the plant struggle to take up water. Rotted, mushy roots are a sign of overeating.
  3. Entering dormancy. As perennial plants enter their resting period known as dormancy, their leaves dry out and may fall off. This happens during decreasing day length.
  4. Exposure to herbicides and other toxic substances. If a plant is hit with a large dose herbicide or other toxic chemical, the plant will turn brown.
  5. Too much fertility. An excess of fertilizer can prevent plants from taking up water, leading to drying.
  6. Improper sun exposure. Just like humans, plants can get sunburn by intense, direct light. Plants can also dry out if they don’t receive enough light.
To determine whether the plant is still alive and can be saved, you can:
  1. Bend a stem. If the stem is pliable, the plant is still alive. If the stem breaks, the plant is dead.
  2. Gently scratch the stem with your fingernail for signs of green inside. If your plant is dead, the stem will be brittle and brown throughout.
  3. Cut the stems back a little bit a time for visible green growth. If none of the stems have visible green growth, the plant is dead.
Solutions
Solutions
The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method.
  1. Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly.
  2. Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems.
  3. Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species.
  4. Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil.
  5. Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.
Prevention
Prevention
Prevention involves providing your plant with the proper environment.
  1. Provide the proper amount of water. The amount of water depends on a plant’s size, species, and environment. A general rule is to allow soil to dry out between waterings.
  2. Place plants in the proper environment. Provide the proper hours of sun and temperature for your individual plant.
  3. Provide proper fertility. Most plants only need to be fertilized once or twice a year; don’t overapply.
  4. Keep plants free from toxic substances. Keep herbicides and toxic household chemicals away from your plants.
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Flower withering
plant poor
Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Overview
Overview
Flower withering occurs when flowers become weak, droopy, wilted, or faded until they can’t be revived. During withering, they begin to wrinkle and shrink until the flower becomes completely dry or dead.
Any flowers, regardless of the plant type or the climate they are grown in, are susceptible to withering. It is a worldwide problem across houseplants, herbs, flowering ornamentals, trees, shrubs, garden vegetables, and food crops.
Unlike wilting—which withering is often confused with—withering can be caused by different things and is often due to more than a lack of water. Withering can be fatal in severe cases.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Flower withering progresses from very mild cases to severe occurrences that kill the flower. The severity of the symptoms is related to the cause and how long the condition is allowed to progress before action is taken.
  • Wilted, droopy flowers
  • Petals and leaves begin to wrinkle
  • Brown papery streaks or spots appear on the petals and leaf tips
  • Flowerhead shrink in size
  • Petal color fades
  • Yellowing leaves
  • Complete death of the flower
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
The main causes of flower withering include natural age progress, lack of water, nutritional deficiencies, and bacterial or fungal diseases. It’s critical to determine the underlying cause when flower withering is noticed. This will guide the best course of action, if treatment is possible.
Check the soil for moisture and then closely examine the entire plant for signs of nutrient deficiencies. If neither of those appears to be the cause then cut open the stem below a flower. If a cross-section reveals brown or rust-colored stains it is safe to assume that this is a bacterial or fungal infection.
If the flower is nearing the end of its normal lifespan, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence, or cell aging and death. Cell division stops and the plant begins breaking down resources within the flower to use in other parts of the plant.
In all other cases, flower withering happens when the plant seals off the stem as a defense mechanism, stopping transport within the vascular system. This prevents further water loss through the flowers but also stops bacteria and fungi from moving to healthy parts of the plant. Once water and nutrient transport stops, the flower begins to wither and ultimately die.
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Leaf scorch
plant poor
Leaf scorch
Leaf blight causes leaves to dry out and turn brown starting at their tips.
Overview
Overview
Leaf scorch refers to two general conditions: physiological leaf scorch and bacterial leaf scorch. It causes leaves to discolor starting along the margins, and eventually die.
Leaf scorch development is most common in the hot, dry season, becoming most noticeable in late summer. However, it can occur at other times of the year. It most often affects young trees and shrubs, but it can also affect flowers, vegetables, and other plants.
Leaf scorch can get progressively worse over multiple seasons. If the root causes are not addressed, leaf scorch can lead to plant death.
While you cannot reverse the damage caused by physiological leaf scorch, you can prevent further damage. With proper management, plants will fully recover. However, there is no cure for bacterial leaf scorch, which is a systemic infection.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
  • Yellow, brown, or blackened leaves starting with the leaf margins
  • Dying twig tips on trees and shrubs as leaves die and fall
  • Often there is a bright yellow border line between the dead and living leaf tissue
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
There are numerous contributing causes of leaf scorch.
Bacterial leaf scorch is caused by the bacterium Xylella fastidiosa. The bacteria block the xylem vessels, preventing water movement. Symptoms may vary across species.
Physiological leaf scorch most commonly occurs when a plant cannot take up enough water. Numerous conditions can lead to this issue, particularly an unhealthy root system. Some causes of an unhealthy root system include overly-compacted soil, recent tillage, root compaction and severing due to pavement or other construction, drought, and overly-saturated soils.
Potassium deficiency can contribute to leaf scorch. Since plants need potassium to move water, they cannot properly move water when there is a lack of potassium.
Too much fertilizer can also cause leaf scorch symptoms. The accumulation of salts (including nutrient salts from fertilizers, as well as salt water) accumulate at the leaf margins and may build up to concentrations that burn the tissues.
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Lace bugs
plant poor
Lace bugs
Lace bugs are 3 to 5 mm translucent flying insects that suck sap from the plant.
Overview
Overview
Lace bugs are tiny winged insect pests that feed on the sap of the plant that they infest. There are a number of different types, which each attack certain species of plants. A severe infestation can cause leaf drop, and a reduction of fruit yield also occurs on infested fruit trees. They are most active in late summer and fall.
Lace bugs can be difficult to detect, so damage may be seen before the insect pests are detected. While adult lace bugs are brown to black with lacy wings that lay flat against their body, the nymphs are clear when they first hatch and then gradually turn black. They have small spines around their bodies. These nymphs will mature into adults within 3 or 4 weeks.
Although the damage caused by lace bugs is somewhat unsightly, it does not seriously harm the plant. The most susceptible species of plants include azaleas, rhododendrons, olive and macadamia trees, and plane trees.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
When lace bugs infest a plant's leaves, yellow spots can be seen on the upper surface. The underside of the leaves is usually fouled with black bug droppings that are tar-like.
Lace bugs spend their entire lifecycle on the leaves of the plant they have infested, from egg to adult. They are tiny sap-sucking insects that are around 3 mm long. The adults lay their eggs on the undersides of the leaves. When the eggs hatch, the nymphs start to feed on the sap of the leaves.
When an entire leaf is infested, it takes on a bronze appearance. Eventually, severely affected leaves will drop off the plant.
Some lace bugs also feed on flower buds. This causes the tips of the flowers to blacken. Eventually, the entire flower will turn black and drop off.
Solutions
Solutions
Lace bugs can be controlled in various ways.
For severe cases:
  1. Introduce beneficial insects that eat lace bugs, such as parasitoid wasps, assassin bugs, and lady beetles. Avoid spraying unnecessary pesticides so as not to reduce the populations of these helpful predators.
  2. Spray plants with insecticidal soap or neem oil under all leaves of the affected and surrounding plants. Make sure the soap hits the insects. Spray in the morning, evening, or on a cloudy day to avoid damaging plant tissue.
  3. Trim and burn heavily infected plant limbs.
  4. As a last resort use an insecticide containing pyrethroids to kill the lace bugs. Remember that these products will also likely kill beneficial insects such as bees.
For less severe cases:
  1. Rub off lace bugs from under the leaves using a damp cloth.
  2. Use the strong stream of a hose to spray these pests off plants. This washes the nymphs off and onto the ground where they cannot return to the leaves of the plant.
  3. Large trees generally do not need to be treated for lace bugs, since they don't damage their overall health.
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distribution

Distribution of Blue fescue

Habitat of Blue fescue

Well-drained soil
Northern Hemisphere
South Hemisphere

Distribution Map of Blue fescue

distribution map
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
habit
care_scenes

More Info on Blue Fescue Growth and Care

Basic Care Guide
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Lighting
Full sun
The blue fescue thrives under full exposure to the sun, promoting healthy growth. It can, however, withstand areas with lesser sunlight. Its origins from sun-drenched habitats suggest a robust adaptation to various light conditions. Both excessive and limited light may hinder its vitality, but it displays noteworthy light tolerance.
Best Sunlight Practices
Temperature
-20 38 ℃
The blue fescue prefers a cool to moderate temperature range of 41 to 95 ℉ (5 to 35 ℃) in its native growth environment. It can tolerate temperatures as low as 23 ℉ (-5 ℃) during winter dormancy. In hot summer months, the plant may benefit from partial shade or frequent watering to help regulate temperatures.
Temp for Healthy Growth
Transplant
9-12 inches
For a successful transplant of blue fescue, choose the period between early spring and late spring or mid-fall to late fall as the ideal season. Prioritize a location with well-drained soil and full sun exposure. Remember, a gentle touch during transplanting helps maintain healthy roots.
Transplant Techniques
Feng shui direction
West
The blue fescue having a serene, silvery-blue hue syncs well with the energy of West, bringing a peaceful balance to your space. This resonates with Feng Shui, as the West signifies metal element and it is widely agreed that lighter shades like blue evoke tranquility, fitting seamlessly within the metallic realm.
Fengshui Details
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Cape marguerite
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Beggar's lice
Beggar's lice
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Beach spider lily
Beach spider lily
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Moreton bay fig
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Red maple
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Cotton fruit
Cotton fruit
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Golden pothos
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Care Guide
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Pests & Diseases
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Related Plants
Blue fescue
Blue fescue
Blue fescue
Festuca glauca
Blue fescue (*Festuca glauca*) is a clump-forming ornamental grass that is an evergreen perennial. Blue fescue is often planted for ornamental groundcover, but can become a weed if not carefully controlled. The Latin name Festuca glauca means "pale blue-grey."
Planting Time
Planting Time
Spring
question

Questions About Blue fescue

Watering Watering Watering
Pruning Pruning Pruning
Sunlight Sunlight Sunlight
Temperature Temperature Temperature
Fertilizing Fertilizing Fertilizing
What should I do if I water my Blue fescue too much or too little?
more
How often should I water my Blue fescue?
more
What should I be careful with when I water my Blue fescue in different seasons, climates, or during different growing?
more
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plant_info

Key Facts About Blue fescue

Attributes of Blue fescue

Lifespan
Perennial
Plant Type
Grass
Planting Time
Spring
Bloom Time
Summer, Fall
Plant Height
14 cm to 18 cm
Spread
45 cm
Leaf Color
Green
Blue
Flower Size
15 cm
Flower Color
Green
Purple
Yellow
Blue
Brown
Dormancy
Winter dormancy
Leaf type
Evergreen
Growth Season
Spring, Summer
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Usages

Garden Use
Blue fescue is a drought-proof ornamental grass with needle-like silver-blue rigid foliage that can add a great color accent to gravel and rock gardens, providing contrast with other plantings. Growing in compact mounds, it makes a good ground cover, looks great in beds and edging, and is suitable as a container plant.

Scientific Classification of Blue fescue

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pests

Common Pests & Diseases About Blue fescue

Common issues for Blue fescue based on 10 million real cases
Plant dried up
Plant dried up Plant dried up Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.
Solutions: The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method. Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly. Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems. Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species. Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil. Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.
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Flower withering
Flower withering Flower withering Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Solutions: If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible. For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface. In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well. If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.
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Leaf scorch
Leaf scorch Leaf scorch Leaf scorch
Leaf blight causes leaves to dry out and turn brown starting at their tips.
Solutions: The solution to leaf scorch will depend on the cause, however, in general all cultural care methods that improve plant health and root functionality will reduce symptoms. Mulching the root zone (preferably with wood chip mulch) helps retain moisture, reduce evaporation, and promotes a healthy, functional root environment that is critical for water movement to the leaves. Check the root collar for girdling or circling roots that strangle the trunk and limit water and nutrient movement. Protect trees from severe root damage of nearby construction and excavation. If fertilizer burn is to blame, irrigate the soil deeply to flush out excess fertilizer salts. However, keep in mind that fertilizer runoff is an environmental pollutant. Avoiding excess fertilization in the first place is the best approach. If soil testing has revealed a potassium deficiency, apply a potassium fertilizer and water well. Even if you have enough potassium in the soil, plants will not be able to take it up if the soil is consistently too dry. Severely affected twigs may be removed using a pair of sharp and sanitized pruning shears, as weakened branches are susceptible to secondary infections. If your plant has bacterial leaf scorch, there is no cure. Antibiotic injections applied by a professional can reduce symptoms for a season, however, the above cultural management methods are the best options to reduce symptoms and prolong life. An infected plant will likely die within ten years.
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Lace bugs
Lace bugs Lace bugs Lace bugs
Lace bugs are 3 to 5 mm translucent flying insects that suck sap from the plant.
Solutions: Lace bugs can be controlled in various ways. For severe cases: Introduce beneficial insects that eat lace bugs, such as parasitoid wasps, assassin bugs, and lady beetles. Avoid spraying unnecessary pesticides so as not to reduce the populations of these helpful predators. Spray plants with insecticidal soap or neem oil under all leaves of the affected and surrounding plants. Make sure the soap hits the insects. Spray in the morning, evening, or on a cloudy day to avoid damaging plant tissue. Trim and burn heavily infected plant limbs. As a last resort use an insecticide containing pyrethroids to kill the lace bugs. Remember that these products will also likely kill beneficial insects such as bees. For less severe cases: Rub off lace bugs from under the leaves using a damp cloth. Use the strong stream of a hose to spray these pests off plants. This washes the nymphs off and onto the ground where they cannot return to the leaves of the plant. Large trees generally do not need to be treated for lace bugs, since they don't damage their overall health.
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Plant dried up
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Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Your plant has dried out and turned brown. It might be starting to wilt, with no noticeable green around the stems and leaves. Touch the leaves, and they may crinkle under your fingers.
Possible causes of a dried out plant include:
  1. Not enough water. A lack of water will lead to dry plant tissue.
  2. Too much water. Watering too much can lead to root rot which makes the plant struggle to take up water. Rotted, mushy roots are a sign of overeating.
  3. Entering dormancy. As perennial plants enter their resting period known as dormancy, their leaves dry out and may fall off. This happens during decreasing day length.
  4. Exposure to herbicides and other toxic substances. If a plant is hit with a large dose herbicide or other toxic chemical, the plant will turn brown.
  5. Too much fertility. An excess of fertilizer can prevent plants from taking up water, leading to drying.
  6. Improper sun exposure. Just like humans, plants can get sunburn by intense, direct light. Plants can also dry out if they don’t receive enough light.
To determine whether the plant is still alive and can be saved, you can:
  1. Bend a stem. If the stem is pliable, the plant is still alive. If the stem breaks, the plant is dead.
  2. Gently scratch the stem with your fingernail for signs of green inside. If your plant is dead, the stem will be brittle and brown throughout.
  3. Cut the stems back a little bit a time for visible green growth. If none of the stems have visible green growth, the plant is dead.
Solutions
Solutions
The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method.
  1. Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly.
  2. Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems.
  3. Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species.
  4. Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil.
  5. Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.
Prevention
Prevention
Prevention involves providing your plant with the proper environment.
  1. Provide the proper amount of water. The amount of water depends on a plant’s size, species, and environment. A general rule is to allow soil to dry out between waterings.
  2. Place plants in the proper environment. Provide the proper hours of sun and temperature for your individual plant.
  3. Provide proper fertility. Most plants only need to be fertilized once or twice a year; don’t overapply.
  4. Keep plants free from toxic substances. Keep herbicides and toxic household chemicals away from your plants.
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Flower withering
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Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Overview
Overview
Flower withering occurs when flowers become weak, droopy, wilted, or faded until they can’t be revived. During withering, they begin to wrinkle and shrink until the flower becomes completely dry or dead.
Any flowers, regardless of the plant type or the climate they are grown in, are susceptible to withering. It is a worldwide problem across houseplants, herbs, flowering ornamentals, trees, shrubs, garden vegetables, and food crops.
Unlike wilting—which withering is often confused with—withering can be caused by different things and is often due to more than a lack of water. Withering can be fatal in severe cases.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Flower withering progresses from very mild cases to severe occurrences that kill the flower. The severity of the symptoms is related to the cause and how long the condition is allowed to progress before action is taken.
  • Wilted, droopy flowers
  • Petals and leaves begin to wrinkle
  • Brown papery streaks or spots appear on the petals and leaf tips
  • Flowerhead shrink in size
  • Petal color fades
  • Yellowing leaves
  • Complete death of the flower
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
The main causes of flower withering include natural age progress, lack of water, nutritional deficiencies, and bacterial or fungal diseases. It’s critical to determine the underlying cause when flower withering is noticed. This will guide the best course of action, if treatment is possible.
Check the soil for moisture and then closely examine the entire plant for signs of nutrient deficiencies. If neither of those appears to be the cause then cut open the stem below a flower. If a cross-section reveals brown or rust-colored stains it is safe to assume that this is a bacterial or fungal infection.
If the flower is nearing the end of its normal lifespan, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence, or cell aging and death. Cell division stops and the plant begins breaking down resources within the flower to use in other parts of the plant.
In all other cases, flower withering happens when the plant seals off the stem as a defense mechanism, stopping transport within the vascular system. This prevents further water loss through the flowers but also stops bacteria and fungi from moving to healthy parts of the plant. Once water and nutrient transport stops, the flower begins to wither and ultimately die.
Solutions
Solutions
If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface.
In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well.
If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.
Prevention
Prevention
This is definitely one of those instances where prevention is more effective than cure. Here are some preventative measures for avoiding premature flower withering.
  • Water plants according to their needs -- either keep the soil slightly moist or allow the top inch or two to dry out before watering again.
  • Fertilize lightly on a consistent basis, depending upon the plant’s growth. Quick-growing plants and those that flower or develop fruit will need more frequent fertilizing than slow-growing plants.
  • Purchase plants that are certified disease- or pathogen-free.
  • Look for disease-resistant cultivars.
  • Isolate plants showing disease symptoms to prevent the spread to neighboring plants.
  • Practice good plant hygiene by removing any fallen plant material as soon as possible.
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Leaf scorch
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Leaf scorch
Leaf blight causes leaves to dry out and turn brown starting at their tips.
Overview
Overview
Leaf scorch refers to two general conditions: physiological leaf scorch and bacterial leaf scorch. It causes leaves to discolor starting along the margins, and eventually die.
Leaf scorch development is most common in the hot, dry season, becoming most noticeable in late summer. However, it can occur at other times of the year. It most often affects young trees and shrubs, but it can also affect flowers, vegetables, and other plants.
Leaf scorch can get progressively worse over multiple seasons. If the root causes are not addressed, leaf scorch can lead to plant death.
While you cannot reverse the damage caused by physiological leaf scorch, you can prevent further damage. With proper management, plants will fully recover. However, there is no cure for bacterial leaf scorch, which is a systemic infection.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
  • Yellow, brown, or blackened leaves starting with the leaf margins
  • Dying twig tips on trees and shrubs as leaves die and fall
  • Often there is a bright yellow border line between the dead and living leaf tissue
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
There are numerous contributing causes of leaf scorch.
Bacterial leaf scorch is caused by the bacterium Xylella fastidiosa. The bacteria block the xylem vessels, preventing water movement. Symptoms may vary across species.
Physiological leaf scorch most commonly occurs when a plant cannot take up enough water. Numerous conditions can lead to this issue, particularly an unhealthy root system. Some causes of an unhealthy root system include overly-compacted soil, recent tillage, root compaction and severing due to pavement or other construction, drought, and overly-saturated soils.
Potassium deficiency can contribute to leaf scorch. Since plants need potassium to move water, they cannot properly move water when there is a lack of potassium.
Too much fertilizer can also cause leaf scorch symptoms. The accumulation of salts (including nutrient salts from fertilizers, as well as salt water) accumulate at the leaf margins and may build up to concentrations that burn the tissues.
Solutions
Solutions
The solution to leaf scorch will depend on the cause, however, in general all cultural care methods that improve plant health and root functionality will reduce symptoms.
  • Mulching the root zone (preferably with wood chip mulch) helps retain moisture, reduce evaporation, and promotes a healthy, functional root environment that is critical for water movement to the leaves.
  • Check the root collar for girdling or circling roots that strangle the trunk and limit water and nutrient movement.
  • Protect trees from severe root damage of nearby construction and excavation.
  • If fertilizer burn is to blame, irrigate the soil deeply to flush out excess fertilizer salts. However, keep in mind that fertilizer runoff is an environmental pollutant. Avoiding excess fertilization in the first place is the best approach.
  • If soil testing has revealed a potassium deficiency, apply a potassium fertilizer and water well. Even if you have enough potassium in the soil, plants will not be able to take it up if the soil is consistently too dry.
  • Severely affected twigs may be removed using a pair of sharp and sanitized pruning shears, as weakened branches are susceptible to secondary infections.
  • If your plant has bacterial leaf scorch, there is no cure. Antibiotic injections applied by a professional can reduce symptoms for a season, however, the above cultural management methods are the best options to reduce symptoms and prolong life. An infected plant will likely die within ten years.
Prevention
Prevention
  • Physiological leaf scorch is best avoided by making sure your plants have a healthy, functional root system and access to enough water. Water regularly, especially on the mornings of excessively hot, sunny days. Deep, infrequent irrigation is better than shallow, frequent irrigation.
  • Have your soil tested and apply the proper nutrients. Be sure to not over-apply fertilizers.
  • Make sure your plants’ roots have room to expand. Avoid compacted soil as well and avoid paving areas above the root zone. Do not till or disturb the soil where plant roots are growing.
  • Plant new trees and shrubs in the fall, so that they have the maximum amount of time to become established before the environmental stresses of the next summer.
  • Remove any dead or dying plant tissue that may harbor secondary infections.
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Lace bugs
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Lace bugs
Lace bugs are 3 to 5 mm translucent flying insects that suck sap from the plant.
Overview
Overview
Lace bugs are tiny winged insect pests that feed on the sap of the plant that they infest. There are a number of different types, which each attack certain species of plants. A severe infestation can cause leaf drop, and a reduction of fruit yield also occurs on infested fruit trees. They are most active in late summer and fall.
Lace bugs can be difficult to detect, so damage may be seen before the insect pests are detected. While adult lace bugs are brown to black with lacy wings that lay flat against their body, the nymphs are clear when they first hatch and then gradually turn black. They have small spines around their bodies. These nymphs will mature into adults within 3 or 4 weeks.
Although the damage caused by lace bugs is somewhat unsightly, it does not seriously harm the plant. The most susceptible species of plants include azaleas, rhododendrons, olive and macadamia trees, and plane trees.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
When lace bugs infest a plant's leaves, yellow spots can be seen on the upper surface. The underside of the leaves is usually fouled with black bug droppings that are tar-like.
Lace bugs spend their entire lifecycle on the leaves of the plant they have infested, from egg to adult. They are tiny sap-sucking insects that are around 3 mm long. The adults lay their eggs on the undersides of the leaves. When the eggs hatch, the nymphs start to feed on the sap of the leaves.
When an entire leaf is infested, it takes on a bronze appearance. Eventually, severely affected leaves will drop off the plant.
Some lace bugs also feed on flower buds. This causes the tips of the flowers to blacken. Eventually, the entire flower will turn black and drop off.
Solutions
Solutions
Lace bugs can be controlled in various ways.
For severe cases:
  1. Introduce beneficial insects that eat lace bugs, such as parasitoid wasps, assassin bugs, and lady beetles. Avoid spraying unnecessary pesticides so as not to reduce the populations of these helpful predators.
  2. Spray plants with insecticidal soap or neem oil under all leaves of the affected and surrounding plants. Make sure the soap hits the insects. Spray in the morning, evening, or on a cloudy day to avoid damaging plant tissue.
  3. Trim and burn heavily infected plant limbs.
  4. As a last resort use an insecticide containing pyrethroids to kill the lace bugs. Remember that these products will also likely kill beneficial insects such as bees.
For less severe cases:
  1. Rub off lace bugs from under the leaves using a damp cloth.
  2. Use the strong stream of a hose to spray these pests off plants. This washes the nymphs off and onto the ground where they cannot return to the leaves of the plant.
  3. Large trees generally do not need to be treated for lace bugs, since they don't damage their overall health.
Prevention
Prevention
Simple steps for preventing lace bugs:
  1. Avoid buying or transplanting plants with an infestation, by examining the leaves closely.
  2. Keep plants in top health with regular watering, compost, and fertilizer applications.
  3. Move heat-stressed plants in high sun locations to partial shade.
  4. Clear debris around plants to remove overwintering insects.
  5. Check plants for lace bugs in the late spring before their population peaks in the summer. Treat before populations increase.
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distribution

Distribution of Blue fescue

Habitat of Blue fescue

Well-drained soil
Northern Hemisphere
South Hemisphere

Distribution Map of Blue fescue

distribution map
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
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More Info on Blue Fescue Growth and Care

Basic Care Guide
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Plants Related to Blue fescue

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Lighting
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Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
Choose a site here for personalized care tips.
Requirements
Full sun
Ideal
Above 6 hours sunlight
Partial sun
Tolerance
About 3-6 hours sunlight
Watch how sunlight gracefully moves through your garden, and choose spots that provide the perfect balance of light and shade for your plants, ensuring their happiness.
Essentials
The blue fescue thrives under full exposure to the sun, promoting healthy growth. It can, however, withstand areas with lesser sunlight. Its origins from sun-drenched habitats suggest a robust adaptation to various light conditions. Both excessive and limited light may hinder its vitality, but it displays noteworthy light tolerance.
Preferred
Tolerable
Unsuitable
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Artificial lighting
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
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Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
Important Symptoms
Insufficient light
Blue fescue thrives in full sunlight and is commonly grown outdoors where it receives ample sunlight. When placed in rooms with inadequate lighting, symptoms of light deficiency may not be readily apparent.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Small leaves
New leaves may grow smaller in size compared to the previous ones once they have matured.
Leggy or sparse growth
The spaces between leaves or stems of your blue fescue may become longer, resulting in a thin and stretched-out appearance. This can make the plant look sparse and weak, and it may easily break or lean due to its own weight.
Faster leaf drop
When plants are exposed to low light conditions, they tend to shed older leaves early to conserve resources. Within a limited time, these resources can be utilized to grow new leaves until the plant's energy reserves are depleted.
Slower or no new growth
Blue fescue enters a survival mode when light conditions are poor, which leads to a halt in leaf production. As a result, the plant's growth becomes delayed or stops altogether.
Lighter-colored new leaves
Insufficient sunlight can cause leaves to develop irregular color patterns or appear pale. This indicates a lack of chlorophyll and essential nutrients.
Solutions
1. To ensure optimal growth, gradually move plants to a sunnier location each week, until they receive at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Use a south-facing window and keep curtains open during the day for maximum sunlight exposure and nutrient accumulation.2. To provide additional light for your plant, consider using artificial light if it's large or not easily movable. Keep a desk or ceiling lamp on for at least 8 hours daily, or invest in professional plant grow lights for ample light.
Excessive light
Blue fescue thrives in full sun exposure and can tolerate intense sunlight. With their remarkable resilience, symptoms of sunburn may not be easily visible, as they rarely suffer from it.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Chlorosis
Chlorosis is a condition where the plant's leaves lose their green color and turn yellow. This is due to the breakdown of chlorophyll from excessive sunlight, which negatively affects the plant's ability to photosynthesize.
Sunscald
Sunscald occurs when the plant's leaves or stems are damaged by intense sunlight exposure. It appears as pale, bleached, or necrotic areas on the plant tissue and can reduce the plant's overall health.
Leaf Curling
Leaf curling is a symptom where leaves curl or twist under extreme sunlight conditions. This is a defense mechanism used by the plant to reduce its surface area exposed to sunlight, minimizing water loss and damage.
Wilting
Wilting occurs when a plant loses turgor pressure and its leaves and stems begin to droop. Overexposure to sunlight can cause wilting by increasing the plant's water loss through transpiration, making it difficult for the plant to maintain adequate hydration.
Leaf Scorching
Leaf scorching is a symptom characterized by the appearance of brown, dry, and crispy edges or patches on leaves due to excessive sunlight. This can lead to a reduction in photosynthetic capacity and overall plant health.
Solutions
1. Move your plant to the optimal position where it can receive abundant sunlight but also have some shade. An east-facing window is an ideal choice as the morning sunlight is gentler. This way, your plant can enjoy ample sunlight while reducing the risk of sunburn.2. It is recommended to trim off any completely dehydrated or withered parts of the plant.
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Temperature
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Indoor
Outdoor
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Requirements
Ideal
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Just like people, each plant has its own preferences. Learn about your plants' temperature needs and create a comforting environment for them to flourish. As you care for your plants, your bond with them will deepen. Trust your intuition as you learn about their temperature needs, celebrating the journey you share. Lovingly monitor the temperature around your plants and adjust their environment as needed. A thermometer can be your ally in this heartfelt endeavor. Be patient and gentle with yourself as you explore your plants' temperature needs. Cherish your successes, learn from challenges, and nurture your garden with love, creating a haven that reflects the warmth of your care.
Essentials
The blue fescue prefers a cool to moderate temperature range of 41 to 95 ℉ (5 to 35 ℃) in its native growth environment. It can tolerate temperatures as low as 23 ℉ (-5 ℃) during winter dormancy. In hot summer months, the plant may benefit from partial shade or frequent watering to help regulate temperatures.
Regional wintering strategies
Blue fescue has strong cold resistance, so special frost protection measures are usually not necessary during winter. However, if the winter temperatures are expected to drop below {Limit_growth_temperature}, it is still important to provide cold protection. This can be achieved by covering the plant with materials such as soil or straw. Before the first freeze in autumn, it is recommended to water the plant abundantly, ensuring the soil remains moist and enters a frozen state. This helps prevent drought and water scarcity for the plant during winter and early spring.
Important Symptoms
Low Temperature
Blue fescue is cold-tolerant and thrives best when the temperature is above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min}. During winter, it should be kept above {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}. When the temperature falls below {Limit_growth_temperature}, although there may not be any noticeable changes during winter, there may be a decrease in sprouting or even no sprouting during springtime.
Solutions
In spring, remove any parts that have failed to sprout.
High Temperature
During summer, Blue fescue should be kept below {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}. When the temperature exceeds {Tolerable_growing_temperature_max}, the leaves of the plant may become lighter in color, prone to curling, susceptible to sunburn, and in severe cases, the entire plant may wilt and become dry.
Solutions
Trim away the sunburned and dried-up parts. Move the plant to a location that provides shade from the midday and afternoon sun, or use a shade cloth to create shade. Water the plant in the morning and evening to keep the soil moist.
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Transplant
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How to Successfully Transplant Blue Fescue?
For a successful transplant of blue fescue, choose the period between early spring and late spring or mid-fall to late fall as the ideal season. Prioritize a location with well-drained soil and full sun exposure. Remember, a gentle touch during transplanting helps maintain healthy roots.
What Preparations are Needed Before Transplanting Blue Fescue?
What is the Ideal Time for Transplanting Blue Fescue?
For blue fescue, the perfect transplanting time falls between the awakening of spring until it's blooming or from the color-changing mid-autumn to the leaf-falling season. Transplanting blue fescue during these periods encourages strong root development, provides ample time for recovery before harsher weather sets in, and maximizes the joyful hues of this perennial's silvery-blue foliage. It's kinda like giving blue fescue a head-start for the prime-time show. Just imagine your garden dressed in a silver-blue carpet of blue fescue - utterly mesmerizing isn't it? So go ahead, mark your calendars and let's give blue fescue the best start possible!
How Much Space Should You Leave Between Blue Fescue Plants?
For blue fescue, it's best to provide them some room to grow. Aim for a spacing of about 9-12 inches (23-30 cm) apart when transplanting. This will ensure they have enough space to thrive and spread out.
What is the Best Soil Mix for Blue Fescue Transplanting?
Preparing the soil for blue fescue is simple. Opt for well-draining soil with a slightly acidic to neutral pH level (6.0-7.0). To promote healthy growth, mix in some compost or a slow-release, balanced fertilizer before transplanting.
Where Should You Relocate Your Blue Fescue?
Select a location in your garden where blue fescue will receive full sunlight exposure or, at the least, partial shade. This usually means receiving 6-8 hours of sunlight per day. A sunny spot will encourage strong growth and vibrant foliage color.
What Equipments Should You Prepare Before Transplantation Blue Fescue?
Gardening Gloves
To protect your hands while working with the soil and plant.
Shovel or Spade
For digging holes and lifting the plant with its root ball.
Garden Trowel
For transplanting seedlings and working with soil in smaller spaces.
Pruning Shears
To trim back any damaged or dead foliage from the plant.
Watering Can or Garden Hose
To water the plant both before and after transplanting.
Organic Compost or Fertilizer
To support healthy growth and development of blue fescue's root system.
How Do You Remove Blue Fescue from the Soil?
From Ground: First, water the blue fescue plant to dampen the soil. Then, dig a wide trench around the plant using a shovel or spade, ensuring the plant's root ball remains intact. Carefully work the spade under the root ball to lift the plant from its original location.
From Pot: Water the blue fescue's soil to make it easier to remove. Invert the pot, tapping the bottom and rim as needed to release the plant along with its root ball. Be gentle and avoid damaging the roots during the process.
From Seedling Tray: Moisten the soil around the seedling and use a garden trowel to gently lift the seedling without damaging its delicate roots. Hold the blue fescue seedling by its leaves, rather than the stem, as you work.
Step-by-Step Guide for Transplanting Blue Fescue
Step1 Dig the Hole
In the chosen location, dig a hole that is twice the width and equal depth of blue fescue's root ball or pot.
Step2 Amend the Soil
Optionally, mix a handful of compost or slow-release fertilizer into the soil at the bottom of the hole, providing nutrients and improving soil structure for the blue fescue's roots.
Step3 Place the Plant
Gently place the blue fescue in the hole, keeping the root ball intact. Ensure the plant is sitting at the same depth it was at in its original location, with the top of the root ball level with the ground.
Step4 Backfill the Hole
Fill the hole back in with the removed soil, gently pressing the soil around the root ball to eliminate air pockets and secure the plant.
Step5 Water
Thoroughly water the blue fescue at the base, allowing the water to soak into the root ball and surrounding soil.
Step6 Mulch
Add a layer of organic mulch around the base of the plant to help retain moisture and suppress weeds.
How Do You Care For Blue Fescue After Transplanting?
Watering
For the first few weeks after transplanting, keep the soil consistently moist, but not soggy, to help the blue fescue establish strong roots. Gradually decrease watering frequency as the plant becomes established.
Pruning
Regularly trim back dead or damaged foliage to promote new growth and maintain the blue fescue's overall health and appearance.
Feeding
Apply a slow-release fertilizer or compost to provide essential nutrients for the blue fescue's growth. Follow the manufacturer's recommendations for frequency and application rate.
Pest and Disease Control
Monitor the blue fescue for signs of pests or diseases, and treat promptly if required, using appropriate organic or chemical solutions as necessary.
Troubleshooting Common Issues with Blue Fescue Transplantation.
When is the optimal time for transplanting blue fescue?
The ideal window for transplanting blue fescue is from early to late spring and mid to late fall. It allows your plant to take root before extreme weather conditions.
How should I arrange blue fescue in my garden during transplantation?
For optimal growth, ensure each blue fescue is spaced about 9-12 inches (23-30 cm) apart. This spacing enables healthy growth and prevents overcrowding.
Is it crucial to water blue fescue immediately after transplanting?
Yes, it's vital to water blue fescue right after transplanting. It enables the root system to establish in the new environment and reduces transplant shock.
What sort of soil is best suited for transplanting blue fescue?
Blue fescue thrives in well-drained soil with a neutral to slightly alkaline pH. If your soil isn't like that naturally, consider amending it with compost or sand to achieve the desired texture.
How deep should I plant blue fescue when I'm transplanting?
The planting depth of blue fescue should match the original growing condition. Too deep or too shallow planting can harm the root system and hinder growth.
How should I prepare blue fescue for the transplanting process?
Before transplanting, water blue fescue thoroughly to make the extraction process less stressful. Ensure you maintain a decent clump of soil around the roots during the move.
Why are my transplanted blue fescue turning brown?
Browning might be a sign of transplant shock or inadequate water supply. Make sure your blue fescue is receiving enough water and is protected from extreme weather.
Why are my freshly transplanted blue fescue wilting?
Wilting can indicate a water issue or transplant shock. Ensure consistent watering after transplanting. If the problem persists, consider adding organic matter to improve soil water retention.
How can I prevent root damage while transplanting blue fescue?
To prevent root damage during transplanting, ensure blue fescue has been watered beforehand. Use a gardening shovel or spade, taking care to retain a soil clump around the roots.
Should I fertilize blue fescue following transplantation?
Fertilizing immediately after transplanting might not be necessary as it can cause stress. However, after a few weeks, you might use a slow-release fertilizer to provide nutrients for blue fescue's growth.
Discover information about plant diseases, toxicity, weed control and more.
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