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Lemon balm play
Lemon balm
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Lemon balm
Lemon balm
Lemon balm
Lemon balm
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Lemon balm
Melissa officinalis
Also known as : Balm mint, Balm, Balm Leaf, Honey Plant, Dropsywort
Lemon balm (Melissa officinalis) is an herbaceous perennial famous for its essential oils and mild scent. Its oils and extracts are widely used in perfume and beauty products, as well as household cleaning products. Lemon balm can be cultivated as an ornamental plant that also attracts honeybees. It has been grown and cultivated by humans since at least the 16th century.
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care guide

Care Guide for Lemon balm

The key to knowing when to water lemon balm is to look at its leaves. Water the plant as soon as they begin to look wilted. Timings can vary depending on the plant's location. so checking the leaves is the best indicator. Water deeply so that it reaches the entire root system and make sure the soil has dried somewhat before rewatering.
Fertilization
Fertilization
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Lemon balm performs better when fed using a soil mulch rather than a fertilizer. This is because the plant's delightful aroma is reduced by using fertilizers. So instead of fertilizing apply an inch or two of good organic mulch to the soil at the start of the growing season.
Trim the diseased, withered leaves once a month.
Sand, Clay, Loam, Chalky, Acidic, Neutral, Alkaline
Potting Suggestions
Potting Suggestions
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Needs excellent drainage in pots.
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Questions About Lemon balm

Watering Watering Watering
Pruning Pruning Pruning
Sunlight Sunlight Sunlight
Temperature Temperature Temperature
Fertilizing Fertilizing Fertilizing
What is the best way to water my Lemon balm?
When watering the Lemon balm, you should aim to use filtered water that is at room temperature. Filtered water is better for this plant, as tap water can contain particles that are harmful to its health. The reason that the water should be at room temperature or slightly warmer is that the Lemon balm comes from a warm environment, and cold water can be somewhat of a shock to its system. Also, you should avoid overhead watering for this plant, as it can cause foliage complications. Instead, simply apply your filtered room temperature water to the soil until the soil is entirely soaked. Soaking the soil can be very beneficial for this plant as it moistens the roots and helps them continue to spread through the soil and collect the nutrients they need.
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What should I do if I water my Lemon balm too much or too little?
Both overwatering and underwatering will be detrimental to the health of your Lemon balm, but overwatering is a far more common issue. When this species receives too much water, its stems and leaves may begin to wilt and turn from green to yellow. Overwatering over a prolonged period may also lead to diseases such as root rot, mold, and mildew, all of which can kill your plant. Underwatering is far less common for the Lemon balm, as this plant has decent drought tolerance. However, underwatering remains a possibility, and when it occurs, you can expect to find that the leaves of your Lemon balm have become brittle and brown.
It is crucial that you notice the signs of overwatering as soon as possible when caring for your Lemon balm. Some of the diseases that arise from overwatering, such as root rot, may not be correctable if you wait too long. If you see early signs of overwatering, you should reduce your watering schedule immediately. You may also want to assess the quality of soil in which your Lemon balm grows. If you find that the soil drains very poorly, you should replace it immediately with a loose, well-draining potting mix. On the other hand, if you find signs that your Lemon balm is receiving too little water, all you need to do is water more regularly until those signs have subsided.
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How often should I water my Lemon balm?
If your plant is in a pot. The most precise way to decide whether your Lemon balm needs water is to plunge your finger into the soil. If you notice that the first two to three inches of soil have become dry, it is time to add some water.
If you grow your Lemon balm outdoors in the ground, you can use a similar method to test the soil. Again, when you find that the first few inches of soil have dried out, it is time to add water. During the spring and early fall, this method will often lead you to water this plant about once every week. When extremely hot weather arrives, you may need to increase your watering frequency to about twice or more per week. With that said, mature, well-established the Lemon balm can show an admirable ability to withstand drought.
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How much water does my Lemon balm need?
When it comes time to water your Lemon balm, you should not be shy about how much water you give. With the first two to three inches of soil dry, this plant will appreciate a long and thorough watering. Supply enough water to soak the soil entirely. The amount of water you add should be enough to cause excess water to flow through the drainage holes at the bottom of your pot. If you don’t see excess water draining from the pot, you have likely underwatered your plant. But do not let the water accumulate inside the soil, which will be very dangerous to the plant as well. Alternatively, a lack of water draining through the pot could indicate poorly draining soils, which is detrimental to the health of this plant and should be avoided. If the plant is outside, 1 inch of rain per week will be sufficient.
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How should I water my Lemon balm at different growth stages?
The water needs of the Lemon balm can change depending on growth stages as well. For example, when your Lemon balm is in the first few years of its life, or if you have just transplanted it to a new growing location, you will need to give more water than usual. During both of those stages, your Lemon balm will put a lot of energy towards sprouting new roots that will then support future growth. For those roots to perform their best, they need a bit more moisture than they would at a more mature phase. After a few seasons, your Lemon balm will need much less water. Another growth stage in which this plant may need more water is during the bloom period. Flower development can make use of a significant amount of moisture, which is why you might need to give your Lemon balm more water at this time.
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How should I water my Lemon balm through the seasons?
The Lemon balm will have its highest water needs during the hottest months of the year. During the height of summer, you may need to give this plant water more than once per week, depending on how fast the soil dries out. The opposite is true during the winter. In winter, your plant will enter a dormant phase, in which it will need far less water than usual. In fact, you may not need to water this plant at all during the winter months. However, if you do water during winter, you should not do so more than about once per month. Watering too much at this time will make it more likely that your Lemon balm will contract a disease.
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What's the difference between watering my Lemon balm indoors and outdoors?
It is most common to grow the Lemon balm indoors for any gardener that does not live in temperate and tropical regions. Those gardeners should consider the fact that soil in a container can dry out a bit faster than ground soil. Also, the presence of drying elements such as air conditioning units can cause your Lemon balm to need water on a more frequent basis as well. if you planted it outside. When that is the case, it’s likely you won’t need to water your Lemon balm very much at all. If you receive rainfall on a regular basis, that may be enough to keep your plant alive. Alternatively, those who grow this plant inside will need to water it more often, as allowing rainwater to soak the soil will not be an option.
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Explore 5 of plant how-tos on Feng shui direction, Water, Lighting, Temperature, Transplant, etc.
Feng shui direction
East
Lemon balm harmonizes well with East-facing spaces, as it symbolizes growth, renewal and tranquility. This direction is associated with the Wood element, which lemon balm is said to enhance with its lush foliage, promoting balance and positive energy flow throughout the environment.
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Water
Every week
Lemon balm hails from regions in the Mediterranean, Western Asia, and South Europe where weather conditions involve humidity and natural soil moisture due to consistent, moderate rainfall. Such constant hydration without waterlogging frames lemon balm's watering preferences. Emulating this requires regular, light watering, enough to keep the soil moist but not drowned, signifying an innate tolerance for relatively higher moisture levels compared to dry-climate plants.
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Lighting
Full sun
Lemon balm thrives when exposed to abundant sunlight throughout the day, though it can also get by in slightly shadowed spots. Its origins in open meadows contribute to its sun-loving disposition. Overexposure may result in leaf scorching, while insufficient exposure could hinder its robust growth and vitality.
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Temperature
0 38 ℃
Lemon balm originates from regions where the temperatures are typically 68 to 95 °F (20 to 35 ℃). This indicates a distinct preference for a warmer climate. For optimum growth, adjust temperatures to meet these preferences whenever possible.
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Transplant
1-2 feet
Lemon balm ideally flourishes when transplanted during mid-spring to early summer, as this period offers optimal growing conditions. Choose a sunny or partially shaded location with well-draining soil. If necessary, enrich the soil with organic matter prior to transplanting for better growth.
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pests

Common Pests & Diseases

Common issues for Lemon balm based on 10 million real cases
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Solutions: For less serious cases: Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread. To treat more serious infestations: Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Brown spot
Brown spot Brown spot
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects can create dense clusters of small yellow or white spots on the leaves.
Solutions: Sap-sucking insects can be hard to spot, as they are often small and attach to the undersides of plant leaves. If you see signs of an infestation, follow these steps to eradicate it. Hand-pick bugs and remove eggs: Inspect your plants for insects and drop any you find in a container of soapy water. Look carefully at the undersides of plant leaves and squish any egg clusters you find. Use Insecticide: Targeted spraying can take out sap-sucking insects. Small infestations can be controlled with insecticidal soap, though larger outbreaks might require a stronger spray. Introduce natural predators: Many insects, including ladybugs and praying mantises, love to feast on sap-suckers. You can purchase them at garden stores and release them near infected plants, or encourage wild ones by creating habitat space.
Thrips
Thrips Thrips
Thrips
Thrips are 1 to 2 mm bugs with slender black or translucent-yellow bodies. They move quickly and feed on the plant's sap.
Solutions: Thrips can be controlled in several ways. Spray plants with Pyrethrin, which is an organic pesticide derived from marigolds (follow label instructions) or Permethrin, the synthetic version of Pyrethrin. Introduce beneficial insects to the garden that eat thrips, such as minute pirate bugs and green lacewings. Remove heavily infested plants from the area and discard. Address viral diseases that may have been transmitted by the pests. For less serious cases -use a hose to spray the thrips off of the plants.
Underwatering
Underwatering Underwatering
Underwatering
A lack of water will cause the leaves to gradually turn yellow starting at the base of the branch while the entire plant appears to wilt.
Solutions: Your plant is very thirsty and needs water promptly. You can revive your plant by giving it water. The easiest technique is to slowly pour water into your plant’s soil so that the whole surface is moistened. If you pour the water too quickly, the water will flow directly through rather than diffusing throughout the soil. If your plant’s pot does not have drainage holes, do not give your plant more than about a third of the pot’s volume of water. If your plant’s pot does have drainage holes, you can add water slowly until the soil is thoroughly moistened and the water flows freely through the pot. If you trim off yellow leaves to improve the plant’s appearance, do not remove more than a third of the plant’s leaves. It may be better to wait until leaves have died and fallen off to remove them.
Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
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Leaf beetles
plant poor
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Overview
Overview
Leaf beetles range in size from 1.5 mm to 2 cm. Both adult beetles and their larvae eat the leaves of many different types of plants. There are over 35,000 different species of leaf beetles, in a variety of colors including gold, green, yellow-striped, and red striped. Some of these have been mistaken for ladybirds because of their shape and coloring. They can be oval, round, or elongated in shape. These insect pests are most active in spring and summer.
If not controlled, leaf beetles can do a lot of damage to vegetable crops and ornamental plants. They feed on the leaves, flowers, stems, roots, and fruits of different plants. They can fly, which means it's easy for them to move from one plant to another. Some species of leaf beetles only target one specific crop, while others will target many different types of plants. Although a lot of the damage that they cause is cosmetic, an infestation can weaken a plant and leave it prone to other more problematic diseases.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The first signs of a leaf beetles infestation are small visible holes in leaves. Leaves then become discolored and dark beetle droppings can be seen. As the leaves turn yellow and brown, they will drop off the plant onto the ground. Some leaves will appear skeletonized with only the veins still remaining.
Infestation begins in spring, when the adult beetles emerge from the soil and lay their eggs on the leaves of plants. When these eggs hatch, the young nymphs start munching on the leaves as they grow up. Once leaf beetles are large and mature, they'll fall to the ground and pupate in the soil over winter before starting the cycle all over again.
Leaf beetles also eat holes in fruits and vegetables. These can be seen as small round holes that sometimes have a larger brown area surrounding them.
Solutions
Solutions
For less serious cases:
  1. Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread.
To treat more serious infestations:
  1. Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions.
  2. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Prevention
Prevention
To prevent infestations of leaf beetles, follow these practices.
  1. Regularly check for beetles. To prevent large pest infestations, be proactive about frequently checking plants for pests and removing them quickly.
  2. Clear debris. Clear weeds and debris to remove areas where these beetles may overwinter and hide.
  3. Attract natural predators. Birds and other insects, such as wasps and ladybugs, are effective natural predators of leaf beetles. Encourage them to visit by including a diverse array of plants to provide habitat and food. Also, avoid applying broad-spectrum herbicides that can harm and kill beneficial insects.
  4. Plant aromatic herbs like mint, garlic, or rosemary, as these can repel leaf beetles.
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Brown spot
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
  1. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
  2. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
  3. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
  • Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
  • Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
  • Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
  • Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
  • Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
  • Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
  • Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Sap-sucking insects
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Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects can create dense clusters of small yellow or white spots on the leaves.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Your plant has developed tiny yellowish spots scattered across the leaves that look like mold or mildew. If these marks won't wipe off, they are likely caused by sap-sucking insects like aphids, squash bugs, scale bugs, leafhoppers, whiteflies, mites, mealybugs, and more.
Each of these pests uses mouthparts to pierce leaf tissues and suck the sap. uses mouthparts to pierce leaf tissues and suck the sap. Signs of damage are difficult to spot at first, but a large infestation can quickly compromise the whole plant. You're most likely to see sap-sucking insects during the hottest months because plants make easier targets when already weakened from heat or drought.
Though sap-sucking insects are unlikely to kill your plant on their own, they can severely weaken it and make it more susceptible to disease. They may also spread viruses from one plant to another as they feed.
Solutions
Solutions
Sap-sucking insects can be hard to spot, as they are often small and attach to the undersides of plant leaves. If you see signs of an infestation, follow these steps to eradicate it.
  1. Hand-pick bugs and remove eggs: Inspect your plants for insects and drop any you find in a container of soapy water. Look carefully at the undersides of plant leaves and squish any egg clusters you find.
  2. Use Insecticide: Targeted spraying can take out sap-sucking insects. Small infestations can be controlled with insecticidal soap, though larger outbreaks might require a stronger spray.
  3. Introduce natural predators: Many insects, including ladybugs and praying mantises, love to feast on sap-suckers. You can purchase them at garden stores and release them near infected plants, or encourage wild ones by creating habitat space.
Prevention
Prevention
Healthy plants are less likely to suffer from sap-sucker attacks. Keep them fortified with fertilizer and the right amounts of water and sunlight. Plants that receive excess nitrogen are also more susceptible to attack, so don’t overfertilize. You should also remove weeds and tall grasses surrounding your outdoor plants so as not to create habitat space for the pests.
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Thrips
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Thrips
Thrips are 1 to 2 mm bugs with slender black or translucent-yellow bodies. They move quickly and feed on the plant's sap.
Overview
Overview
Thrips are tiny, flying, sap-sucking insects that attack the tender parts of plants, causing scarring and weakening of the plant and sometimes, if the infestation is severe enough, plant death. They have undersized double wings with a fringe on them, resembling tiny, misshapen damselflies. Thrips have a taste for many houseplants and crops, making them a serious nuisance.
They appear in early spring after the last frost has occurred. If not controlled in early spring, they will persist for most of the season. They are often attracted to weakened plants, such as those struck by drought/underwatering or malnutrition. Excessive use of nitrogen fertilizer also seems to attract them to a plant. Thrips can spread various viruses between plants, leading to more serious damage.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Thrips are so small that they may not be noticed (1 to 2 mm long), but infested plants present several key signs. Tiny pale spots appear on leaves, which may start to deform, show white or silver discoloration, or become papery in texture.
Flower petals may be damaged as well, and might display color break, which is dark or pale discoloring of petal tissue damaged before the buds had a chance to open. Fruits may show scabby or silvery scarring. Tiny black spots of the insects' excrement may be visible.
As the infestation progresses, infested terminals roll and become discolored, and leaves may drop prematurely. The plant's growth may be stunted. Secondary viral and bacterial infections, which thrips can transmit, may become evident.
The good news? Thrips rarely kill or seriously weaken shrubs and trees. Smaller plants, such as vegetable crops and herbaceous ornamentals, tend to be more severely affected.
Solutions
Solutions
Thrips can be controlled in several ways.
  • Spray plants with Pyrethrin, which is an organic pesticide derived from marigolds (follow label instructions) or Permethrin, the synthetic version of Pyrethrin.
  • Introduce beneficial insects to the garden that eat thrips, such as minute pirate bugs and green lacewings.
  • Remove heavily infested plants from the area and discard.
  • Address viral diseases that may have been transmitted by the pests.
  • For less serious cases -use a hose to spray the thrips off of the plants.
Prevention
Prevention
The best way to protect plants from thrips is to take preventative measures.
  • Avoid buying and transplanting infected plants. Check for signs of thrip damage before buying.
  • Regularly prune off dead branches and leaves.
  • Keep the garden weeded and remove debris such as dead branches and leaves.
  • Avoid unnecessary use of insecticides as they can kill predatory insects that keep thrips in check.
  • Plant a diverse variety of plants in the garden to provide habitat for predatory insects.
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Underwatering
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Underwatering
A lack of water will cause the leaves to gradually turn yellow starting at the base of the branch while the entire plant appears to wilt.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Your plant’s leaves are turning yellow due to underwatering, the oldest leaves turn yellow first. Leaves yellow from the edges towards the middle. Other signs of underwatering include the soil feeling very dry or pulling away from the edge of its pot.
Solutions
Solutions
Your plant is very thirsty and needs water promptly.
  1. You can revive your plant by giving it water. The easiest technique is to slowly pour water into your plant’s soil so that the whole surface is moistened. If you pour the water too quickly, the water will flow directly through rather than diffusing throughout the soil. If your plant’s pot does not have drainage holes, do not give your plant more than about a third of the pot’s volume of water. If your plant’s pot does have drainage holes, you can add water slowly until the soil is thoroughly moistened and the water flows freely through the pot.
  2. If you trim off yellow leaves to improve the plant’s appearance, do not remove more than a third of the plant’s leaves. It may be better to wait until leaves have died and fallen off to remove them.
Prevention
Prevention
  1. When you get a new plant, research its specific watering needs. Set reminders so that you remember to water your plants consistently. Not all plants are the same, so make sure to differentiate all of your plants in your watering schedule.
  2. You may wish to purchase a commercial soil water meter which has a long probe that you place near your plant’s roots. Be sure to check it frequently and water your plant when the soil water meter indicates that it needs watering.
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Aged yellow and dry
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Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Overview
Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.
Solutions
Solutions
If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Prevention
Prevention
Unfortunately, there is no way to prevent plants from dying of “old age.” To help prolong their life, and put off symptoms of aged yellow and dry for as long as possible, take care of them by giving them enough water, fertilizing them appropriately, and making sure they get enough sunlight.
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Distribution Map

Habitat

Waste places, derelict land near human habitations
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Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
habit
plant_info

More Info

Plant Type
Plant Type
Herb
Flower Color
Flower Color
White
Purple
Bloom Time
Bloom Time
Late spring, Summer, Early fall, Mid fall
Leaf Color
Leaf Color
Green

Name story

Lemon balm
Not only that the leaves look identical to mint, but also that the leaves release a light lemon scent similar to mint. As the leaves produce an extract that can be manufactured into essential oils for medical purposes, it is called lemon balm.

Symbolism

Longevity, Purification, Love, virtue, compassion

Usages

Garden Use
Lemon balm is an unusual garden plant that is grown mainly for its aromatic leaves. This is a fast-growing plant that loves to spread, so it's a good idea to confine it to a container. However, it also makes a great addition to beds and borders, and cottage or informal gardens. Grow lemon balm with pest-repelling partners such as asters, sunflowers, lavender, or marigolds.
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Lemon balm
Melissa officinalis
Also known as: Balm mint, Balm, Balm Leaf, Honey Plant, Dropsywort
Lemon balm (Melissa officinalis) is an herbaceous perennial famous for its essential oils and mild scent. Its oils and extracts are widely used in perfume and beauty products, as well as household cleaning products. Lemon balm can be cultivated as an ornamental plant that also attracts honeybees. It has been grown and cultivated by humans since at least the 16th century.
Water
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Questions About Lemon balm

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Common Pests & Diseases

Common issues for Lemon balm based on 10 million real cases
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles  Leaf beetles  Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Solutions: For less serious cases: Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread. To treat more serious infestations: Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Learn More more
Brown spot
Brown spot  Brown spot  Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Learn More more
Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects  Sap-sucking insects  Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects can create dense clusters of small yellow or white spots on the leaves.
Solutions: Sap-sucking insects can be hard to spot, as they are often small and attach to the undersides of plant leaves. If you see signs of an infestation, follow these steps to eradicate it. Hand-pick bugs and remove eggs: Inspect your plants for insects and drop any you find in a container of soapy water. Look carefully at the undersides of plant leaves and squish any egg clusters you find. Use Insecticide: Targeted spraying can take out sap-sucking insects. Small infestations can be controlled with insecticidal soap, though larger outbreaks might require a stronger spray. Introduce natural predators: Many insects, including ladybugs and praying mantises, love to feast on sap-suckers. You can purchase them at garden stores and release them near infected plants, or encourage wild ones by creating habitat space.
Learn More more
Thrips
Thrips  Thrips  Thrips
Thrips are 1 to 2 mm bugs with slender black or translucent-yellow bodies. They move quickly and feed on the plant's sap.
Solutions: Thrips can be controlled in several ways. Spray plants with Pyrethrin, which is an organic pesticide derived from marigolds (follow label instructions) or Permethrin, the synthetic version of Pyrethrin. Introduce beneficial insects to the garden that eat thrips, such as minute pirate bugs and green lacewings. Remove heavily infested plants from the area and discard. Address viral diseases that may have been transmitted by the pests. For less serious cases -use a hose to spray the thrips off of the plants.
Learn More more
Underwatering
Underwatering  Underwatering  Underwatering
A lack of water will cause the leaves to gradually turn yellow starting at the base of the branch while the entire plant appears to wilt.
Solutions: Your plant is very thirsty and needs water promptly. You can revive your plant by giving it water. The easiest technique is to slowly pour water into your plant’s soil so that the whole surface is moistened. If you pour the water too quickly, the water will flow directly through rather than diffusing throughout the soil. If your plant’s pot does not have drainage holes, do not give your plant more than about a third of the pot’s volume of water. If your plant’s pot does have drainage holes, you can add water slowly until the soil is thoroughly moistened and the water flows freely through the pot. If you trim off yellow leaves to improve the plant’s appearance, do not remove more than a third of the plant’s leaves. It may be better to wait until leaves have died and fallen off to remove them.
Learn More more
Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry  Aged yellow and dry  Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Learn More more
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Leaf beetles
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Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Overview
Overview
Leaf beetles range in size from 1.5 mm to 2 cm. Both adult beetles and their larvae eat the leaves of many different types of plants. There are over 35,000 different species of leaf beetles, in a variety of colors including gold, green, yellow-striped, and red striped. Some of these have been mistaken for ladybirds because of their shape and coloring. They can be oval, round, or elongated in shape. These insect pests are most active in spring and summer.
If not controlled, leaf beetles can do a lot of damage to vegetable crops and ornamental plants. They feed on the leaves, flowers, stems, roots, and fruits of different plants. They can fly, which means it's easy for them to move from one plant to another. Some species of leaf beetles only target one specific crop, while others will target many different types of plants. Although a lot of the damage that they cause is cosmetic, an infestation can weaken a plant and leave it prone to other more problematic diseases.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The first signs of a leaf beetles infestation are small visible holes in leaves. Leaves then become discolored and dark beetle droppings can be seen. As the leaves turn yellow and brown, they will drop off the plant onto the ground. Some leaves will appear skeletonized with only the veins still remaining.
Infestation begins in spring, when the adult beetles emerge from the soil and lay their eggs on the leaves of plants. When these eggs hatch, the young nymphs start munching on the leaves as they grow up. Once leaf beetles are large and mature, they'll fall to the ground and pupate in the soil over winter before starting the cycle all over again.
Leaf beetles also eat holes in fruits and vegetables. These can be seen as small round holes that sometimes have a larger brown area surrounding them.
Solutions
Solutions
For less serious cases:
  1. Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread.
To treat more serious infestations:
  1. Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions.
  2. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Prevention
Prevention
To prevent infestations of leaf beetles, follow these practices.
  1. Regularly check for beetles. To prevent large pest infestations, be proactive about frequently checking plants for pests and removing them quickly.
  2. Clear debris. Clear weeds and debris to remove areas where these beetles may overwinter and hide.
  3. Attract natural predators. Birds and other insects, such as wasps and ladybugs, are effective natural predators of leaf beetles. Encourage them to visit by including a diverse array of plants to provide habitat and food. Also, avoid applying broad-spectrum herbicides that can harm and kill beneficial insects.
  4. Plant aromatic herbs like mint, garlic, or rosemary, as these can repel leaf beetles.
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Brown spot
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
  1. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
  2. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
  3. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
  • Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
  • Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
  • Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
  • Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
  • Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
  • Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
  • Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Sap-sucking insects
plant poor
Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects can create dense clusters of small yellow or white spots on the leaves.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Your plant has developed tiny yellowish spots scattered across the leaves that look like mold or mildew. If these marks won't wipe off, they are likely caused by sap-sucking insects like aphids, squash bugs, scale bugs, leafhoppers, whiteflies, mites, mealybugs, and more.
Each of these pests uses mouthparts to pierce leaf tissues and suck the sap. uses mouthparts to pierce leaf tissues and suck the sap. Signs of damage are difficult to spot at first, but a large infestation can quickly compromise the whole plant. You're most likely to see sap-sucking insects during the hottest months because plants make easier targets when already weakened from heat or drought.
Though sap-sucking insects are unlikely to kill your plant on their own, they can severely weaken it and make it more susceptible to disease. They may also spread viruses from one plant to another as they feed.
Solutions
Solutions
Sap-sucking insects can be hard to spot, as they are often small and attach to the undersides of plant leaves. If you see signs of an infestation, follow these steps to eradicate it.
  1. Hand-pick bugs and remove eggs: Inspect your plants for insects and drop any you find in a container of soapy water. Look carefully at the undersides of plant leaves and squish any egg clusters you find.
  2. Use Insecticide: Targeted spraying can take out sap-sucking insects. Small infestations can be controlled with insecticidal soap, though larger outbreaks might require a stronger spray.
  3. Introduce natural predators: Many insects, including ladybugs and praying mantises, love to feast on sap-suckers. You can purchase them at garden stores and release them near infected plants, or encourage wild ones by creating habitat space.
Prevention
Prevention
Healthy plants are less likely to suffer from sap-sucker attacks. Keep them fortified with fertilizer and the right amounts of water and sunlight. Plants that receive excess nitrogen are also more susceptible to attack, so don’t overfertilize. You should also remove weeds and tall grasses surrounding your outdoor plants so as not to create habitat space for the pests.
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Thrips
plant poor
Thrips
Thrips are 1 to 2 mm bugs with slender black or translucent-yellow bodies. They move quickly and feed on the plant's sap.
Overview
Overview
Thrips are tiny, flying, sap-sucking insects that attack the tender parts of plants, causing scarring and weakening of the plant and sometimes, if the infestation is severe enough, plant death. They have undersized double wings with a fringe on them, resembling tiny, misshapen damselflies. Thrips have a taste for many houseplants and crops, making them a serious nuisance.
They appear in early spring after the last frost has occurred. If not controlled in early spring, they will persist for most of the season. They are often attracted to weakened plants, such as those struck by drought/underwatering or malnutrition. Excessive use of nitrogen fertilizer also seems to attract them to a plant. Thrips can spread various viruses between plants, leading to more serious damage.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Thrips are so small that they may not be noticed (1 to 2 mm long), but infested plants present several key signs. Tiny pale spots appear on leaves, which may start to deform, show white or silver discoloration, or become papery in texture.
Flower petals may be damaged as well, and might display color break, which is dark or pale discoloring of petal tissue damaged before the buds had a chance to open. Fruits may show scabby or silvery scarring. Tiny black spots of the insects' excrement may be visible.
As the infestation progresses, infested terminals roll and become discolored, and leaves may drop prematurely. The plant's growth may be stunted. Secondary viral and bacterial infections, which thrips can transmit, may become evident.
The good news? Thrips rarely kill or seriously weaken shrubs and trees. Smaller plants, such as vegetable crops and herbaceous ornamentals, tend to be more severely affected.
Solutions
Solutions
Thrips can be controlled in several ways.
  • Spray plants with Pyrethrin, which is an organic pesticide derived from marigolds (follow label instructions) or Permethrin, the synthetic version of Pyrethrin.
  • Introduce beneficial insects to the garden that eat thrips, such as minute pirate bugs and green lacewings.
  • Remove heavily infested plants from the area and discard.
  • Address viral diseases that may have been transmitted by the pests.
  • For less serious cases -use a hose to spray the thrips off of the plants.
Prevention
Prevention
The best way to protect plants from thrips is to take preventative measures.
  • Avoid buying and transplanting infected plants. Check for signs of thrip damage before buying.
  • Regularly prune off dead branches and leaves.
  • Keep the garden weeded and remove debris such as dead branches and leaves.
  • Avoid unnecessary use of insecticides as they can kill predatory insects that keep thrips in check.
  • Plant a diverse variety of plants in the garden to provide habitat for predatory insects.
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Underwatering
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Underwatering
A lack of water will cause the leaves to gradually turn yellow starting at the base of the branch while the entire plant appears to wilt.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Your plant’s leaves are turning yellow due to underwatering, the oldest leaves turn yellow first. Leaves yellow from the edges towards the middle. Other signs of underwatering include the soil feeling very dry or pulling away from the edge of its pot.
Solutions
Solutions
Your plant is very thirsty and needs water promptly.
  1. You can revive your plant by giving it water. The easiest technique is to slowly pour water into your plant’s soil so that the whole surface is moistened. If you pour the water too quickly, the water will flow directly through rather than diffusing throughout the soil. If your plant’s pot does not have drainage holes, do not give your plant more than about a third of the pot’s volume of water. If your plant’s pot does have drainage holes, you can add water slowly until the soil is thoroughly moistened and the water flows freely through the pot.
  2. If you trim off yellow leaves to improve the plant’s appearance, do not remove more than a third of the plant’s leaves. It may be better to wait until leaves have died and fallen off to remove them.
Prevention
Prevention
  1. When you get a new plant, research its specific watering needs. Set reminders so that you remember to water your plants consistently. Not all plants are the same, so make sure to differentiate all of your plants in your watering schedule.
  2. You may wish to purchase a commercial soil water meter which has a long probe that you place near your plant’s roots. Be sure to check it frequently and water your plant when the soil water meter indicates that it needs watering.
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Aged yellow and dry
plant poor
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Overview
Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.
Solutions
Solutions
If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Prevention
Prevention
Unfortunately, there is no way to prevent plants from dying of “old age.” To help prolong their life, and put off symptoms of aged yellow and dry for as long as possible, take care of them by giving them enough water, fertilizing them appropriately, and making sure they get enough sunlight.
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distribution

Distribution Map

Habitat

Waste places, derelict land near human habitations

Map

distribution map
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
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More Info

Plant Type
Plant Type
Herb
Flower Color
Flower Color
White
Purple
Bloom Time
Bloom Time
Late spring, Summer, Early fall, Mid fall
Leaf Color
Leaf Color
Green

Name story

Lemon balm
Not only that the leaves look identical to mint, but also that the leaves release a light lemon scent similar to mint. As the leaves produce an extract that can be manufactured into essential oils for medical purposes, it is called lemon balm.

Symbolism

Longevity, Purification, Love, virtue, compassion

Usages

Garden Use
Lemon balm is an unusual garden plant that is grown mainly for its aromatic leaves. This is a fast-growing plant that loves to spread, so it's a good idea to confine it to a container. However, it also makes a great addition to beds and borders, and cottage or informal gardens. Grow lemon balm with pest-repelling partners such as asters, sunflowers, lavender, or marigolds.
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Water
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Lemon Balm Watering Instructions
Lemon balm hails from regions in the Mediterranean, Western Asia, and South Europe where weather conditions involve humidity and natural soil moisture due to consistent, moderate rainfall. Such constant hydration without waterlogging frames lemon balm's watering preferences. Emulating this requires regular, light watering, enough to keep the soil moist but not drowned, signifying an innate tolerance for relatively higher moisture levels compared to dry-climate plants.
When Should I Water My Lemon Balm?
Introduction
Proper watering is crucial for the health and growth of lemon balm (Melissa officinalis). Timely watering not only facilitates robust growth but also prevents various health issues that arise from poor watering habits.
Soil Condition
One of the primary indicators for watering lemon balm is the dryness of the soil. If the top 1-2 inches of the soil are dry to the touch, it is typically a sign that the plant needs water. Overly dry soil can lead to wilting and stunted growth.
Leaf Appearance
Lemon balm's leaves can also serve as an indicator for when it needs water. If they appear wilted, droopy, or have dry edges, the plant is likely thirsty. However, take care not to confuse this with yellowing leaves, which may indicate overwatering.
Stem Firmness
If the stems of lemon balm become less firm and start to droop, this is a sign the plant might be thirsty and requires immediate watering.
Risks and Consequences
Watering lemon balm too early can lead to overwatering and root diseases. On the contrary, watering too late can lead to a stressed plant, which may get reflected in its growth and overall health. In the worst-case scenario, it could lead to plant death. Therefore, finding the right balance based on specific signs the plant gives off is important.
Caveat
Do keep in mind that watering needs can vary based on local growing conditions and the size of the plant. Regularly monitoring lemon balm and noting any changes can help you understand its specific needs.
How Should I Water My Lemon Balm?
Watering Requirements
Lemon balm, also known as Lemon balm, has specific watering needs and sensitivities that should be considered for optimal hydration.
Watering Technique
Bottom-watering is an effective method to ensure the roots of lemon balm get adequate moisture without over-saturating the surface. This technique involves placing the plant pot in a tray or saucer filled with water and allowing the roots to absorb water from the bottom up. It prevents excess moisture on the foliage and minimizes the risk of fungal diseases.
Watering Can Type
When using a watering can, it is recommended to choose one with a narrow spout to direct the water flow directly to the base of lemon balm. This helps to avoid wetting the foliage excessively and promotes targeted hydration at the root level.
Special Equipment
Using a moisture meter can be beneficial to monitor the moisture level in the soil of lemon balm. This device can help determine when it's time to water and prevent overwatering or underwatering.
Focus Areas
When watering lemon balm, focus on delivering water directly to the base of the plant, aiming to keep the foliage dry. Avoid excessive watering in the center of the plant as it can lead to crown rot.
Misting Technique
Misting can be used occasionally to increase humidity levels around lemon balm. However, it should not be the primary method of watering as it may not provide sufficient hydration to the roots.
Frequency Recommendation
The frequency of watering lemon balm may vary depending on various factors such as temperature, humidity, and soil moisture. It is essential to regularly check the soil moisture level and water when the top inch of soil feels dry.
Additional Tips
It is advisable to water lemon balm in the morning to allow adequate time for the foliage to dry before evening, reducing the risk of diseases. Additionally, ensure proper drainage to avoid waterlogged soil.
How Much Water Does Lemon Balm Really Need?
Introduction
Lemon balm is a perennial herb native to Southern Europe and the Mediterranean region. It thrives in these regions due to its thirst for consistent moisture and reliable drainage. In its natural habitat, lemon balm receives regular rainfall with good soil drainage, setting the basis for its water needs when cultivated elsewhere.
Water Quantity
Watering lemon balm varies depending on its size, pot size, and root depth. Younger lemon balm plants with shallow roots require less water, while larger lemon balm with deeper roots require more water. The size of the plant's pot also influences watering quantity, with larger pots requiring more water. Always ensure that water reaches the bottom of the pot. A simple rule of thumb is to add water until it starts draining from the bottom of the pot.
Signs of Proper Watering
Lemon balm shows signs of proper hydration when its leaves are vibrant and lush. On the contrary, drooping or yellowing leaves may indicate overwatering, while dry, brown, and curling leaf edges may suggest underwatering. Always check the soil before watering lemon balm - it should feel slightly damp, but not soggy or completely dry.
Risks of Improper Watering
Overwatering lemon balm can lead to root rot, a fatal plant disease. Severe root rot may necessitate removal of the plant to prevent spreading. Underwatering, on the other hand, can hinder growth and lead to wilting and eventually death of the plant.
Special Considerations
Lemon balm's resilience to waterlogging and short-term drought contrasts with its demand for consistent moisture and proper drainage. Make sure to provide a well-draining soil mix when potting lemon balm to prevent water from stagnating at the roots. Also, consider lemon balm's mature size when deciding on pot size: A fully grown lemon balm can reach up to 2 feet tall and needs enough space to spread its roots.
How Often Should I Water Lemon Balm?
Every week
Watering Frequency
Smart Seasonal Watering
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Just like people, each plant has its own preferences and needs. Devote time to understanding your plants so you can nurture them properly. Observe your plants attentively, learning from their growth patterns, and becoming more in tune with their needs as you grow together. Keep a watchful eye on new plants and seedlings, as they are sensitive to both overwatering and underwatering. Shower them with gentle love and attention, fostering their growth and strength. Let the rhythm of your local climate guide your watering habits, adapting your schedule to the changing weather and the needs of your plants.
What Kind of Water is Best for Lemon Balm?
Ideal Water Type for lemon balm
Rainwater and filtered water are both ideal for lemon balm due to their low concentrations of minerals and chemicals. Distilled water can also be used but avoid using tap water directly without treatment, as it may contain chlorine and other minerals that lemon balm is sensitive to.
Chlorine Sensitivity
Lemon balm prefers water that has been left to sit out, allowing chlorine to evaporate. Alternatively, using a water filtering system can also rid tap water of chlorine and other chlorine compounds.
Fluoride Sensitivity
High concentrations of fluoride in tap water can inhibit the growth of lemon balm, hence it's advisable to use fluoride-free water sources like rainwater or filtered water. If using tap water, allow it to sit out for a few hours as some fluoride evaporates over time.
Minerals and Hard Water
Lemon balm prefers softer water with lower concentrations of minerals. Hard water, which contains higher levels of minerals such as calcium and magnesium, can lead to slower growth or even harm lemon balm. Using a water softening system, if available, can benefit your lemon balm.
Water Treatments
Allowing tap water to sit out for 24 hours not only helps eliminate chlorine, but also allows some minerals and other potential toxins to settle out. Using filtered water or installing a water treatment system can further benefit lemon balm.
Water Temperature Preference
Lemon balm prefers room temperature water, as cold water may shock the roots leading to plant stress. Be sure the water is not too hot either, as it can damage the plant's delicate root system.
How Do Lemon Balm's Watering Needs Change with the Seasons?
How to Water lemon balm in Spring?
As lemon balm emerges from its dormancy period, it requires adequate watering to support new growth. Moisture is essential during this period to help the plant absorb necessary nutrients from the soil. Water lemon balm when the top 1-2 inches of soil feels dry, ensuring thorough watering until you see water draining out of the pot holes.
How to Water lemon balm in Summer?
With increased sunlight and heat, the evaporation rate is high, making lemon balm need more water than in spring. However, avoid waterlogging as it can lead to root rot. Water generously when the top layer of soil feels dry, but always check the soil before watering to prevent overwatering.
How to Water lemon balm in Autumn?
Lemon balm gradually enters its dormant phase in autumn, reducing its water needs. During this time, reduce watering gradually, but ensure the soil remains slightly moist. Water lemon balm when the top 2-3 inches of soil feel dry, but avoid waterlogging as the plant is slowing down its growth and won't absorb as much water.
How to Water lemon balm in Winter?
Throughout winter, lemon balm is in its dormancy period with minimal growth, thus requiring least amount of water. To avoid root rot from cold and damp conditions, allow the soil to dry out between watering sessions. Water sparingly only when the soil feels quite dry at depth of 3-4 inches.
What Expert Tips Can Enhance Lemon Balm Watering Routine?
Moisture Meter
Using a moisture meter can help assess lemon balm's deeper soil moisture needs and prevent over or under-watering. This plant prefers its soil to be mostly dry before the next watering, and a meter can effectively measure this.
Watering Time
Watering lemon balm early in the morning allows the water to penetrate the soil thoroughly before the high evaporation rates of mid-day. It also helps prevent fungal diseases by minimizing the plant's exposure to dampness.
Common Misconception
One common misconception is that lemon balm needs constant and heavy watering. However, this plant prefers well-draining soil and should not be constantly wet. Over-watering can lead to root rot and other issues.
Signs of Thirst
To determine if lemon balm needs watering, check the soil moisture by sticking your finger about an inch into the soil. If it feels dry or slightly damp, it's time to water. Wilting or drooping leaves can also be a sign of water stress.
Adjusting Watering in Heatwaves
During heatwaves, lemon balm's water needs may increase. Monitor the soil moisture more frequently and consider providing additional water to ensure the plant stays hydrated.
Adjusting Watering in Extended Rain
During periods of extended rain, lemon balm's soil may become waterlogged. Allow the soil to dry out between waterings and consider using a well-draining potting mix to prevent water accumulation.
Adjusting Watering for Stressed Plants
If lemon balm is showing signs of stress, such as yellowing or wilting leaves, evaluate its watering needs. Stressed plants may require more or less water than usual, so adjust accordingly after assessing the soil moisture and observing the plant's overall health.
Considering Hydroponics? How to Manage a Water-Grown Lemon Balm
Overview of Hydroponics
Hydroponics is a method of growing plants without soil, where the plant's roots are submerged in a water-based nutrient solution. It offers better control over nutrient availability and eliminates the risk of soil-borne diseases. Hydroponics is particularly relevant for lemon balm as it allows for optimal nutrient absorption and growth.
Best-suited Hydroponic System
The nutrient film technique (NFT) is the most suitable hydroponic system for growing lemon balm. It involves a shallow stream of nutrient solution flowing over the roots, providing them with a constant supply of water and nutrients. The NFT system promotes healthy root development and ensures efficient nutrient uptake.
Nutrient Solution Requirements
To ensure optimal growth, lemon balm prefers a nutrient solution with a balanced composition. The recommended concentrations for macronutrients are as follows: nitrogen (N) - 150-200 ppm, phosphorus (P) - 50 ppm, and potassium (K) - 200 ppm. Micro-nutrients like iron (Fe), manganese (Mn), and copper (Cu) should be maintained at 1 ppm. The pH level of the nutrient solution should be maintained between 5.8-6.2. It is advisable to monitor the nutrient solution regularly and change it every 1-2 weeks.
Challenges in Hydroponic Cultivation
Root rot is a common issue when growing lemon balm hydroponically. To prevent this, ensure proper aeration of the nutrient solution by using air stones or providing oxygen through other means. Nutrient imbalances can also arise, leading to deficiencies or toxicities. Regularly monitor the nutrient levels and adjust the solution as needed. Additionally, lemon balm requires a minimum of 12-14 hours of light per day to thrive, so providing adequate artificial lighting is crucial.
Monitoring Plant Health
In a hydroponic setup, closely monitor lemon balm for signs of stress such as wilting, nutrient deficiencies (yellowing or browning of leaves), or fungal growth. These symptoms may differ from those observed in soil-grown plants. Regularly check the roots for signs of rot or discoloration. Monitoring the pH and EC (electrical conductivity) levels of the nutrient solution is also important to ensure optimal plant health.
Adapting the Hydroponic Environment
As lemon balm goes through different growth stages, adjustments may be required. During the vegetative stage, ensure the nutrient solution is rich in nitrogen to promote leafy growth. As the plant enters the flowering stage, adjust the nutrient solution to have a higher phosphorus and potassium content to support flower development. Additionally, maintain a constant temperature between 20-25°C (68-77°F) and relative humidity of 40-60% to create an ideal growing environment for lemon balm.
Important Symptoms
Overwatering
Lemon balm is more susceptible to developing disease symptoms when overwatered because it prefers a soil environment with moderate humidity. Symptoms of overwatering include yellowing leaves, brown or black spots, root rot...
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Brown or black spots
Excessive watering can damage the plant's root system, making it vulnerable to fungal infections. The plant may develop dark brown to black spots that spread upwards from the lower leaves which are usually the first to be affected.
Root rot
Excess water in the soil can lead to the growth of harmful fungi and bacteria, causing the roots to rot and eventually kill the plant.
Soft or mushy stems
Excess water can cause stems to become soft and mushy, as the cells become waterlogged and lose their structural integrity.
Increased susceptibility diseases
Overwatering plants may become more susceptible and diseases as their overall health declines, weakening their natural defenses.
Solutions
1. Adjust watering frequency based on seasons and soil dryness. Wait for soil to dry before watering.2. Increase soil aeration by loosening surface and gently stirring with a wooden stick or chopstick.3. Optimize environment with good ventilation and warmth to enhance water evaporation and prevent overwatering.
Underwatering
Lemon balm is more susceptible to plant health issues when lacking watering, as it can only tolerate short periods of drought. Symptoms of dehydration include wilting, leaf curling, yellowing leaves...
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Wilting
Due to the dry soil and insufficient water absorption by the roots, the leaves of the plant will appear limp, droopy, and lose vitality.
Leaf curling
Leaves may curl inward or downward as they attempt to conserve water and minimize water loss through transpiration.
Increased susceptibility to pests and diseases
Underwatered plants may become more susceptible to pests and diseases as their overall health declines, weakening their natural defenses.
Dying plant
If underwatering continues for an extended period, the plant may ultimately die as a result of severe water stress and an inability to carry out essential functions.
Solutions
1. Thoroughly saturate soil with slow ring watering to ensure uniform and sufficient moisture for plants. 2. Increase air humidity with water trays or misting to slow leaf water evaporation. 3. Watering according to the recommended frequency.Adjust watering frequency based on seasons and soil dryness.
Watering Troubleshooting for Lemon Balm
Why are the leaves of my lemon balm turning yellow?
If the leaves of your lemon balm are turning yellow, it could be due to over-watering. Lemon balm prefers drier soil, and excessive moisture can lead to waterlogging and root rot. Reduce the frequency of watering and ensure that your plant's pot has good drainage. Wait until the top layer of soil is dry before watering again.
Why are the leaves of my lemon balm wilting and turning brown?
Brown, wilting leaves can be a sign of under-watering. Unlike many plants, lemon balm prefers consistent moisture, but not soggy soil. If the soil is too dry, water the plant thoroughly. Going forward, monitor soil moisture levels to ensure they're consistent but avoid waterlogging.
Why are the edges of my lemon balm's leaves turning brown?
Brown leaf edges can indicate that your lemon balm is getting too much direct sunlight along with under-watering. Lemon Balm prefers partial sun to shade. Adjust its position and revise your watering schedule to make sure the plant gets consistent moisture without becoming soggy.
Why is my lemon balm showing slowed growth even though I water regularly?
Regular watering is crucial for your lemon balm, but too frequent watering can lead to waterlogged soil and root damage, slowing down the plant's growth. Ensure your plant's pot has good drainage and let the top layer of the soil dry out before watering it again.
Why is my lemon balm losing leaves even though I'm watering it as suggested?
While lemon balm has watering needs, it also needs good air circulation to prevent fungal diseases. If watering needs are met but leaves are still falling, consider its placement. Ensure it's not crowded by other plants and receives enough airflow. In severe cases of leaf drop, you might need to apply a fungicide.
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Lighting
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Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
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Requirements
Full sun
Ideal
Above 6 hours sunlight
Partial sun
Tolerance
About 3-6 hours sunlight
Watch how sunlight gracefully moves through your garden, and choose spots that provide the perfect balance of light and shade for your plants, ensuring their happiness.
Essentials
Lemon balm thrives when exposed to abundant sunlight throughout the day, though it can also get by in slightly shadowed spots. Its origins in open meadows contribute to its sun-loving disposition. Overexposure may result in leaf scorching, while insufficient exposure could hinder its robust growth and vitality.
Preferred
Tolerable
Unsuitable
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Artificial lighting
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
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Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
Important Symptoms
Insufficient light
Lemon balm thrives in full sunlight and is commonly grown outdoors where it receives ample sunlight. When placed in rooms with inadequate lighting, symptoms of light deficiency may not be readily apparent.
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Small leaves
New leaves may grow smaller in size compared to the previous ones once they have matured.
Leggy or sparse growth
The spaces between leaves or stems of your lemon balm may become longer, resulting in a thin and stretched-out appearance. This can make the plant look sparse and weak, and it may easily break or lean due to its own weight.
Faster leaf drop
When plants are exposed to low light conditions, they tend to shed older leaves early to conserve resources. Within a limited time, these resources can be utilized to grow new leaves until the plant's energy reserves are depleted.
Slower or no new growth
Lemon balm enters a survival mode when light conditions are poor, which leads to a halt in leaf production. As a result, the plant's growth becomes delayed or stops altogether.
Lighter-colored new leaves
Insufficient sunlight can cause leaves to develop irregular color patterns or appear pale. This indicates a lack of chlorophyll and essential nutrients.
Solutions
1. To ensure optimal growth, gradually move plants to a sunnier location each week, until they receive at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Use a south-facing window and keep curtains open during the day for maximum sunlight exposure and nutrient accumulation.2. To provide additional light for your plant, consider using artificial light if it's large or not easily movable. Keep a desk or ceiling lamp on for at least 8 hours daily, or invest in professional plant grow lights for ample light.
Excessive light
Lemon balm thrives in full sun exposure and can tolerate intense sunlight. With their remarkable resilience, symptoms of sunburn may not be easily visible, as they rarely suffer from it.
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Chlorosis
Chlorosis is a condition where the plant's leaves lose their green color and turn yellow. This is due to the breakdown of chlorophyll from excessive sunlight, which negatively affects the plant's ability to photosynthesize.
Sunscald
Sunscald occurs when the plant's leaves or stems are damaged by intense sunlight exposure. It appears as pale, bleached, or necrotic areas on the plant tissue and can reduce the plant's overall health.
Leaf Curling
Leaf curling is a symptom where leaves curl or twist under extreme sunlight conditions. This is a defense mechanism used by the plant to reduce its surface area exposed to sunlight, minimizing water loss and damage.
Wilting
Wilting occurs when a plant loses turgor pressure and its leaves and stems begin to droop. Overexposure to sunlight can cause wilting by increasing the plant's water loss through transpiration, making it difficult for the plant to maintain adequate hydration.
Leaf Scorching
Leaf scorching is a symptom characterized by the appearance of brown, dry, and crispy edges or patches on leaves due to excessive sunlight. This can lead to a reduction in photosynthetic capacity and overall plant health.
Solutions
1. Move your plant to the optimal position where it can receive abundant sunlight but also have some shade. An east-facing window is an ideal choice as the morning sunlight is gentler. This way, your plant can enjoy ample sunlight while reducing the risk of sunburn.2. It is recommended to trim off any completely dehydrated or withered parts of the plant.
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Temperature
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Indoor
Outdoor
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Requirements
Ideal
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Just like people, each plant has its own preferences. Learn about your plants' temperature needs and create a comforting environment for them to flourish. As you care for your plants, your bond with them will deepen. Trust your intuition as you learn about their temperature needs, celebrating the journey you share. Lovingly monitor the temperature around your plants and adjust their environment as needed. A thermometer can be your ally in this heartfelt endeavor. Be patient and gentle with yourself as you explore your plants' temperature needs. Cherish your successes, learn from challenges, and nurture your garden with love, creating a haven that reflects the warmth of your care.
Essentials
Lemon balm originates from regions where the temperatures are typically 68 to 95 °F (20 to 35 ℃). This indicates a distinct preference for a warmer climate. For optimum growth, adjust temperatures to meet these preferences whenever possible.
Regional wintering strategies
Lemon balm has strong cold resistance, so special frost protection measures are usually not necessary during winter. However, if the winter temperatures are expected to drop below {Limit_growth_temperature}, it is still important to provide cold protection. This can be achieved by covering the plant with materials such as soil or straw. Before the first freeze in autumn, it is recommended to water the plant abundantly, ensuring the soil remains moist and enters a frozen state. This helps prevent drought and water scarcity for the plant during winter and early spring.
Important Symptoms
Low Temperature
Lemon balm is cold-tolerant and thrives best when the temperature is above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min}. During winter, it should be kept above {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}. When the temperature falls below {Limit_growth_temperature}, although there may not be any noticeable changes during winter, there may be a decrease in sprouting or even no sprouting during springtime.
Solutions
In spring, remove any parts that have failed to sprout.
High Temperature
During summer, Lemon balm should be kept below {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}. When the temperature exceeds {Tolerable_growing_temperature_max}, the leaves of the plant may become lighter in color, prone to curling, susceptible to sunburn, and in severe cases, the entire plant may wilt and become dry.
Solutions
Trim away the sunburned and dried-up parts. Move the plant to a location that provides shade from the midday and afternoon sun, or use a shade cloth to create shade. Water the plant in the morning and evening to keep the soil moist.
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Transplant
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How to Successfully Transplant Lemon Balm?
Lemon balm ideally flourishes when transplanted during mid-spring to early summer, as this period offers optimal growing conditions. Choose a sunny or partially shaded location with well-draining soil. If necessary, enrich the soil with organic matter prior to transplanting for better growth.
What Preparations are Needed Before Transplanting Lemon Balm?
What is the Ideal Time for Transplanting Lemon Balm?
The perfect moment to transplant lemon balm is during the delightful mid-spring to early summer season. This period ensures optimal growth and enhances the plant's delightful aroma. Give your garden a beautiful touch with lemon balm this season!
How Much Space Should You Leave Between Lemon Balm Plants?
When transplanting lemon balm, remember to space the plants about 1-2 feet (30-60 cm) apart. This will give them enough room to grow and spread.
What is the Best Soil Mix for Lemon Balm Transplanting?
For lemon balm, the ideal soil type is well-draining, with a pH of 6-7.5. Add compost and a balanced organic fertilizer to create a nutrient-rich base for your plant's growth.
Where Should You Relocate Your Lemon Balm?
Choose a location that receives full sun to partial shade for your lemon balm. They can tolerate a range of light conditions, but 4-6 hours of sunlight daily is ideal for optimal growth.
What Equipments Should You Prepare Before Transplantation Lemon Balm?
Gardening Gloves
To protect your hands while working with the soil and plant.
Shovel or Spade
To dig a hole for transplanting and remove the plant from its original location.
Watering Can or Garden Hose
To water the plant before and after transplanting.
Pruning Shears
To trim away any dead or damaged leaves and branches.
Trowel
To help position the plant in its new hole and add soil.
Garden Fork or Rake
To loosen and prepare the soil for planting.
Compost or Organic Matter
To enrich the soil and ensure proper nutrient supply to the plant.
How Do You Remove Lemon Balm from the Soil?
Step1 Site Selection

Choose a location with appropriate sunlight and space for your lemon balm plant to grow to its mature size.

Step2 Soil Preparation

Use a garden fork or rake to loosen and prepare the soil at the transplant site, removing any weeds, rocks, or debris.

Step3 Enrich Soil

Add compost or organic matter to the planting area to improve soil structure and nutrient content.

Step4 Dig Hole

Use a shovel or spade to dig a hole that is twice as wide and as deep as the lemon balm plant's root ball.

Step5 Plant Placement

Carefully position the lemon balm plant in the hole so that its root ball is level with the surrounding soil. Gently spread the roots out in the hole if they are compacted.

Step6 Fill Hole

Fill the hole with soil, pressing down gently to remove any air pockets. Firmly but carefully pack the soil around the plant to ensure it is stable.

Step7 Water

Thoroughly water the lemon balm plant to moisten the soil and settle it around the root ball.
Step-by-Step Guide for Transplanting Lemon Balm
Step1 Site Selection
Choose a location with appropriate sunlight and space for your lemon balm plant to grow to its mature size.
Step2 Soil Preparation
Use a garden fork or rake to loosen and prepare the soil at the transplant site, removing any weeds, rocks, or debris.
Step3 Enrich Soil
Add compost or organic matter to the planting area to improve soil structure and nutrient content.
Step4 Dig Hole
Use a shovel or spade to dig a hole that is twice as wide and as deep as the lemon balm plant's root ball.
Step5 Plant Placement
Carefully position the lemon balm plant in the hole so that its root ball is level with the surrounding soil. Gently spread the roots out in the hole if they are compacted.
Step6 Fill Hole
Fill the hole with soil, pressing down gently to remove any air pockets. Firmly but carefully pack the soil around the plant to ensure it is stable.
Step7 Water
Thoroughly water the lemon balm plant to moisten the soil and settle it around the root ball.
How Do You Care For Lemon Balm After Transplanting?
Watering
Keep the soil around the lemon balm consistently moist, but not soggy, for the first few weeks after transplanting to help establish strong roots.
Pruning
Use pruning shears to trim away any dead or damaged leaves and branches to encourage new, healthy growth.
Fertilization
Fertilize the lemon balm plant using a balanced, all-purpose fertilizer or compost after transplanting to help promote vigorous growth.
Pest Management
Keep an eye out for pests and diseases, and treat them promptly using appropriate organic or chemical methods.
Monitoring Growth
Regularly observe the lemon balm plant to ensure proper growth and overall health, providing appropriate care as needed.
Troubleshooting Common Issues with Lemon Balm Transplantation.
When is the best time to transplant lemon balm?
The ideal time for transplanting lemon balm is from mid-spring to early summer, when the weather is mild and stable.
How should I space lemon balm plants during transplanting?
Give lemon balm plants ample space by keeping them 1-2 feet (30-60 cm) apart from each other for proper growth.
What kind of soil is suitable for transplanting lemon balm?
Lemon balm prefers well-draining, fertile soil with a pH between 6.0 and 7.5. Add organic matter to improve soil quality.
How deep should I plant lemon balm during transplanting?
Dig a hole deep enough to accommodate the rootball, typically around 6 inches (15 cm), and bury the roots completely.
How much water does lemon balm need after transplanting?
Keep the soil consistently moist, but not soggy. Water lemon balm once a week, or more often during dry spells.
Does lemon balm require a lot of sunlight when transplanted outdoors?
Lemon balm thrives in full sun to partial shade. Choose a location where it receives at least 4-6 hours of sunlight daily.
How should I prepare the transplant site for lemon balm?
Remove any weeds, loosen the soil, and mix in compost or other organic matter prior to transplanting lemon balm.
Should I fertilize lemon balm during transplanting?
Yes, apply a balanced fertilizer at the time of transplanting, as well as every 4-6 weeks thereafter for optimal growth.
When can I safely transplant lemon balm seedlings?
Transplant lemon balm seedlings when they have 3-4 sets of true leaves and the outdoor temperatures are consistently mild.
What pests and diseases affect transplanted lemon balm?
Watch out for whiteflies, spider mites, and powdery mildew. Keep the planting area clean and encourage beneficial insects.
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These cookies are set because of our use of Google Analytics. They are used to collect information about your use of our application/website. The cookies collect specific information, such as your IP address, data related to your device and other information about your use of the application/website. Please note that the data processing is essentially carried out by Google LLC and Google may use your data collected by the cookies for own purposes, e.g. profiling and will combine it with other data such as your Google Account. For more information about how Google processes your data and Google’s approach to privacy as well as implemented safeguards for your data, please see here.
Lifespan
1 Year

Cookie Name
_pta
Source
PictureThis Analytics
Purpose
We use these cookies to collect information about how you use our site, monitor site performance, and improve our site performance, our services, and your experience.
Lifespan
1 Year
Marketing Cookies
Marketing cookies are used by advertising companies to serve ads that are relevant to your interests.
Cookie Name Source Purpose Lifespan
_fbp Facebook Pixel A conversion pixel tracking that we use for retargeting campaigns. Learn more here. 1 Year
_adj Adjust This cookie provides mobile analytics and attribution services that enable us to measure and analyze the effectiveness of marketing campaigns, certain events and actions within the Application. Learn more here. 1 Year
Cookie Name
_fbp
Source
Facebook Pixel
Purpose
A conversion pixel tracking that we use for retargeting campaigns. Learn more here.
Lifespan
1 Year

Cookie Name
_adj
Source
Adjust
Purpose
This cookie provides mobile analytics and attribution services that enable us to measure and analyze the effectiveness of marketing campaigns, certain events and actions within the Application. Learn more here.
Lifespan
1 Year
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