Your Oleander will not be too picky about how you choose to water it. As such, you can use just about any common watering tool to moisten this plant’s soil. Watering cans, hoses, and even cups will work just fine when it is time to water your Oleander. Regardless of which watering tool you use, you should typically apply the water directly to the soil. In doing so, you should ensure that you moisten all soil areas equally to give all parts of the root system the water it needs. It can help to use filtered water, as tap water can contain particles that are harmful to plants. It is also beneficial to use water that is at or slightly above room temperature, as colder or hotter water can be somewhat shocking to the Oleander. However, the Oleander usually responds well to any kind of water you give it.

For outdoor plants, especially newly planted plants or plant seedlings, they can be prone to lack of watering. Remember that you need to keep watering enough for a few months when the tree is small or just planted. This is because once the roots are established, Oleander can rely on rain most of the time. When your Oleander is planted in pots, overwatering is often more likely to.When you accidentally overwater your Oleander, you should be prepared to remedy the situation immediately. First, you should stop watering your plant right away to minimize the effect of your overwatering. After, you should consider removing your Oleander from its pot to inspect its roots. If you find that none of the roots have developed root rot, it may be permissible to return your plant to its container. If you do discover signs of root rot, then you should trim away any roots that have been affected. You may also want to apply a fungicide to prevent further damage. Lastly, you should repot your Oleander in soil that is well-draining. In the case of an underwatered Oleander, simply water this plant more frequently. Underwatering is often an easy fix. If you underwater, the plant's leaves will tend to droop and dry out and fall off, and the leaves will quickly return to fullness after sufficient watering. Please correct your watering frequency as soon as underwatering occurs.

Most plants that grow naturally outdoors can be allowed to grow normally with rainfall. If your area lacks rainfall, consider giving your plants adequate watering every 2 weeks during the spring and fall. More frequent watering is needed in summer. In winter, when growth becomes slower and plants need less water, water more sparingly. Throughout the winter, you may not give it additional watering at all. If your Oleander is young or newly planted, then you should water more frequently to help it establish, and mature and grow up to have more adaptable and drought tolerant plants. For potted plants, there are two main ways that you can determine how often to water your Oleander. The first way is to set a predetermined watering schedule. If you choose this route, you should plan to water this plant about once every week or once every other week. However, this approach may not always work as it does not consider the unique conditions of the growing environment for your Oleander . Your watering frequency can also change depending on the season. For instance, a predetermined watering schedule will likely not suffice during summer when this plant's water needs are highest. An alternative route is to set your watering frequency based on soil moisture. Typically, it is best to wait until the first two to four inches of soil, usually ⅓ to ½ depth of the pots, have dried out entirely before you give more water.

When it comes time to water your Oleander, you may be surprised to find that this plant does not always need a high volume of water. Instead, if only a few inches of soil have dried since your last watering, you can support healthy growth in the Oleander by giving it about five to ten ounces of water every time you water. You can also decide your water volume based on soil moisture. As mentioned above, you should note how many inches of soil have dried out between waterings. A surefire way to make sure your Oleander gets the moisture it needs is to supply enough water to moisten all the soil layers that became dry since the last time you watered. If more than half of the soil has become dry, you should consider giving more water than usual. In those cases, continue adding water until you see excess water draining from your pot’s drainage holes. If your Oleander is planted in an area that gets plenty of rain outdoors, it may not need additional watering. When the Oleander is young or just getting established, make sure it gets 1-2 inches of rain per week. As it continues to grow and establish, it can survive entirely on rainwater and only when the weather is hot and there is no rainfall at all for 2-3 weeks, then consider giving your Oleander a full watering to prevent them from suffering stress.

Overwatering is a far more common problem for the Oleander, and there are several signs you should look for when this occurs. Generally, an overwatered Oleander will have yellowing leaves and may even drop some leaves. Also, overwatering can cause the overall structure of your plant to shrivel and may also promote root rot. On the other hand, an underwatered Oleander will also begin to wilt. It may also display leaves that are brown or brittle to the touch. Whether you see signs of overwatering or underwatering, you should be prepared to intervene and restore the health of your Oleander.

When the Oleander is very young, such as when it is in a seedling stage, you will need to give it more water than you would if it were at a mature age. During the early stages of this plant’s life, it is important to keep the soil consistently moist to encourage root development. The same is true for any Oleander that you have transplanted to a new growing location. Also, the Oleander can develop showy flowers and fruits when you give them the correct care. If your Oleander is in a flowering or fruiting phase, you will likely need to give a bit more water than you usually would to support these plant structures.

The seasonal changes will affect how often you water your Oleander. Mainly, during the hottest summer months, you will likely need to increase how much you water this plant, especially if it grows in an area that receives ample sunlight. Strong summer sunlight can cause soil to dry out much faster than usual, meaning that you’ll need to water more frequently. By contrast, your Oleander will need much less water during the winter, as it will not be in an active growing phase. During winter, you can get by with watering once every 2 to 3 weeks or sometimes not at all. For those growing this plant indoors, you should be somewhat wary of appliances such as air conditioners, which can cause your plant to dry out more quickly, which also calls for more frequent watering.

In some cases, your Oleander may not need any supplemental watering when it grows outside and will survive on rainwater alone. However, if you live in an area of little to no rain, you should water this plant about every two weeks. If you belong to the group of people who live out of this plant's natural hardiness zone, you should grow it indoors. In an indoor setting, you should monitor your plant's soil as it can dry out more quickly when it is in a container or when it is exposed to HVAC units such as air conditioners. Those drying factors will lead you to water this plant a bit more often than if you grew it outdoors.

Before your Oleander hedge begins taking over the sidewalk, or your hanging basket Oleander start to look scraggly, it is a good idea to think about pruning. Without proper maintenance, Oleander may grow rapidly and uncontrollably, crowding out other plants. If you decide to include Oleander in your garden or landscaping plan, you should monitor its growth carefully and have a plan for pruning. Pruning is as important for Oleander as it is for any other ornamental plant species that you may choose to grow in your garden. If you prune this plant properly, you can enhance its overall health while preserving its most showy ornamental features. With that said, you cannot expect to reap those benefits if you don’t know when and how to prune this species. In fact, improper pruning can cause you to remove the season’s blooms, detracting significantly from the Oleander’s beauty. Even if you live in a cooler area or only plan to grow Oleander in pots or hanging baskets, regular pruning can encourage blooming and keep your plants healthy and vigorous.

To control growth and manage the size and shape of your plants, the time to prune varies according to the climate. In tropical zones, where there is no danger of frost, experts recommend pruning Oleander right after the summer growing season. This allows the plant to rest and begin producing new growth. In temperate zones, the recommended time to prune the plant overall is early spring, after the winter and any frost, but prior to the summer blooming season. Avoid pruning in late fall unless you are in a tropical zone as pruning can reduce cold weather hardiness. Additionally, you may want to trim the plants throughout the growing season to encourage blooming. You can also prune at any time if there is any yellowing or diseased foliage.

For your major pruning, use sharp pruning sheers that will make clean cuts to avoid damaging your plants. Make each cut at a 45° angle to encourage healthy new growth. Remove any dead or decayed stems first, cutting them off just above the damaged section or cutting them completely to the ground. Next, consider the desired height and shape of your Oleander, and then prune accordingly. To control the size of your Oleander, you can cut back as much as a third of its height and girth . Late winter or early spring is the best time to do so. Finally, you may prefer to just trim off dead or damaged portions of the plant, including deadheading spent flowers, to keep it looking its best. This can be done at any time of year. Diseased or damaged stems should be cut right at the soil line and removed completely. Blooms should be cut off just below the flower head. Oleander is generally vigorous and will not be harmed by pruning. But take care if you live in an area where freezing is likely. If you cut back the stems down to the woody section shortly before a freeze, this can allow water to travel through the stem to the roots, where it may freeze and kill your Oleander.

Oleander is generally tolerant of limited water and may become mildewy with too much water. Right after pruning is a good time to water and fertilizer though, to encourage new growth and blooming. However, care needs to be taken to avoid wounded areas when watering to avoid fungal infestation of the plant through fresh wounds. When you are ready to dispose of sections of the plant that you removed during pruning, there are two important things to keep in mind. Oleander leaves or branches found to be diseased need to be trimmed off and destroyed away from the plant. Do not use it as compost material. Wherever you dispose of the trimmings, remember that Oleander roots and spreads easily. Be careful that your trimmings do not inadvertently produce new, unwanted Oleander.

From hedges to containers, in any landscape or garden, annual pruning and regular trims can encourage Oleander produce beautiful blooms and remain healthy for many years. For your major pruning, use sharp pruning sheers that will make clean cuts to avoid damaging your plants. Make each cut at a 45° angle to encourage healthy new growth. As you are pruning your Oleander, step back occasionally to check the appearance of the plant to make sure it has the shape you want and that you are pruning it symmetrically. Try not to prune heavily at flowering time, just the dried flowers need to be pruned back as this will affect flowering. A useful approach is to remove only the longer branches and sucker shoots, leaving the blooms closer to the primary stems intact. Finally, as you prune, be on the lookout for mold or mildew. Oleander is susceptible to fungal or bacterial and you will want to address this problem, removing molded or fungal(bacterial) sections to avoid further damage to your Oleander.

For healthy growth, make sure that Oleander receives at least 3–6 hours of sun each day. This is actually a minimum requirement—most plants that can handle part sun can also thrive in full sun, but because they require less light for photosynthesis, they are more flexible than plants that require full sun or part shade.

Oleander does best with exposure to full or part sun. They will perform best with direct morning light, but in summer they need protection from the strong afternoon sun. In temperate environments, too much hot afternoon sun can burn the leaves, damaging the plant's appearance and health.

Oleander planted indoors can easily be damaged by direct sunlight when it's moved outdoors. The best way to prevent sunburns from overexposure is to move pots gradually from a shaded area to a brighter spot, gradually. But even plants that are acclimated to the summer sun can be damaged by extreme heat. In a heatwave, it is important to keep the soil consistently moist so that plants can cope with excessive levels of heat. Moving plants in containers to areas with afternoon shade or erecting a shade cloth over them can protect sensitive Oleander during extreme weather events.

While bright morning sun and some full sun exposure can be highly beneficial for Oleander, the harsh, hot midday sun of summer can be too much to handle. If planted in the ground, the summer sun will usually ramp up slowly enough through the season for Oleander to gradually adapt to its intensity. But a potted plant that has been indoors or in a protected location will often suffer injury when placed suddenly into a location where the direct summer sun reaches it in the hottest part of the day. To protect this plant from the brutal afternoon summer sun, plant or place it in an understory location where it is shaded at midday by taller trees and plants or by a building or landscape feature.

When Oleander receives too little sun, they may become pale green or display drooping, yellow leaves. While some leaf drop is normal, if leaves are dropping but no new ones are growing in to replace them, it is a sign that something is wrong. If Oleander receiving inadequate light does manage to grow, the new growth is often spindly, pale, and prone to insect infestation. Paying attention to these signs and changing the lighting conditions of the plant will make a significant difference.

Tender, new leaves are especially sensitive to sunburn. Bearing this in mind, very young Oleander and when it's in a strong growth phase, such as in late spring and early summer, will be more sensitive to harsh sun and heat than the mature one or those in a more dormant fall growth stage. Oleander fresh from a nursery is also usually not prepared for strong full sunlight and must be introduced to it slowly.

Recently transplanted Oleander will often experience a bit of shock and will need to be cared for carefully, either shaded from bright afternoon sun or placed in a protected area. On very hot days, you may see the leaves of Oleander drooping—this is usually nothing to worry about. Plants will send the water in their leaves down into their roots to protect them from burning. However, if the leaves are still drooping in the evening or the next morning, the plant needs water. Always avoid watering during the hottest times of day, as sunlight can hit wet leaves and scorch them easily. Oleander that has been underwatered will be weaker than that with consistently moist soil. This can leave it with weak roots that are unable to protect the leaves on hot, sunny summer days by diverting water away from the leaves. Care for an underwatered plant by giving it a long, deep watering and then allowing the top two inches of soil to dry out before the next watering. Even if it loses its leaves, if cared for properly it will grow new ones.

Colder temperatures can affect plants since they have the same temperature as the air around them. When they are exposed to the sun, they can start to get warm again, but this is not the case during winter. The temperature range for the Oleander is often 70~85℉(21~30℃). They might tolerate 20~30℉(-6~0℃) even 15℉(-10℃), but not for long since this can result in frost damage. Maximum temperatures should be around 70~85℉(21~30℃), but make sure that you spray them with water from time to time and give them some shade to prevent wilting.

Do some research and make sure that the temperature is right when growing Oleander. Some growers might consider decreasing the plants' thermostats during the growing season to reduce HVAC costs. However, it's vital to understand that the temperature can affect the flowering, pest management, and quality of the plants. There will be a temperature point where the Oleander will stop growing, and this can happen during the winter when some species might go into a dormant state. The base temperature becomes warmer when the season changes and the Oleander can grow faster. The species that are naturally growing in warm habitats have higher optimum temperatures when you compare them to the ones that thrive in a cooler climate. When the seeds of Oleander are exposed to cool temperatures, this can cause a decrease in uniformity and delays. You might also want to lower the temperature during flowering but not at other phases. Cooler temperatures at night will also require less water, so adjust the irrigation as needed.

Stop fertilizing the plant to avoid new growth and allow the old ones to become hardy. This way, they can endure colder temperature when it begins to drop. To keep them warm, you can build structures around the Oleander like cages or trellises. There are also options to use heat mats that can gently warm the soil since they can consistently maintain an ideal temperature range for the Oleander.

During winter, you can protect the Oleander from frost by covering it with cloths, tarps, burlaps, sheets, or plastic buckets. Make sure to keep them down so they continue to act as insulators and the wind will not blow them away. However, ensure that the plastic sheets or burlap covers should not touch any part of the fruit or foliage, or the cold temperatures can transfer to the material and cause burns. When the temperatures begin to rise during the daytime, remove the covers.

When growing the Oleander in spring, you might want to increase humidity since the air temperature tends to be cooler at this time. A dry temperature can be a stressful growing environment for various species, which can help. If summer arrives, the large cover of the greenhouse and the warm temperature will mean that there will be a higher humidity level in the air. Some signs to look for are the condensation that is often found on the walls of the greenhouse, and this can cause issues with pollination and the development of infections when the water begins to fall on the leaves. Make adjustments according to the temperature and do some spraying during the hotter days of the year.

Generally, the first cold snap can destroy the Oleander and others might go into a dormant state when the temperature is low. Some plants can get chilled when the temperatures range from 20~30℉(-6~0℃). They can freeze when the temperature begins to drop below 32℉(0℃). Those species that hide most of their parts under the soil might lose their structures above ground, but they can recover in spring. Some of the associated issues with too low temperatures are the lack of availability of resources like water, and nutrients, and those subtropical plants can suffer when the temperature reaches below 20℉(-6℃). The plants can also get damaged because of extreme heat stress when it's too high. This can reduce the transpiration rate that can affect the growth and productivity of Oleander.

You need to cover the plants at night since these can add about 5 degrees more to protect the species from frost and freezing temperatures. The cloth rows can work well as blankets and ensure that there are no openings where the heat could escape. When using the covers, avoid the plastic from touching the foliage because this can cause the Oleander to freeze. Remember to keep the covers during the day and stop using heat pads during the summer. It will always be worth the effort to protect the cold-intolerant plants from freezing temperatures to help them survive.

If you prefer not to use a heat pad, bring the Oleander inside, especially if it's freezing outdoors. During spring, consider the ones you need to bring indoors and plant them in moveable pots and containers.

Most often, the ones caring for the Oleander will grow them in greenhouses. This is because they can provide adequate temperature in these areas that won't affect the photosynthesis process of a specific process. Some install the proper HVAC systems to control the temperatures of Oleander. This can handle many species' cooling and heating needs, especially during the summer and winter. They generally place the cooling or heating pad under the plants rather than above to achieve their desired temperatures. If outdoors, you can protect the Oleander from frost by covering it with cloths, tarps, burlaps, sheets, or plastic buckets.

Heat mats are often left on Oleander to set the temperatures at a more consistent level. When the weather becomes warmer during the day, you can remove them, especially if the species are exposed to the sun. Put the pads away once the plants are established and when they start growing flowers and fruits.

You need to fertilize a Oleander for a few important reasons. The most obvious of these reasons is that fertilizer will help your Oleander produce lovely blooms. Fertilizing in early spring is one of the best ways to ensure that your Oleander has excellent flowers during that season. Fertilizer also gives your Oleander plenty of energy that it can store in the ground during its dormant growth phases. Giving your Oleander some extra nutrients during the fall planting process or during the late spring will help your Oleander hold more energy to use once active growth resumes.

Timing is crucial when it comes to fertilizing Oleander. If you use fertilizer too early while the Oleander is still dormant at this time. This fertilizer cannot be used effectively and will be washed away by rainwater, causing waste and pollution. The first application of fertilizer should be applied in the early spring. Continue fertilizing once a month until early summer.

Avoid giving Oleander a fertilizer with too much nitrogen, since this can lead to development of plenty of leaves but not many blooms. Look for fertilizer with a lower level of nitrogen compared to other nutrients. Do not fertilize after the early autumn, which can cause too much growth just before winter. Also, Oleander should not be fertilized during hot and dry times of year, since dry soil does not deliver fertilizer as effectively as moist soil. Fertilizing at this time can also stimulate growth which in turn needs more water that may not be available. It is best to keep fertilizer for earlier in the season when temperatures are cooler. Finally, remember that Oleander can absorb fertilizer that has been applied to nearby plants or lawns, so be cautious about inadvertently giving tree/shurb a double-dose of fertilizer.

The ideal fertilizer for a Oleander is one that has a relatively balanced mix of the three main plant nutrients, with slightly higher amounts of phosphorus. Alternatively, some gardeners choose to improve their Oleander 's soil by adding organic materials such as compost, worm castings, and manure. Some experienced gardeners will supplement 1-2 times with water-soluble fertilizers containing phosphorus when the flower buds start to appear. This will help the flowers develop better and allow them to grow larger and bloom longer. Fertilizers can come in many forms, and most of these forms will work well for your Oleander. However, some of the best fertilizers for Oleander come in either a liquid or a powdered form. Regardless of which you use, you should ensure that you dilute your fertilizer and apply it while watering your Oleander.

Always follow directions for the specific type of fertilizer and do research on how to use it for the Oleander you are growing. It is important not to over-fertilize your Oleander, so determining the correct amount to use is crucial. The usual rule of thumb is to use the age of the tree (if known) or the diameter of the trunk to understand how much fertilizer should be used. Estimate a one-tenth of a pound of fertilizer per year or per inch of trunk, with a maximum of one pound. Granular fertilizers and organic fertilizers such as blood meal are applied by sprinkling the substance around the base of the tree all the way to the drip line (the space below the farthest-reaching branches) but do not let fertilizer come in contact with the trunk. Over time, the granules break down and filter into the soil to be absorbed into the roots. After fertilizing, spread an inch-deep layer of compost around the base of the tree and water thoroughly.

It is far better to under-fertilize than over-fertilize, since you can always add more but you cannot easily take away excess fertilizer. Over-fertilizing your Oleander may cause brown leaf tips and edges, yellowing, wilting leaves, and possibly a visible crust of fertilizer salts on the surface of the soil around the tree. This condition is called fertilizer burn and results from too many accumulated salts in the plant’s cells. If excess nitrogen is the issue, the Oleander will produce a lot of leaves but won’t grow much flowers since nitrogen supports foliage growth. If you have overfertilized, you could try removing the top layer of soil under the Oleander to remove the most concentrated area of fertilizer. Then flush the area by watering heavily to try to get rid of fertilizer around the roots.