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Add to My Garden Cherry plum
Prunus cerasifera
Also known as: Purple leaf plum
Cherry plum ( Prunus cerasifera ) is a deciduous small tree or a shrub native to Southern Europe and Western Asia. It is one of the most common wild fruits of its native region, producing numerous, rounded, yellow, red, or burgundy-colored, sweet, juicy fruit in summer and autumn. Cherry plum is also used as an ornamental tree, and as rootstock for other Prunus species.
Every 1-2 weeks
Water
Full sun
Sunlight
Care Guide for Cherry plum
Established, mature Cherry plum trees rarely need to be watered as they get their required moisture through the rainfall. The only exception is when you're growing Cherry plum in extremely arid climates. During the first years of growth, while the plants haven't developed a strong root system, they will need a regular supply of water.
Cherry plum usually doesn't require any fertilizer. It will require feeding only if the soil lacks important nutrients such as nitrogen, potassium, or phosphorus. Test your soil and if the test shows nutrient deficiencies, apply an adequate fertilizer to supplement the missing nutrients.
Trim the dead, diseased, overgrown branches in winter.
Sand, Clay, Loam, Chalky, Acidic, Neutral, Alkaline
Full sun, Partial sun
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Cherry plum
Water
Every 1-2 weeks
Sunlight
Full sun
Hardiness Zones
5 to 9
Planting Time
Early spring, Late fall, Winter
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Cherry plum
Water
Every 1-2 weeks
Sunlight
Full sun
Hardiness Zones
5 to 9
Planting Time
Early spring, Late fall, Winter
Download
Cherry plum
Water
Every 1-2 weeks
Sunlight
Full sun
Hardiness Zones
5 to 9
Planting Time
Early spring, Late fall, Winter
Download
Questions About Cherry plum
Watering 
Pruning 
Sunlight 
Temperature 
Fertilizing What's the best method to water my Cherry plum?
You might want to put a garden hose at the plant base to ensure that you're promoting excellent root development. Avoid directly spraying the leaves, and know that the leaves will require more watering if they are outdoors and facing direct sunlight. You can also use bubblers that you can put on to each plant to moisten the roots. Also, use soaker hoses that can cover the entire garden or bed when adding or removing plants to push the roots deeply. Drain any excess water and wait for the soil to dry before watering. Water at ground level to prevent diseases. On a sunny day, you might want to spray the entire bush with water. Whether potted or in-ground, please remember Cherry plum prefers deep watering over light sprinkling.
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What should I do if I water Cherry plum too much/too little?
An overwatered Cherry plum can start to have leaves that turn yellow, drop off and wilt. The plant can also look dull and unhealthy, with signs of mushy stems. When they are beginning to show these signs, it's best to adjust your schedule whenever possible.
The wilting can also be a sign of under watering as well. You might see that the leaves begin to turn crispy and dry while the overwatered ones will have soft wilted leaves. Check the soil when it is dry and watering is not enough, give it a full watering in time. Enough water will make the Cherry plum recover again, but the plant will still appear dry and yellow leaves after a few days due to the damaged root system. Once it return to normal, the leave yellowing will stop .
Always check the moisture levels at the pot when you have the Cherry plum indoors. Avoid overwatering indoors and see if there are signs of black spots. If these are present, let the soil dry in the pot by giving it a few days of rest from watering.
Overwatering can lead to root rot being present in your plant. If this is the case, you might want to transfer them into a different pot, especially if you see discolored and slimy roots. Always prevent root rot as much as possible, and don't let the soil become too soggy.
You should dig a little deeper when you plant your Cherry plum outdoors. When you check with your fingers and notice that the soil is too dry, it could mean underwatering. Adequate watering is required to help the plant recover.
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How often should I water my Cherry plum?
The Cherry plum likes deep and infrequent watering. You would want to soak them in a gallon of water each time, especially when they are planted in pots. The water storage of flower pots is limited and the soil will dry out faster. Watering is required every 3 to 5 days when living in a cold region. Water it early in the morning when the soil is dry, outdoors or indoors. You can also determine if watering is needed by checking the soil inside. When the top 2-3 inches of soil is dry, it is time to give the plant a full watering. During hot days, you may need to check the moisture daily, as the heat can quickly dry out the soil in the pot.
Irrigation of the soil is also required if you have a garden. When you live in a hot climate, you might want to water once a week. Only water when you notice that about 2 to 3 inches of soil become too dry outdoors or indoors. Consider the amount of rainwater on the plant and ensure not to add to it to prevent root rot.You may not need additional watering of the plants if there is a lot of rainfall.Cherry plum generally grows during spring and fall. When they are outdoors, you need to add mulch about 3 to 4 inches deep to conserve more water.
You need to water the plants more frequently in sandy soil because this type tends to drain faster. However, with the clay one, you need to water this less frequently where you could go for 2-3 days to dry the plant and not develop any root rot. You could mark the date on the calendar whenever you water and when you notice that the leaves are starting to droop. This can mean that you might be a day late.
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How much water do I need to give my Cherry plum?
The Cherry plum generally needs about a gallon of water each schedule,With the potted plants, you might want to water them deeply until you see that the water is dripping at the bottom of the pot. Then, wait for the soil to dry before watering them again. You can use a water calculator or a moisture meter to determine the amount you've given to your plant in a week. Provide plenty of water, especially in the flowering period, but let the moisture evaporate afterwards to prevent root rot.
If Cherry plum is planted outdoor with adequate rainfall, it may not need additional watering. When Cherry plum is young or newly planted, make sure it gets 1-2 inches of rain per week. As Cherry plum continues to grow, it can survive entirely on rainfall. Only when the weather is too hot, or when there is no rainfall at all for 2-3 weeks, then consider giving Cherry plum a full watering during the cooler moment of the day to prevent the plant from suffering from high heat damage. Additional watering will be required during persistent dry spells.
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Should I adjust the watering frequency for my Cherry plum according to different seasons or climates?
The Cherry plum needs outdoors come from rain, with only persistent dry weather requiring watering. Throughout the spring and fall growing seasons, the soil needs to be kept moist but not soggy, and alternating dry and moist soil conditions will allow the Cherry plum to grow well. Throughout the summer, hot weather can cause water to evaporate too quickly, and if there is a lack of rainfall, you will need to water more frequently and extra to keep it moist.
Usually, the Cherry plum will need less water during the winter. Since the Cherry plum will drop their leaves and go dormant, you can put them into a well-draining but moisture-retentive soil mixture like the terracotta to help the water evaporate quicker. Once your Cherry plum growing outdoors begins to leaf out and go dormant, you can skip watering altogether and in most cases Cherry plum can rely on the fall and winter rains to survive the entire dormant period.
After the spring, you can cultivate your Cherry plum and encourage it to grow and bloom when the temperature becomes warmer.This plant is not generally a fan of ponding or drought when flowering. You must ensure that the drainage is good at all times, especially during the winter.
When the plant is in a pot, the plant has limited root growth. Keep them well-watered, especially if they are planted in pots during summer. They don't like cold and wet roots, so provide adequate drainage, especially if they are still growing.
It's always best to water your Cherry plum’s diligently. Get the entire root system into a deep soak at least once or twice a week, depending on the weather. It's best to avoid shallow sprinkles that reach the leaves since they generally encourage the growth of fungi and don't reach deep into the roots. Don't allow the Cherry plum’s to dry out completely in the fall or winter, even if they are already dormancy.
Don't drown the plants because they generally don't like sitting in water for too long. They can die during winter if the soil does not drain well. Also, apply mulch whenever possible to reduce stress, conserve water, and encourage healthy blooms.
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What should I be careful with when I water my Cherry plum in different seasons, climates, or during different growing periods?
If planting in the ground, Cherry plum mostly relies on rain. However, if there is no rainfall for 2-3 weeks, you may need to give proper consideration to giving the plants a deep watering. If watering Cherry plum in summer, you should try to do it in the morning. A large temperature difference between the water temperature and the root system can stress the roots. You need to avoid watering the bushes when it's too hot outside. Start mulching them during the spring when the ground is not too cold.
The age of the plants matter. Lack of water is one of the most common reasons the newly planted ones fail to grow. After they are established, you need to ease off the watering schedule.
Reduce watering them during the fall and winter, especially if they have a water-retaining material in the soil. The dry winds in winter can dry them out, and the newly planted ones can be at risk of drought during windy winter, summer, and fall. Windy seasons mean that there's more watering required. The ones planted in the pot tend to dry out faster, so they need more watering. Once you see that they bloom less, the leaves begin to dry up.
Potted plants are relatively complex to water and fluctuate in frequency. Always be careful that the pot-planted plant don't sit in the water. Avoid putting them in containers with saucers, bowls, and trays. Too much watering in the fall can make the foliage look mottled or yellowish. It's always a good idea to prevent overwatering them regardless of the current climate or season that you might have. During the months when Cherry plum begins to flower, you might want to increase the watering frequency but give it a rest once they are fully grown.
Give them an adequate amount of water once every 3 to 5 days but don't give them regular schedules. Make sure the soil is dry by sticking your finger in the pot, or use a moisture meter if you're unsure if it's the right time. Too much root rot can cause them to die, so be careful not to overwater or underwater regardless of the climate or season you have in your area.
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Why is watering my Cherry plum important?
Watering the Cherry plum helps transport the needed nutrients from the soil to the rest of the plant. The moisture will keep this species healthy if you know how much water to give. The watering requirements will depend on the weather in your area and the plant's soil.
The Cherry plum thrives on moist soil, but they can't generally tolerate waterlogging. Ensure to provide enough mulch when planted on the ground and never fall into the trap of watering too little. They enjoy a full can of watering where the water should be moist at the base when they are planted in a pot to get the best blooms.
If they are grown as foliage, you need to water them up to a depth of 10 to 20 inches so they will continue to grow. If it's raining, refrain from watering and let them get the nutrients they need from the rainwater.
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Common Pests & Diseases
Common issues for Cherry plum based on 10 million real cases
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Solutions: For less serious cases: Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread. To treat more serious infestations: Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Shot hole disease
Bacterial perforation disease creates brown spots on the leaves which eventually dry up and fall away, leaving perforations in the leaf surface.
Solutions: In the case of mild disease symptoms: Remove diseased leaves immediately. Also remove any foliage on the ground near the plants, including leaves without the disease. Take care not to touch healthy foliage during removal to avoid spreading. It is best to remove leaves in dry, cool weather. When holes and spots are numerous, and leaves start to drop, take these actions immediately. Remove diseased leaves right away. Just like in mild cases, remove all foliage on the ground near the plant. Avoid touching non-diseased foliage, and only remove leaves when they are dry. Apply fungicide and bactericide. Apply a copper-based fungicide. Spray young leaves about once every week. It's best to apply these products in spring when damage is beginning. After mid-summer, they will have little benefit.
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with. Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock. In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
Underwatering
A lack of water will cause the leaves to gradually turn yellow starting at the base of the branch while the entire plant appears to wilt.
Solutions: Your plant is very thirsty and needs water promptly. You can revive your plant by giving it water. The easiest technique is to slowly pour water into your plant’s soil so that the whole surface is moistened. If you pour the water too quickly, the water will flow directly through rather than diffusing throughout the soil. If your plant’s pot does not have drainage holes, do not give your plant more than about a third of the pot’s volume of water. If your plant’s pot does have drainage holes, you can add water slowly until the soil is thoroughly moistened and the water flows freely through the pot. If you trim off yellow leaves to improve the plant’s appearance, do not remove more than a third of the plant’s leaves. It may be better to wait until leaves have died and fallen off to remove them.
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
- Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
- Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
- May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
- Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
- Leaf margins may turn yellow.
- Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
- Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
- The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
- Partial or complete premature defoliation
- Reduced growth
- Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
- Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
- Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
- Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
- Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
- Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
- Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
- Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
- Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
- Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
- Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Overview
Leaf beetles range in size from 1.5 mm to 2 cm. Both adult beetles and their larvae eat the leaves of many different types of plants. There are over 35,000 different species of leaf beetles, in a variety of colors including gold, green, yellow-striped, and red striped. Some of these have been mistaken for ladybirds because of their shape and coloring. They can be oval, round, or elongated in shape. These insect pests are most active in spring and summer.
If not controlled, leaf beetles can do a lot of damage to vegetable crops and ornamental plants. They feed on the leaves, flowers, stems, roots, and fruits of different plants. They can fly, which means it's easy for them to move from one plant to another. Some species of leaf beetles only target one specific crop, while others will target many different types of plants. Although a lot of the damage that they cause is cosmetic, an infestation can weaken a plant and leave it prone to other more problematic diseases.
Symptom Analysis
The first signs of a leaf beetles infestation are small visible holes in leaves. Leaves then become discolored and dark beetle droppings can be seen. As the leaves turn yellow and brown, they will drop off the plant onto the ground. Some leaves will appear skeletonized with only the veins still remaining.
Infestation begins in spring, when the adult beetles emerge from the soil and lay their eggs on the leaves of plants. When these eggs hatch, the young nymphs start munching on the leaves as they grow up. Once leaf beetles are large and mature, they'll fall to the ground and pupate in the soil over winter before starting the cycle all over again.
Leaf beetles also eat holes in fruits and vegetables. These can be seen as small round holes that sometimes have a larger brown area surrounding them.
Solutions
For less serious cases:
- Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread.
To treat more serious infestations:
- Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions.
- Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Prevention
To prevent infestations of leaf beetles, follow these practices.
- Regularly check for beetles. To prevent large pest infestations, be proactive about frequently checking plants for pests and removing them quickly.
- Clear debris. Clear weeds and debris to remove areas where these beetles may overwinter and hide.
- Attract natural predators. Birds and other insects, such as wasps and ladybugs, are effective natural predators of leaf beetles. Encourage them to visit by including a diverse array of plants to provide habitat and food. Also, avoid applying broad-spectrum herbicides that can harm and kill beneficial insects.
- Plant aromatic herbs like mint, garlic, or rosemary, as these can repel leaf beetles.
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Shot hole disease
Bacterial perforation disease creates brown spots on the leaves which eventually dry up and fall away, leaving perforations in the leaf surface.
Overview
Shot hole disease (coryneum blight) most commonly affects mature trees, particularly fruit trees. The fungus can infect the buds, fruit, and leaves of the tree. It causes spots on the leaves that eventually die and drop out. This makes the leaves look tattered and affects the overall health of the tree. If the fruit is affected, it will result in cracks in the skin and generally make the fruit inedible.
The disease is very difficult to eliminate entirely but further infection can be prevented with good cultural practices and by removing diseased parts of the tree. Some of the more common fruit trees affected by this disease include plums, peaches, cherries, nectarines, apricot, and almonds.
Symptom Analysis
Small red spots appear on the leaves. These spots then become larger and turn purple with a white center. Finally, the spots drop out of the leaves altogether, leaving small round holes. These almost look like gunshot holes, hence the name of the disease.
As the disease progresses, more holes will form in the leaves with some joining together to make larger holes.
As the infection spreads to developing fruit, purple-red spots appear on the outer skin. Eventually, these spots will cause the skin to crack and some of the juice will ooze out.
Disease Cause
Shot hole disease is a fungal disease (Wilsonomyces**carpophilus) that primarily targets mature trees. The fungal spores are carried onto the tree through water-splashing and wind.
The disease thrives in wet conditions when there has been excessive rainfall. New growth in spring is particularly susceptible to this disease.
The fungal spores overwinter inside buds on the tree and also lesions on twigs.
Solutions
In the case of mild disease symptoms:
- Remove diseased leaves immediately. Also remove any foliage on the ground near the plants, including leaves without the disease. Take care not to touch healthy foliage during removal to avoid spreading. It is best to remove leaves in dry, cool weather.
When holes and spots are numerous, and leaves start to drop, take these actions immediately.
- Remove diseased leaves right away. Just like in mild cases, remove all foliage on the ground near the plant. Avoid touching non-diseased foliage, and only remove leaves when they are dry.
- Apply fungicide and bactericide. Apply a copper-based fungicide. Spray young leaves about once every week. It's best to apply these products in spring when damage is beginning. After mid-summer, they will have little benefit.
Prevention
Here are the best ways to prevent shot hole disease:
- Use drip irrigation. To stop the fungal spores from splashing onto the tree, use drip irrigation that directs water straight to the roots.
- Inspect trees when the leaves have dropped. Remove any dead or diseased branches that may have fungal spores in them. A good pruning will also open up the tree and encourage more airflow.
- Rake and keep dropped foliage clear. Raking leaves from around trees and shrubs regularly is one of the best ways to prevent shot hole disease and keep it at bay.
- Remove lower branches. This makes it harder for the fungal spores to be splashed up onto the vulnerable parts of the tree, and also increases airflow.
- Remove old and very diseased trees. Though shot hole disease can't be completely prevented, this can help remove the biggest disease vector. It can also create more space and help air circulation, which further prevents spread.
- Apply preventative chemical control. To prevent the disease from occurring in the spring, apply a fungicide in late winter just before bud swell.
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Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.
Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.
Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.
Solutions
If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Prevention
Unfortunately, there is no way to prevent plants from dying of “old age.” To help prolong their life, and put off symptoms of aged yellow and dry for as long as possible, take care of them by giving them enough water, fertilizing them appropriately, and making sure they get enough sunlight.
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Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Overview
Underwatering plants is one of the quickest ways to kill them. This is something that most gardeners are well aware of. Unfortunately, knowing exactly how much water a plant needs can be tricky, especially considering that underwatering and overwatering present similar symptoms in plants.
Therefore, it’s important to be vigilant and attentive to each plants’ individual needs.
Symptom Analysis
As mentioned earlier, overwatering and underwatering present similar symptoms in plants. These symptoms include poor growth, wilted leaves, defoliation, and brown leaf tips or margins. Ultimately, both underwatering and overwatering can lead to the death of a plant.
The easiest way to determine whether a plant has too much water or too little is to look at the leaves. If underwatering is the culprit, the leaves will look brown and crunchy, while if it’s overwatering, they will appear yellow or a pale green in color.
When this issue first begins, there may be no noticeable symptoms at all, particularly in hardy or drought-tolerant plants. However, they will begin to wilt once they start suffering from a lack of water. The edges of the plant’s leaves will become brown or curled. Soil pulling away from the edges of the planter is a telltale sign, or a crispy, brittle stem.
Prolonged underwatering can cause a plant’s growth to become stunted. The leaves might drop and the plant can be more susceptible to pest infestations, too.
Disease Cause
Underwatering is caused by, quite simply, not watering plants often or deeply enough. There is a heightened risk of underwatering if any of these situations apply:
- Extreme heat and dry weather (when growing outdoors)
- Grow lights or indoor lighting that is too bright or intense for the type of plant
- Using fast-draining growing media such as sand
Solutions
The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with.
Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock.
In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
Prevention
Always check the soil before watering. If the top inch of soil feels moist, though not wet, the watering is perfect. If it’s dry, water it immediately. If it feels soggy, you avoid watering until it dries out a bit more.
Also, make sure the lighting is sufficient for the species. Plants grow faster and need more water when there is intense light or lots of heat. Being aware of these conditions and modifying them, if possible, is a good way to prevent underwatering. Many container plants are potted in soil mixtures mean to be well-draining. Adding materials that retain moisture, like compost or peat moss, can also prevent these symptoms.
Other tips to prevent underwatering include:
- Choose pots with adequately-sized drainage holes
- Avoid warm temperatures
- Use large pots with additional soil (these take longer to dry out)
- Avoid terracotta pots, which lose water quickly
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Underwatering
A lack of water will cause the leaves to gradually turn yellow starting at the base of the branch while the entire plant appears to wilt.
Symptom Analysis
Your plant’s leaves are turning yellow due to underwatering, the oldest leaves turn yellow first. Leaves yellow from the edges towards the middle. Other signs of underwatering include the soil feeling very dry or pulling away from the edge of its pot.
Solutions
Your plant is very thirsty and needs water promptly.
- You can revive your plant by giving it water. The easiest technique is to slowly pour water into your plant’s soil so that the whole surface is moistened. If you pour the water too quickly, the water will flow directly through rather than diffusing throughout the soil. If your plant’s pot does not have drainage holes, do not give your plant more than about a third of the pot’s volume of water. If your plant’s pot does have drainage holes, you can add water slowly until the soil is thoroughly moistened and the water flows freely through the pot.
- If you trim off yellow leaves to improve the plant’s appearance, do not remove more than a third of the plant’s leaves. It may be better to wait until leaves have died and fallen off to remove them.
Prevention
- When you get a new plant, research its specific watering needs. Set reminders so that you remember to water your plants consistently. Not all plants are the same, so make sure to differentiate all of your plants in your watering schedule.
- You may wish to purchase a commercial soil water meter which has a long probe that you place near your plant’s roots. Be sure to check it frequently and water your plant when the soil water meter indicates that it needs watering.
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Distribution Map
Habitat
Roadsides, stream banks, canyons, chaparral
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
More Info
Plant Type
Shrub, Tree
Flower Color
White
Pink
Bloom Time
Spring
Leaf Color
Green
Red
Yellow
Purple
Name story
Cherry plum
They are one of the first batches of trees to blossom in the spring, and they blossom earlier than cherry blossoms. However, they are always mistaken for cherry blossoms because both of their flowers look similar to each other. Hence, they are called cherry plum.
Purple leaf plum
Although it looks similar to the cherry blossom tree, it is actually easy to distinguish Prunus cerasifera from the cherry blossom tree because of its purple leaves. Furthermore, it can maintain this unique purple color feature from spring to autumn. As it is also a deciduous tree, it is called the purple leaf plum.
Symbolism
Happiness, positive energy, rebirth, the coming of spring
Usages
Garden Use
As one of the earliest flowering trees in Europe, cherry plum has found its way into gardens across the northern hemisphere (though it is mildly invasive in parts of Asia). Growers of the cherry plum prize its variety of foliage and flower colors, as well as the early bloom time. These trees are frequently used as specimen pieces, tree borders, and even occasionally as "living sculptures." It works well in cottage, city, and Japanese gardens, particularly when planted alongside herbs like mint, rosemary, and sage .
Scientific Classification
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Though its name suggests otherwise, the lucky bamboo is not actually a bamboo plant. It’s a type of tropical water lily that is thought to bring good luck and prosperity to the home or office. This plant is commonly used in Feng Shui, and the correct placement impacts the flow of positive energy.
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African milk tree (Euphorbia trigona) is a perennial species from Central Africa. African milk tree grows best in sandy soils and can root easily from cuttings. This species produces latex that can be a skin irritant. It is often planted as a houseplant and is used as a ritual plant in Gabon.
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Black walnut
Black walnut (Juglans nigra) is a large riparian zone tree native to North America. It is cultivated for nutritious walnuts and the high-quality dark timber. Juglans nigra produces juglone, a compound that inhibits the growth of other plants in the walnut tree’s proximity, so it may be undesirable near lawns and gardens. It is susceptible to Thousand cankers disease.
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Dog fennel
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Bittersweet
The species known as bittersweet is a semi-woody vine found in forests, marshes, shrublands, and hedgerows. All parts of the plant contain alkaloids (especially the bright red berries), which are extremely poisonous to humans and livestock if ingested. In spite of its toxicity, bittersweet was hung as a talisman in the past to ward off witchcraft.
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Add to My Garden Cherry plum
Prunus cerasifera
Also known as: Purple leaf plum
Every 1-2 weeks
Water
Full sun
Sunlight
Care Guide for Cherry plum
Water
Established, mature Cherry plum trees rarely need to be watered as they get their required moisture through the rainfall. The only exception is when you're growing Cherry plum in extremely arid climates. During the first years of growth, while the plants haven't developed a strong root system, they will need a regular supply of water.
Fertilization
Cherry plum usually doesn't require any fertilizer. It will require feeding only if the soil lacks important nutrients such as nitrogen, potassium, or phosphorus. Test your soil and if the test shows nutrient deficiencies, apply an adequate fertilizer to supplement the missing nutrients.
Pruning
Trim the dead, diseased, overgrown branches in winter.
Soil
Sand, Clay, Loam, Chalky, Acidic, Neutral, Alkaline
Sunlight
Full sun, Partial sun
Tips, advice, and instructions for over 13,000 species that you will find nowhere else
Cherry plum
Prunus cerasifera
Water
Every 1-2 weeks
Sunlight
Full sun
Hardiness Zones
5 to 9
Planting Time
Early spring, Late fall, Winter
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Questions About Cherry plum
Watering Pruning Sunlight Temperature Fertilizing What's the best method to water my Cherry plum?
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Common Pests & Diseases
Common issues for Cherry plum based on 10 million real cases
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Learn More ![more]()
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Solutions: For less serious cases: Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread. To treat more serious infestations: Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Learn More ![more]()
Shot hole disease
Bacterial perforation disease creates brown spots on the leaves which eventually dry up and fall away, leaving perforations in the leaf surface.
Solutions: In the case of mild disease symptoms: Remove diseased leaves immediately. Also remove any foliage on the ground near the plants, including leaves without the disease. Take care not to touch healthy foliage during removal to avoid spreading. It is best to remove leaves in dry, cool weather. When holes and spots are numerous, and leaves start to drop, take these actions immediately. Remove diseased leaves right away. Just like in mild cases, remove all foliage on the ground near the plant. Avoid touching non-diseased foliage, and only remove leaves when they are dry. Apply fungicide and bactericide. Apply a copper-based fungicide. Spray young leaves about once every week. It's best to apply these products in spring when damage is beginning. After mid-summer, they will have little benefit.
Learn More ![more]()
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Learn More ![more]()
Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with. Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock. In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
Learn More ![more]()
Underwatering
A lack of water will cause the leaves to gradually turn yellow starting at the base of the branch while the entire plant appears to wilt.
Solutions: Your plant is very thirsty and needs water promptly. You can revive your plant by giving it water. The easiest technique is to slowly pour water into your plant’s soil so that the whole surface is moistened. If you pour the water too quickly, the water will flow directly through rather than diffusing throughout the soil. If your plant’s pot does not have drainage holes, do not give your plant more than about a third of the pot’s volume of water. If your plant’s pot does have drainage holes, you can add water slowly until the soil is thoroughly moistened and the water flows freely through the pot. If you trim off yellow leaves to improve the plant’s appearance, do not remove more than a third of the plant’s leaves. It may be better to wait until leaves have died and fallen off to remove them.
Learn More ![more]()
Keep your leafy friends healthy and happy.
Diagnose your plant, and learn how to prevent and treat plant diseases.
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
- Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
- Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
- May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
- Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
- Leaf margins may turn yellow.
- Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
- Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
- The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
- Partial or complete premature defoliation
- Reduced growth
- Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
- Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
- Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
- Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
- Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
- Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
- Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
- Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
- Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
- Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
- Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Overview
Leaf beetles range in size from 1.5 mm to 2 cm. Both adult beetles and their larvae eat the leaves of many different types of plants. There are over 35,000 different species of leaf beetles, in a variety of colors including gold, green, yellow-striped, and red striped. Some of these have been mistaken for ladybirds because of their shape and coloring. They can be oval, round, or elongated in shape. These insect pests are most active in spring and summer.
If not controlled, leaf beetles can do a lot of damage to vegetable crops and ornamental plants. They feed on the leaves, flowers, stems, roots, and fruits of different plants. They can fly, which means it's easy for them to move from one plant to another. Some species of leaf beetles only target one specific crop, while others will target many different types of plants. Although a lot of the damage that they cause is cosmetic, an infestation can weaken a plant and leave it prone to other more problematic diseases.
Symptom Analysis
The first signs of a leaf beetles infestation are small visible holes in leaves. Leaves then become discolored and dark beetle droppings can be seen. As the leaves turn yellow and brown, they will drop off the plant onto the ground. Some leaves will appear skeletonized with only the veins still remaining.
Infestation begins in spring, when the adult beetles emerge from the soil and lay their eggs on the leaves of plants. When these eggs hatch, the young nymphs start munching on the leaves as they grow up. Once leaf beetles are large and mature, they'll fall to the ground and pupate in the soil over winter before starting the cycle all over again.
Leaf beetles also eat holes in fruits and vegetables. These can be seen as small round holes that sometimes have a larger brown area surrounding them.
Solutions
For less serious cases:
- Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread.
To treat more serious infestations:
- Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions.
- Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Prevention
To prevent infestations of leaf beetles, follow these practices.
- Regularly check for beetles. To prevent large pest infestations, be proactive about frequently checking plants for pests and removing them quickly.
- Clear debris. Clear weeds and debris to remove areas where these beetles may overwinter and hide.
- Attract natural predators. Birds and other insects, such as wasps and ladybugs, are effective natural predators of leaf beetles. Encourage them to visit by including a diverse array of plants to provide habitat and food. Also, avoid applying broad-spectrum herbicides that can harm and kill beneficial insects.
- Plant aromatic herbs like mint, garlic, or rosemary, as these can repel leaf beetles.
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Shot hole disease
Bacterial perforation disease creates brown spots on the leaves which eventually dry up and fall away, leaving perforations in the leaf surface.
Overview
Shot hole disease (coryneum blight) most commonly affects mature trees, particularly fruit trees. The fungus can infect the buds, fruit, and leaves of the tree. It causes spots on the leaves that eventually die and drop out. This makes the leaves look tattered and affects the overall health of the tree. If the fruit is affected, it will result in cracks in the skin and generally make the fruit inedible.
The disease is very difficult to eliminate entirely but further infection can be prevented with good cultural practices and by removing diseased parts of the tree. Some of the more common fruit trees affected by this disease include plums, peaches, cherries, nectarines, apricot, and almonds.
Symptom Analysis
Small red spots appear on the leaves. These spots then become larger and turn purple with a white center. Finally, the spots drop out of the leaves altogether, leaving small round holes. These almost look like gunshot holes, hence the name of the disease.
As the disease progresses, more holes will form in the leaves with some joining together to make larger holes.
As the infection spreads to developing fruit, purple-red spots appear on the outer skin. Eventually, these spots will cause the skin to crack and some of the juice will ooze out.
Disease Cause
Shot hole disease is a fungal disease (Wilsonomyces**carpophilus) that primarily targets mature trees. The fungal spores are carried onto the tree through water-splashing and wind.
The disease thrives in wet conditions when there has been excessive rainfall. New growth in spring is particularly susceptible to this disease.
The fungal spores overwinter inside buds on the tree and also lesions on twigs.
Solutions
In the case of mild disease symptoms:
- Remove diseased leaves immediately. Also remove any foliage on the ground near the plants, including leaves without the disease. Take care not to touch healthy foliage during removal to avoid spreading. It is best to remove leaves in dry, cool weather.
When holes and spots are numerous, and leaves start to drop, take these actions immediately.
- Remove diseased leaves right away. Just like in mild cases, remove all foliage on the ground near the plant. Avoid touching non-diseased foliage, and only remove leaves when they are dry.
- Apply fungicide and bactericide. Apply a copper-based fungicide. Spray young leaves about once every week. It's best to apply these products in spring when damage is beginning. After mid-summer, they will have little benefit.
Prevention
Here are the best ways to prevent shot hole disease:
- Use drip irrigation. To stop the fungal spores from splashing onto the tree, use drip irrigation that directs water straight to the roots.
- Inspect trees when the leaves have dropped. Remove any dead or diseased branches that may have fungal spores in them. A good pruning will also open up the tree and encourage more airflow.
- Rake and keep dropped foliage clear. Raking leaves from around trees and shrubs regularly is one of the best ways to prevent shot hole disease and keep it at bay.
- Remove lower branches. This makes it harder for the fungal spores to be splashed up onto the vulnerable parts of the tree, and also increases airflow.
- Remove old and very diseased trees. Though shot hole disease can't be completely prevented, this can help remove the biggest disease vector. It can also create more space and help air circulation, which further prevents spread.
- Apply preventative chemical control. To prevent the disease from occurring in the spring, apply a fungicide in late winter just before bud swell.
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Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.
Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.
Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.
Solutions
If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Prevention
Unfortunately, there is no way to prevent plants from dying of “old age.” To help prolong their life, and put off symptoms of aged yellow and dry for as long as possible, take care of them by giving them enough water, fertilizing them appropriately, and making sure they get enough sunlight.
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Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Overview
Underwatering plants is one of the quickest ways to kill them. This is something that most gardeners are well aware of. Unfortunately, knowing exactly how much water a plant needs can be tricky, especially considering that underwatering and overwatering present similar symptoms in plants.
Therefore, it’s important to be vigilant and attentive to each plants’ individual needs.
Symptom Analysis
As mentioned earlier, overwatering and underwatering present similar symptoms in plants. These symptoms include poor growth, wilted leaves, defoliation, and brown leaf tips or margins. Ultimately, both underwatering and overwatering can lead to the death of a plant.
The easiest way to determine whether a plant has too much water or too little is to look at the leaves. If underwatering is the culprit, the leaves will look brown and crunchy, while if it’s overwatering, they will appear yellow or a pale green in color.
When this issue first begins, there may be no noticeable symptoms at all, particularly in hardy or drought-tolerant plants. However, they will begin to wilt once they start suffering from a lack of water. The edges of the plant’s leaves will become brown or curled. Soil pulling away from the edges of the planter is a telltale sign, or a crispy, brittle stem.
Prolonged underwatering can cause a plant’s growth to become stunted. The leaves might drop and the plant can be more susceptible to pest infestations, too.
Disease Cause
Underwatering is caused by, quite simply, not watering plants often or deeply enough. There is a heightened risk of underwatering if any of these situations apply:
- Extreme heat and dry weather (when growing outdoors)
- Grow lights or indoor lighting that is too bright or intense for the type of plant
- Using fast-draining growing media such as sand
Solutions
The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with.
Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock.
In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
Prevention
Always check the soil before watering. If the top inch of soil feels moist, though not wet, the watering is perfect. If it’s dry, water it immediately. If it feels soggy, you avoid watering until it dries out a bit more.
Also, make sure the lighting is sufficient for the species. Plants grow faster and need more water when there is intense light or lots of heat. Being aware of these conditions and modifying them, if possible, is a good way to prevent underwatering. Many container plants are potted in soil mixtures mean to be well-draining. Adding materials that retain moisture, like compost or peat moss, can also prevent these symptoms.
Other tips to prevent underwatering include:
- Choose pots with adequately-sized drainage holes
- Avoid warm temperatures
- Use large pots with additional soil (these take longer to dry out)
- Avoid terracotta pots, which lose water quickly
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Underwatering
A lack of water will cause the leaves to gradually turn yellow starting at the base of the branch while the entire plant appears to wilt.
Symptom Analysis
Your plant’s leaves are turning yellow due to underwatering, the oldest leaves turn yellow first. Leaves yellow from the edges towards the middle. Other signs of underwatering include the soil feeling very dry or pulling away from the edge of its pot.
Solutions
Your plant is very thirsty and needs water promptly.
- You can revive your plant by giving it water. The easiest technique is to slowly pour water into your plant’s soil so that the whole surface is moistened. If you pour the water too quickly, the water will flow directly through rather than diffusing throughout the soil. If your plant’s pot does not have drainage holes, do not give your plant more than about a third of the pot’s volume of water. If your plant’s pot does have drainage holes, you can add water slowly until the soil is thoroughly moistened and the water flows freely through the pot.
- If you trim off yellow leaves to improve the plant’s appearance, do not remove more than a third of the plant’s leaves. It may be better to wait until leaves have died and fallen off to remove them.
Prevention
- When you get a new plant, research its specific watering needs. Set reminders so that you remember to water your plants consistently. Not all plants are the same, so make sure to differentiate all of your plants in your watering schedule.
- You may wish to purchase a commercial soil water meter which has a long probe that you place near your plant’s roots. Be sure to check it frequently and water your plant when the soil water meter indicates that it needs watering.
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Distribution Map
Habitat
Roadsides, stream banks, canyons, chaparral
Map
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
More Info
Plant Type
Shrub, Tree
Flower Color
White
Pink
Bloom Time
Spring
Leaf Color
Green
Red
Yellow
Purple
Name story
Cherry plum
They are one of the first batches of trees to blossom in the spring, and they blossom earlier than cherry blossoms. However, they are always mistaken for cherry blossoms because both of their flowers look similar to each other. Hence, they are called cherry plum.
Purple leaf plum
Although it looks similar to the cherry blossom tree, it is actually easy to distinguish Prunus cerasifera from the cherry blossom tree because of its purple leaves. Furthermore, it can maintain this unique purple color feature from spring to autumn. As it is also a deciduous tree, it is called the purple leaf plum.
Symbolism
Happiness, positive energy, rebirth, the coming of spring
Usages
Garden Use
As one of the earliest flowering trees in Europe, cherry plum has found its way into gardens across the northern hemisphere (though it is mildly invasive in parts of Asia). Growers of the cherry plum prize its variety of foliage and flower colors, as well as the early bloom time. These trees are frequently used as specimen pieces, tree borders, and even occasionally as "living sculptures." It works well in cottage, city, and Japanese gardens, particularly when planted alongside herbs like mint, rosemary, and sage .
Scientific Classification
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